Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Upgrading Transfer Case

[Bobcat698]

Well, friend GAVE me the 271 so I think I'm going to be putting it in my '98. Does anyone know the low ratio in the 271?

The low ratio is the same as the 241DHD & DLD, 2. 72 to 1.

 

[TradedV-10foraCummins]

I have a DLD in my 96 5 speed, and a truck I worked on that was just like mine made a few weeks away later had a DHD with the 2 piece output shaft housing.

For the record both my manual trucks have the DLD-a 98 and my 2000 salvage truck.



Have problems with leakage... but that's another story.

Just to help clarify, all the 3500's had the DHD transfer case. It was an option on the 2500's, so that is why you will see both DLD and DHD on them.

 

[JGheen]

JGHeen I'd be interested in know if you had to mod the drive shafts after your installation weekend. Does auto/manual make any difference?

Got my transfer case in over the past weekend. The only thing I need to do is remove it to clearance the frame rail some as it touches just barely and really touches with any kind of engine rock. I will be needing an entirely new rear driveshaft as I am going to 1480 u-joints but not sure if the original stocker could have been used, pending I didn't go to the flange style output shaft instead of the slip yoke style. The front shaft is going to work great.



I'll get some pics posted tonite when I get home.



Joe

 

[NHays]

speedo

On pre 98 trucks, how do you fix the speedometer problem if you put in a 271.

 

[JGheen]

Here are the pics I promised. Notice in the second pic how the case is almost riding completely on the driver side frame rail. Gonna have to remove it again and cut a notch out of the frame to clearance it. Overall thats a NV271 case installed in a '98 3500.



Sorry Norm, not sure what the others did for their speedo being mine is in my rear axle.



Joe

 

[Bobcat698]

Here are the pics I promised. Notice in the second pic how the case is almost riding completely on the driver side frame rail. Gonna have to remove it again and cut a notch out of the frame to clearance it. Overall thats a NV271 case installed in a '98 3500.



Sorry Norm, not sure what the others did for their speedo being mine is in my rear axle.



Joe

The clearance issue must be a 5 speed thing. I can fit a finger between my tcase and frame.

 

[JGheen]

Thats right, your running an auto with you 271. I was thinking of your install when I got everything tight and was marking the area for cutting and wondering why yours didn't hit and mine did. I was thinking you had the same transmission.

It sucks it is so close to that factory frame hole and if it was only about 1-2" further back it would be perfect. I think if I had the NV5600 it would set it too far back to be right in that factory hole as well. Oh well, just gonna have to cut it and be careful of the factory weld right in front of it... .



Joe

 

[Bobcat698]

Good luck with that buddy!

 

[JAmos]

Is there any way that the mount between the transmission/trans case can be moved a little to the passenger side, moving/angling the drivetrain to the passenger side of the truck slightly to provide enough clearance? Not sure if this would cause any other problems. The clearance of the fan to the radiator should be checked. Drivelines and u joints shouldn't have any issues right?



Jordan

 

[JGheen]

Well, got my truck back on the road this past weekend. I removed the case and clearanced the inside of the frame rail by heating it up and hammering kind of a half moon shape in the rail to clear the case. But wish I knew that the case was going to be hitting the bottom of the cab and I would have cleananced for that as well. Everytime I hit a good bump and just from even the minor road bumps, the case is thunking against the cab(look in the first pick above where the red/silver factory ID stamp is). I can live with it and also am too lazy to remove it again, it should eventually just clearance itself. :-laf

Anyway, I wanted to ask Bobcat698 if his case was hitting the bottom of his cab as well, so is it? I tried PM'n him but his folder is full, so maybe I can get an answer here.

Other than that it runs great and ready to be real world tested after Xmas. Oo. Not sure if it is the size and weight of the new t-case but the whole drivetrain seems to move around and bounce a little more than before but then again I am thinking it is because I have been subjected to the smoothness of my new MegaCab and it's just me not being used to driving the old Beast in over 4 months. :-laf



Joe

 

[Bobcat698]

Anyway, I wanted to ask Bobcat698 if his case was hitting the bottom of his cab as well, so is it? I tried PM'n him but his folder is full, so maybe I can get an answer here.

