Used motor???

[Moab4x4]

I know it's always a gamble, but I'm looking at a used motor, ~ 170k. 91. 5 intercooled, auto. Here is what makes me a little nervous and I was looking for any experience or ideas with this. The engine "ran fine" when pulled from the original truck, but wasn't making much power due to a swiss cheese IC. Injector #6 is leaking fuel onto the outside of the engine.

Am I being paranoid in thinking that maybe with low/no boost, higher EGT may have scuffed #6 and that could cause injector failure that would make it leak externally??



I am just looking at alternatives to the rebuild that I don't have time for right now with my toasty motor. (maybe this is a once bitten twice shy thing)

But on the other hand, if I end up with another 5. 9 + transmission I could rebuild one for my old Willys wagon.



What could I give for a 5. 9 core + 518 auto and not be too hurt by the unknowns? Thanks for any ideas.

 

[JLEONARD]

I'm not sure that what you described would lead me to the same conclusion.

Have you done any compression testing or blowby testing to prove/disprove your suspicions?

You could also pull the head and take a peek.

Jay

 

[1stgen4evr]

Just my thoughts. I bought a truck (89) with an engine that required rebuild. It had scuffed #6 cylinder. When I got into pricing parts etc, I decided to replace the engine. Changing the engine on our trucks is quite a chore. When all was said and done, I wish I never saw the truck. It is fine now but had I been more careful in looking over the condition of the engine, I am sure I would not have bought it.



My advise is, hear the engine run and let it warm up so as to see the blow by at the crank case vent. This is going to require that you have a test bed to run the engine. You do not want to get the engine in the truck and find that it has to be rebuilt. In fact you don't want to buy a scuffed engine. , It will have circulated metalic debris through the entire engine.



I have bought two trucks for one thousand each that have good engines. Or had good engines. I have used them for other things. I would seriously consider a 'parts truck' which has salt rot or farm rot and an excellent engine and transmission. Typicall, you can drive these vehicles and know what you are getting. I have heard the 'ran fine story' more than once and have found it to be highly UNreliable.



If the engine was known to be low power, then I say that it was something more than the intercooler because in fact these engines will make good power WITHOUT an intercooler.



So in the end it is as you said, a gamble. Unless I could see some better indication that the engine would perform without a rebuild, I would simply find another engine. Or parts truck as I mentioned.



James

 

[JLEONARD]

In fact you don't want to buy a scuffed engine. , It will have circulated metalic debris through the entire engine.

I know several people who have rebuilt 6bta Cummins marine engines that had scuffed cylinders. In all cases the rebuilds were 100% successful and had great longevity. The scuffed cylinders were either sleeved or bored oversize.

Those are authorized repair methods per cummins.

Jay

 

[bgilbert]

Well said James. Ken do what James said, find yourself a runner/beater. At least you'll be able to drive the truck. Pass on the 'ran fine bs'.

 

[boatpuller]

If the engine was known to be low power, then I say that it was something more than the intercooler because in fact these engines will make good power WITHOUT an intercooler.



James

These engines will make good power without an intercooler, but they won't make good power without a sealed path from the turbo output to the intake, whether through an intercooler or not a boost leak will give you low power. A swissed cheesed intercooler with definately give you low power.



I do agree with Jay that I wouldn't come to the conclusion of a scuffed cylinder from what you described unless there is more to the story than we have been told, I would try to do a leakdown test if you are worried about the condition of that cylinder, maybe even pull that injector and find some one with a borescope that would look in that cylinder for you. I would think that if the intercooler was swiss cheese and the fuel line to or from an injector was leaking there could be the cause for low power.

Also if you are thinking that part of the piston has contacted the injector to cause it to leak externally then just pull that injector and look at it, you'll know if something hit it??? I'm still not quite understanding how you are getting to a scored cylinder from what you are describing?????



Caleb

 

[Philip]

Check around the local auto shops and find a mechanic with a bore scope. Then pull the injectors and have him look into the cylinders to see what the condition is for you.

 

[TKingsbury]

Way back when, I picked up a "ran great, but the car got wrecked" engine. It was a slant 6 destined for my Valiant. I put it in and found it had a dead miss. No compression on #4, a hole the size of a quarter right in the center of the piston . Long story short, I put a piston out of my old engine in it and let'er fly. Lesson: if you want an engine to just stick in something and be useable, hear it run first.

Travis. .

 

[1stgen4evr]

Jay is absolutely correct in that these engines are TOTALLY rebuildable. We buy and build several every year and they range from Lookers (hole in the side that you can look through and see the problem) to "run some injector cleaner through them and let her rip". And we send these engines off with the expectation that we have to warrenty any problem. And every one is a deal at the right price. I just have gotten to the point that I don't like the work that goes with a scuffed engine. Even so, we do one or two every year that is a total rebuild.



Just know what you are getting before you plunk the money down.



James

 

[Moab4x4]

The engine is bolted to the transmission sitting on a garage floor in another town, so starting it isn't an option. Opening it up would be a good although not too practical of an idea for me right now. It sounds like I should just pass unless I get a good enough deal to consider it a core. I'm glad my thoughts on a scuffed cylinder are probably completly without merit however. If I get a good enough deal, I will probably get it and plan on a rebuild, and if it doesn't need one I'll just come out lucky.

Thanks for the opinions,

 

[bgilbert]

Don't worry, I'm sure the bid will surpass your 'consider it a core' price:-laf. .

 

[DieselBuzz]

I dropped my dowel pin at 75mph it shattered the oil pump gear. The #6 got scored badly and I limped 10 miles home (it would still run with no power). See if you can pull the timing gear cover and check the KDP.

 

[Otis Calhoun]

I dont know much about the CTD. I did however own a 96 internation 9400 with a 430 detriot. It ran fine on the test drive and I told the dealer I needed to have it dynoed. On the dyno rack under heavy load after about 10 min it started to push water out the Rad cap... Blown head gasket. It only showed itself under load. I was able to beat the dealer up on price quite a bit but still had the motor rebuilt. So even though they may sound fine some motors dont hickup until they are hot and under load. Good luck Otis