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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Valve adjust question...stupid

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Caliper Bolt

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 96 12valve interminetly loping at idle

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I have replaced my head gasket and my head bolts seem fine, so I plan to re-use them. You can see the mods on my sig, nothing major. Is 90 FT LBS what I should be torquing them to? Lots of different numbers when you do a search:confused:.

Stupid question #2:

Are the cylinder numbers on the 99 24V just numbered from front to back with cylinder #1 at the front and #6 at the rear of the block? This sounds stupid, but without a manual, nobody seems to mention it in any of the threads I found.

I have also found two different numbers for the rocker arm retaining bolts, 18 FT LBS and 27 FT LBS. Which one is it? Really!



Thanks guys, sometimes too much info is worse than none at all!!!!:D
 
My 2001 FSM has:
Head bolts:
step 1: 59 ft-lbs
step 2: 77
step 3: verify 77
step 4: rotate all bolts 1/4 turn

Cylinders are numbered front to rear, 1 to 6
Firing order is 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

Rocker arm bolts are tightened to 27 ft-lbs.

edit: the head gasket should come with a cap screw stretch guage to check the length. The maximum bolt length is 5. 200" (from the bottom of the cap to the end of the bolt).
 
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Thanks!

Thanks Road Dog. I apprecaite the assist. I may do a re-torque as well after I gently run the truck for a bit. A lot of threads mention re-torquing and it seems like a sound practice. Thanks again!!:D
 
Henry,

Any question you don't know the answer to is NOT stupid. That is why the people on this TDR roundtable are here. We all wortk together
 
You guys are da best

I appreciate that and won't debate whether or not there is such thing as a "stupid" question! Thanks! :D
 
I know that head bolts are expensive, but I would suggest replacing them even within spec. That extra 1/4" turn is called yield to torque and puts an extra stress on them to help hold the head in place. Anyone who has broken bolts or had one come loose that is supposed to be tight understands that sometimes the money saved really isn't saved after all.

I am planning on pulling my valve cover and checking clearances and head bolt torque as I haven't done so since the rebuild last year and 30k miles ago. I also am hoping to find a slight oil leak that's plauged me for the whole year. There's not much actually leaking but I am having to add a qt. or so every few 4-5k miles. I'll go ahead and check the valve seals while I'm in there.
 
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