Other than that it runs great and ready to be real world tested after Xmas. Oo. Not sure if it is the size and weight of the new t-case but the whole drivetrain seems to move around and bounce a little more than before but then again I am thinking it is because I have been subjected to the smoothness of my new MegaCab and it's just me not being used to driving the old Beast in over 4 months. :-laf



Joe

Joe, sorry about the inbox being full.

I too had the cab clearance problem. I only noticed it when I would build boost at a sled pull or when powerbraking the truck.

I spent about 1/2 hour prying between the cab floor and the transfer case and got enough clearance so that it doesn't do it anymore Yes, sounds redneck, but I wasn't about to tear out my whole drivetrain to fix a vibration when a large screwdriver would do the trick :-laf

 

[edmeyers]

I would like to know a little more about what you guys did with the drive shafts and cost of doing so.



on the rear is there a slip joint in the shaft if you do the flange mount on the 271?



why use a flange at the t-case instead of the slip yoke?



on the rearand front pumpkin dose the yoke come off and i new one bolt right on or do you have to set end play to install the 1480 and 1410 joints?



what do you do about the joint thing at the case for the front shaft?



what size shaft for the front and rear?



has anyone fixed there speedo and what did you use?



dose anyone have pic's of their modified shafts



thanks for the info

 

[JGheen]

I would like to know a little more about what you guys did with the drive shafts and cost of doing so.



on the rear is there a slip joint in the shaft if you do the flange mount on the 271?



why use a flange at the t-case instead of the slip yoke?



on the rearand front pumpkin dose the yoke come off and i new one bolt right on or do you have to set end play to install the 1480 and 1410 joints?



what do you do about the joint thing at the case for the front shaft?



what size shaft for the front and rear?



has anyone fixed there speedo and what did you use?



dose anyone have pic's of their modified shafts



thanks for the info

No slip between carrier and t-case needed.



I bought an entirely new rear driveshaft since I was upgrading to the 1480 u-joints and it wasn't cheap. Wish I was able to have time to upgrade the carrier to something larger than stock but we'll see how well the stock size carrier will work out after a few sled pulls.



I prefer to use a flange style yoke on the t-case to make it easier to remove the driveshaft and not having to pull out a slip everytime weakening the seal. Not to mention I got tired of having to replace the slip yoke seal. NOw it's just bolt and go.



Not sure what your asking on the yokes of the front and rear axles but replacing yokes is very simple. Remove pinion nut, remove yoke, install new seal(if prefered), install new larger yoke, tighten up pinion nut to proper torque.



What "joint thing" are you refering to??



My front shaft is from High Angle Driveline and has 1410s while the rear has 1480s now as stated above.



My speedo is in my rear axle so I didn't have to do anything.



I will get pics next time I get the truck back to the house. It is currently being stored at my uncle's house for the next week until I can get out to replace the clutch hydrolics.



Hope that helped you out some.



Joe

 

[edmeyers]

No slip between carrier and t-case needed.



I bought an entirely new rear driveshaft since I was upgrading to the 1480 u-joints and it wasn't cheap. Wish I was able to have time to upgrade the carrier to something larger than stock but we'll see how well the stock size carrier will work out after a few sled pulls.



I prefer to use a flange style yoke on the t-case to make it easier to remove the driveshaft and not having to pull out a slip everytime weakening the seal. Not to mention I got tired of having to replace the slip yoke seal. NOw it's just bolt and go.



Not sure what your asking on the yokes of the front and rear axles but replacing yokes is very simple. Remove pinion nut, remove yoke, install new seal(if prefered), install new larger yoke, tighten up pinion nut to proper torque.



What "joint thing" are you refering to??



My front shaft is from High Angle Driveline and has 1410s while the rear has 1480s now as stated above.



My speedo is in my rear axle so I didn't have to do anything.



I will get pics next time I get the truck back to the house. It is currently being stored at my uncle's house for the next week until I can get out to replace the clutch hydrolics.



Hope that helped you out some.



