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Used TT Recommendations

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If you are handy, look at a clean vintage (late 90s and prior) Holiday Rambler Alumalite. My 1996 27 footer is rock solid trailer featuring an aluminum roof, aluminum framing, aluminum exterior walls, front and rear fiberglass caps, a solid fiberglass shower (most showers are plastic) and a high quality fit and finish. The reason I say handy is it will probably need a remodel which is not overly expensive but can take time. I bought mine for $4400 in great shape and put a lot less than a thousand in new materials into it to bring it up to date.
 
Starcraft worth looking at? 09 Star Stream 28'(waiting on model#) to be specific, does the rounded nose and back help any with aerodynamics?
 
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This is a very important point and I'd just like to add a little to this for the OP. Many manufacturers will install axles on a unit that are not actually rated to handle the full loaded GVWR or the trailer. For example, a trailer with a GVWR of 5500# will be delivered with 2 2500# axles, with the manufacturer assuming that remainder of the weight to be carried as tongue weight. We are seeing quite a few hub failures and bent axles with trailers equipped that way. It is my personal belief that the axle ratings should at least meet if not exceed the trailers GVWR. So for that same 5500# GVWR trailer, it should be equipped with 2 3500# axles instead. Real world reliability for a unit that is actually being towed places on a regular basis will be far better if the unit is somewhat overbuilt.

To add to the above statement...

Don’t let the undersize axle issue scare you if everything else suits you.
New axles from Dexter are inexpensive. Stay with the same bearing combination so you can reuse your hubs and brake assemblies if they are in good shape.

Mine had 4400 lb axles under it, bought it when it was one year old and the rear axle was bent already.

My theory is that many get bent right on the dealer lot when they pick the nose of the trailer wasaaay up with a forklift which forces the rear axle to take the entire load after the equalizer goes full travel. Then they drag the trailer in a tight circle..

So upgraded to a pair of brand new Dexter 6000 lb axles with the same bearing combination.
A few years after that I replaced the four leaf springs with five leaf springs.
Nothing bends now...plus it pulls 100% better than when I bought it..
 
We looked at an '02 Keystone Montana 305FKS this evening. Where could I find the factory specs on it at? Googled and didn't get alot. Little longer than what I said previously but didn't seem overly large when I stood beside it. 4400 lb axles, 15" wheels/tires.
 
Thanks, I came across that but the Mountaineer part threw me off. I've found a few spec sheets different places that vary some but says 31' and around 97-9800 GVWR. I'd keep it loaded on the light end until I could upgrade axles.
 
20-28' range... Any specific reason you want to stay in this size range? I will give you one reason and that is the older National Parks and other government run campgrounds that were built long ago for smaller RV lengths. For example The Navajo National Monument has a 28' max length. This is from the RV's bumper to tip of the hitch NOT interior size. North Rim Grand Canyon is a popular spot with reservations months out. Although 40' spots are available (fill up fast) the smaller spots 27' on down are open more often to reserve. IMO the largest RV for these old campgrounds is 27' and roughly a 25' interior. Sure with skill you can go larger in these small parks, but, that becomes work not fun. Trying to stay an extra day with the campground host looking at the only open spot to do so and it's too small for your rig ... been there and didn't stay another day.

The smaller the RV in length the more spots are open. It is difficult to keep the size down on a RV and check all the boxes. There are a few small campgrounds that 27' is simply too big for. Going from tent camping to an RV should be easier to stay small and be able to reach those smaller less popular campgrounds.

You can always upgrade your RV size later as the larger RV's are more common in the for sale ads IMO. Small RV's are not so common.

You can rip out the RV Queen and put a full size queen in if they left you the room to do so. Measure before you buy.

I do own an Arctic Fox 27-5L 5th wheel that is 27'. Later years Northwoods MFG made wider and longer. Last year I had a $700 repair to a common flex crack and ddelamination below the bedroom slide. Thus the "dissolves in water" sides they put on all RV's is my only gripe and affects all but the shiny metal tin cans, aluminum siding (making a comeback in new RV trailers BTW), or fiberglass RV's. Fiberglass like: Scamp, Bigfoot, Casita.

