2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Upper/Lower Ball Joints

[lstevens]

My 2001 2500HD HO Quad Cab SWB required new ball joints at 30640 miles along with a new track bar and left tie rod to pitman connection. This was discovered by my local dealer who has performed all service since new. At 37207 miles the dealer is recommending new tie rod ends AND another set of ball joints. An email to Chrysler questioning if this is common and is there a way to get longer life components resulted in a canned response but no answers. Anyone with ideas on increasing the life span of these parts or availability of parts with longer life expectation? Also, any clues on greaseable lower ball joints?

 

[rashwor]

I have heard...

I have heard that you can get aftermarket greasable ball joints (upper and lower) for the rams. I would check with someone like NAPA. If you can get the greasable ones, they are what you want.



My '92 Ram has over 240,000 miles on it and it came from the factory with greasable ball joints, and is still going on the originals. My '99 came with sealed ball joints and I hate it, but I really can't complain with 127,500+ miles on it and no problems... it will get the greasable ball joints when the originals go bad.



Good luck and sorry to hear about your troubles.

 

[radixr]

Grease your ball (joints).

I bought a lower ball joint a while back and, although it did not have a zerk fitting in it, a fitting was included so I just drilled the end (like others have suggested) opposite the ball and installed the zerk. I would like to drill my upper ball joints and front axle u-joints but I haven't screwed up the courage to do that yet.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Remember after replacing any front suspension part (except shocks) you should realign the front end.



As far as the front ball joints for 4WD - I have a 96 that I just replaced them on last weekend. Here in VA you can have 1/4" of play at the edge of the tire before HAVING to replace them - however - any play isn't good. Once you have play the wear will ACCELERATE!!!



Instead of a ball joint press you could also take the unit w/ the ball joints out and use a shop press - that is what I do. I made some adaptors out of 2 1/2" pipe.



Dealer wanted 1100 to do the ball joints.



I got the ball joints at CarQuest. Both are greasable.



part number CCH K8388T - 57. 64 for 2

part number CCH K8607T - 90. 02 for 2



Dan

 

[Jeff Knight]

The ball joints on the 01 are in the housing. There are no aftermarket joints at this time. The upper from the dealer is greasable and the lower is not. Jeff

 

[lstevens]

I lifted the front of my truck today to check the joints for looseness and look at the possibilty of drilling the lowers for a zerk fitting. Drilling looks quite challenging due to the length of the stud which I would expect to be hardened on the ball end at least. But, by using a 2' pry bar between the spindle and joint housing of the axle end the lower joints do not move at all in any direction. The top ones do not move at all left-right-front-back but they can be pulled down a very small amount. Less than a 1/32" using lots of pressure. And the top one is the greasable one! I am wondering if this is typical and that the joints are actually OK? After all they are less than 7000 road miles new.

 

[24VChev]

somthing is not right!

If you only have 7000 miles on a "new" set of ball joints and they are shot I would say the dealer should replace them under the parts warranty! I would take the truck to another shop, one that has a alignment rack and have them check out the front end!