Joe

sorry i guess i should have said i have a reg. cab so i don't have a carrier bearing (1 piece shaft) that is why i was wondering about the slip joint in the shaft i mean the thing has got to be able to slide some where right? or if you use a 1 piece shaft do you have to use a slip yoke at the t-case?



will my my shaft be okay to use if i just had the 1480's put on (what size is the stock 1 piece shaft and wall thickness?



okay i understand the front and rear yokes now where did you get yours (part number if avaible) and the seals? sorry but i've learned the hard way the more info you can give the parts guy the less time he is confused



i guess it is called a cv the double u joint at the t-case for the front drive line. i just call High Angle but he didn't really give me a price said that 1350's would work and that 1410's would not be suitable for driving up and down the road. will the current shaft (front) work after the 271 conversion or will i have to lenghten it?





thank you for the info.



i am just trying to figure this all out before i tear it a part and find out that i will have get parts shipped in and be without a vechicle untill they arrive.

 

[LanceD]

my 95 has a tone ring in the rear axle, I know its for the ABS, but can it also be hooked up to run the speedometer somehow?

 

[JGheen]

sorry i guess i should have said i have a reg. cab so i don't have a carrier bearing (1 piece shaft) that is why i was wondering about the slip joint in the shaft i mean the thing has got to be able to slide some where right? or if you use a 1 piece shaft do you have to use a slip yoke at the t-case?



will my my shaft be okay to use if i just had the 1480's put on (what size is the stock 1 piece shaft and wall thickness?



okay i understand the front and rear yokes now where did you get yours (part number if avaible) and the seals? sorry but i've learned the hard way the more info you can give the parts guy the less time he is confused



i guess it is called a cv the double u joint at the t-case for the front drive line. i just call High Angle but he didn't really give me a price said that 1350's would work and that 1410's would not be suitable for driving up and down the road. will the current shaft (front) work after the 271 conversion or will i have to lenghten it?





thank you for the info.



i am just trying to figure this all out before i tear it a part and find out that i will have get parts shipped in and be without a vechicle untill they arrive.

No, you can use either the slip yoke at the t-case or have a flange installed on the t-case and build your new driveline with the slip on the shaft.



You can use your original shaft and have the ends cut off for the new 1480 yokes if you want to save money but it would be worth your while to have an entirely new driveshaft built for the larger yokes. I have no idea what the stock shaft size is or wall thickness.



Call Randy's Ring and Pinion in Washington they will have the axle yoke but they sent me to a place called Six States(I lost the phone number but Randy's RnP can help) for the companion flange yoke at the t-case.



I have no idea if your current shaft will work with the 271 case. It depends on a lot of things. Mine is a tad bit too short but it works fine and hasn't pulled out of the slip yet. I am sure Jesse @ High Angle Driveline was offering you 1350s cuz you have no lift or the power output you had told him. He offered me 1410s on my shaft due to my HP level and lift.



Joe

 

[JMalousek]

I just ordered the 271 with the bolt on flange and will be installing this in a 94 reg cab long box the way I see it I will have to have a shorter rear shaft does anyone know how much they had to shorten theirs after they put the 271 in? I am having a all new shaft built with 1480 joints.

 

[SRath]

So if I'm understanding all of this, the only hope for hooking up the speedo in a pre-98 is to find a '98-and-up rear axle to also swap? Even if you did, is the sender compatible with what the pre-98 speedo needs? Anyone try all of this?



If I were going to all that trouble and expense, I think I would look for a way to put in a NP205, even a divorced one. I like cast iron and gears!



If this is such a popular swap (or would be), I'm surprised some enterprising electronics whiz hasn't figured out an external pickup and sender setup to mount on the driveshaft like many of those aftermarket cruise control units use. How tough could that be? Better yet, an adjustable one to compensate for tire diameter changes! Even non-271 guys would like that! What exactly do the pre-98's have on the internal output shaft that could not be somehow mounted externally?



Just a thought...

 

[edmeyers]

i just went with the 241 from transfercasesexpress because of the speedo pickup didn't really want to try to figure out something. the case i got is a 241 ld but the guy said that it unlike the dodge 241 dld or dhd it has ball bearings that the shafts run in instead of oil journaled flat bearings and because of that it was stronger than a dhd and would last longer than a dld or a dhd he also said that if it were his truck that is the only thing he would use.



so far it is holding together i stayed with the stock shaft and joints but i had the whole rear shaft redone including new slip yoke and pinion yoke



i would like to get the front shaft done in the near future.

 

[tlgdiesel]

I am putting an np205 from a 1979 ford in mine advance adapters makes the adapter to hook to a 5pd. Im using some stuff from dakota digital to run the speedo.