If you see any blisters, bubbles, or wavy outside walls it has delamination. Expensive to have fixed and hurts the value. Resale value = scrap depending on how bad it is. Don't walk: RUN away!

With deep discounts offered you may look into a "new" RV esp in the smaller size. Be warned the build quality of some of them is downright disgusting. We have blown the roof clean off a couple new RV's while delivering them to the dealer. Some ARE built better than others even with the same name on the appliances in them.
 
20-28' range... Any specific reason you want to stay in this size range? I will give you one reason and that is the older National Parks and other government run campgrounds that were built long ago for smaller RV lengths. For example The Navajo National Monument has a 28' max length. This is from the RV's bumper to tip of the hitch NOT interior size. North Rim Grand Canyon is a popular spot with reservations months out. Although 40' spots are available (fill up fast) the smaller spots 27' on down are open more often to reserve. IMO the largest RV for these old campgrounds is 27' and roughly a 25' interior. Sure with skill you can go larger in these small parks, but, that becomes work not fun. Trying to stay an extra day with the campground host looking at the only open spot to do so and it's too small for your rig ... been there and didn't stay another day.

The smaller the RV in length the more spots are open. It is difficult to keep the size down on a RV and check all the boxes. There are a few small campgrounds that 27' is simply too big for. Going from tent camping to an RV should be easier to stay small and be able to reach those smaller less popular campgrounds.

You can always upgrade your RV size later as the larger RV's are more common in the for sale ads IMO. Small RV's are not so common.

You can rip out the RV Queen and put a full size queen in if they left you the room to do so. Measure before you buy.

I do own an Arctic Fox 27-5L 5th wheel that is 27'. Later years Northwoods MFG made wider and longer. Last year I had a $700 repair to a common flex crack and ddelamination below the bedroom slide. Thus the "dissolves in water" sides they put on all RV's is my only gripe and affects all but the shiny metal tin cans, aluminum siding (making a comeback in new RV trailers BTW), or fiberglass RV's. Fiberglass like: Scamp, Bigfoot, Casita.

If you see any blisters, bubbles, or wavy outside walls it has delamination. Expensive to have fixed and hurts the value. Resale value = scrap depending on how bad it is. Don't walk: RUN away!

With deep discounts offered you may look into a "new" RV esp in the smaller size. Be warned the build quality of some of them is downright disgusting. We have blown the roof clean off a couple new RV's while delivering them to the dealer. Some ARE built better than others even with the same name on the appliances in them.


I didn't specify - but that's exactly the reason why. I love the smaller back country campgrounds - and some of them are pretty tight. I am going to make a list of site lengths avail at some of my favorite campsites, and then some across the country we may potentially visit in the future.
Thanks for all the great info and advice so far. A lot I've already been thinking about, some not so much.
 
Here is what we did with a camp queen a few rigs back. I made a filler to put at the head of the bed. At night we slid the mattress down 6" and put the filling in. During the day it was on top of the mattress and the pillows "hid" it, allowing more room to walk around the bed and make it. Did this after a suggestion for a RV salesman. Worked out well. I sewed a cover for the foam filler.
 
Here is what we did with a camp queen a few rigs back. I made a filler to put at the head of the bed. At night we slid the mattress down 6" and put the filling in. During the day it was on top of the mattress and the pillows "hid" it, allowing more room to walk around the bed and make it. Did this after a suggestion for a RV salesman. Worked out well. I sewed a cover for the foam filler.

Good idea sir...
 
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I really like the style of the Starcraft Star Streams. Have a couple SS24QB's local I could check out. Anything specific to that model to be wary of? I think the 24 has 14" wheels though. Hard to upgrade to 15"?
 
Sorry if I missed it, any particular reason to not include a 5er in your searches? I think they could have some advantages if you are looking to stay small, shorter overall length than a TT at a specified length, better maneuverability in tight spaces. They do tend to be taller though. And you would have to buy a hitch which is an added expense. They aren't as common but there are some shorter units out there...may be worth keeping an eye out for if not opposed to one. I've been able to fit our 28ft in some reasonably smaller spaces.
 
I've thought about it a little. There are some decent prices on used 5ers. Just rather stay away from it for now. May try and install factory puck system if we ever want to upgrade, besides where would I put kayaks??:D
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