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Valve Adjustment '05

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OK I've looked every where for my Issue 51 of TDR. Can't find it anywhere. Does anyone have the procedure written down that they could E-mail me or post on here. I have the valve adjustment specs. but not the procedure.

I know that you start on TDC on #1 and adjust certain valves... . but not sure exactly witch ones in order.

Any help would be appreciated. Brian
 
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements
AND adjustments should only be performed
when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60° C (140° F).
The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0. 152 mm ( 0. 006 in. )
MIN.
0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )
MIN.
0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )
MAX.
0. 762 mm (0. 030 in. )
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0. 254 mm (0. 010 in. )
² EXHAUST 0. 508 mm (0. 020 in. ) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
 
Thanks ENafziger,

we are going to do it this weekend and I couldn't find my book. Looks like it's time to do some spring cleaning around here. Thanks again, Brian
 
I have 90K on my 2003. 5 HO diesel. No problems yet, but when should I take a look at the valve adjustment.
 
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jwilliams3,



You mentioned to "Turbo Bob" that he would benefit from a valve job (adjustment), now.



I have an '03, HO with about 58,000 miles, also. I understand the valves do not need much adjustment like older engines. Could you please tell me what benefit we would realize by doing an adjustment? At 58,000 miles, could I use an adjustment?



Thanks.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
At 58,000 miles, could I use an adjustment?

I've heard of more than one person who checked their valve lash with very few miles on the truck (<10,000), and found several out of spec.

For no more trouble than it is, it's definately worth doing no matter how many miles are on the truck, especially if you're not sure if it's ever been done.

--Eric
 
Sorry to add to an old post...

I have saved this in my favorites because I thought that I would need it at 100K. 215K now and haven't adjusted valves yet. Oil change every 5,000 with rotella T and engine isn't sounding any different than new. Am I making a mistake by not adjusting?
 
Over 100K, do it, and every 100K after. I did adjust my valves at the 100K mark, 2 out of the 24 valves were spot on, the others were loose but within spec. I adjust mine at . 010 IN & . 020 EX. It was a PITA, took time and effort, but well worth getting it done right. I even rotated the engine over a couple of times to double check the numbers after adjusting, some were off + or - a thou or two, so I readjusted them. Got 24 valves spot on, the noise was the dramatic difference, very little engine noise after the adjustment.

I have seen in other engines, if too loose of valve adjustment, what happens is that the pushrods hammers back and forth causing all kinds of wear.
 
I did mine at around 60k just because is was easy, free and I was hoping to get a tiny fuel efficiency increase. Some of them were close but nothing was out of spec but I adjusted them all anyway so that they would be perfect. Unfortunately it didn't make any difference at all to FE or anything else.
 
I did mine at around 180K miles. First time valve cover ever off and found every single intake the same as well as exhaust the same. All were 3thou loose of min spec. First time I ever saw clearance as even on an engine.



I would do it at 100K for piece of mind.
 
I have seen in other engines, if too loose of valve adjustment, what happens is that the pushrods hammers back and forth causing all kinds of wear.

Too tight can be as big a problem, the less time the valve sets on the seat, the less heat gets dissipated. Valves almost always gets tighter with wear, folks need to keep that in mind while adjusting...
 
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A great thread! My 03 has almost 180,000 miles on her and has never been apart. I was getting a little concerned as she seems to be a little more noisy, but, from what I take from this, there is no reason to drop everything and adjust them. I think I should pick up a baring tool and plan on doing the job at the next convenient time when I am working on the truck.

Now... On to a clutch...

Blake
 
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