Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Valve Adjustment Idiot Proof?

[Sasquatch]

Our local Dodge dealership, Marietta Dodge, (Atlanta) has always done a great job with my rig. Never felt ripped off, and never had an issue with their honesty. Just had my upper and lower ball joints replaced, both sides, (120,000 miles) for $840. 00, labor and materials.



They warranty their work, effectively, for a year and assume responsibility for any problems that may develop.



My question is this: I've never done a valve adjustment before, because I've always been worried that I'd screw something up. People who've done this procedure say it's easy. The dealership did the first one at 60,000 miles and charged me $160. Now, 60,000 miles later, the price is $180. 00



First, I'd like to hear opinions on whether that's a reasonable price for the work entailed, and, second, whether doing the valves is really a job that anyone can do very easily.



I've replaced (rebuilt) the starter motor and done all the routine maintenance jobs on this truck, but never cracked the valve covers before.



My other question relates to what a valve adjustment actually does for the truck: My truck's running great, but seems just a little noisier than it used to. Will a valve adjustment increase performance, fuel economy, horsepower, etc. ? What are the arguments for "leaving well enough alone," which is the advice that I've gotten from folks vis a vis changing the fluid in the rear differential, for instance. I changed the rear fluid at 60,000 (but not since) so it'd probably due, too.



Thanks

 

[ndurbin]

The trick to vavle adjustments is getting them set right, not to tight or to loose. Once ya get the right "feel" for it, it's a peice of cake.



I'd see if maybe some other member in your area has done it and could help you out the first time.



Nathan

 

[bmoeller]

The trick to vavle adjustments is getting them set right, not to tight or to loose. Once ya get the right "feel" for it, it's a peice of cake.

Yep. Just takes a little time.

 

[radixr]

Adjust the valves yourself!!

Valve adjustment is not that hard and is most definately worthwhile doing. Letting it go too long will degrade engine performance and increase wear on the valvetrain. TDR Issue #29 has a detailed how-to procedure and if you carefully follow it, you will be fine. Allow yourself plenty of time so you aren't rushed. You will need new seals for the valve cover cap screws and perhaps valve cover gaskets (although the valve cover gaskets can be reused in most cases). I used a silicone gasket maker instead of o-rings for the valve cover cap screws and they have not leaked.



You can do it! Oo. Oo.

 

[Sasquatch]

radixr:



Thanks, pal, for your encouragement, and everyone else's, too. I don't know why I've been so reluctant to tackle this, but I've been a little leery of screwing something up. If the price were higher, it'd be a slam dunk. It's one of those deals where I'm thinking, "I can save the $180. 00, but if I mess it up -- burn up a valve or worse -- I'm going to regret this big time. "



I need to get this done, one way or the other, before I take a long road trip to New England (Thanksgiving) so I need to get off the dime, soon. Solid rain forecast for next week, and I'll have to do this outside (no garage), so that's my "excuse" until I can work up the nerve.



I've got all the back issues of the TDR, so I'll read up on the procedure. I also have the tool kit (from Cummins) that's used to turn the engine over (finding TDC) etc. , but haven't done the timing pin procedure yet, either. That's probably an even more ambitious project.



Thanks for your response, all of you.

 

[biggy238]

Remember you've got an access port through the cowl to get down to the rear valve cover.

I swapped my valve cover gaskets when I bought my truck because of leaks in 4 of the 6. Took me a good hour to put the back cover on because of my ignorance.

 

[LindseyD]

A couple of tricks you may want to try. When you are trying to find TDC with the timing pin, take it all the way out and use your little finger to feel the hole go by, then put the pin in and slowly bar the engine to let it drop. Sometimes the pin is finnicky about dropping in and makes it hard to find. The other reason is if your buddy is barring too enthusiasticly, you can shear the pin off before you know it. Once you have the engine @ TDC mark the balancer so you won't need to use the pin the next time. It is very true that using feeler gauges is a feel thing. You can get "go-nogo gauges ti help. These are a feeler gauge that is stepped, the thickness you want and the next size up. You can also use two gauges, . 010 and . 011 to do the same thing.

 

[SRehberg]

I adjusted my valves with no trouble, but you have my interest in the "access port in the cowl". I had to work under the cowl to adjust # 5 & 6, not bad, but no fun either. Am I missing something?



Sasquatch, it is a simple job and takes a very short time, and the benefits are well worth the effort. Rear axle service: I just had to have my Dana 70 rear bearings (carriers went) at 51,000 miles; they were really chewed up. Abused, no. Oil: Redline synthetic 75-140. The rear end shop said two things that made sense. One, synthetic is to slippery in most cases for limited slip rears and advised against it, even though Dodge recommends it for heavy loads. Two, they suggest using 75-140 dino oil such as Valvoline with the additive and changing the oil every 15,000 miles or yearly, whichever occurs first. I wasn't impressed with the life of the rear the other way, so will try their suggestion, just my 2 cents.

 

[ndurbin]

The only "access ports in the cowl" that I can think of is for being able to pull the #5 and #6 push rods. Snap-on makes a special tool for adjusting the valves but I don't like it very much, it will fit back under the cowl for #6.



Nathan

 

[Joe G.]

I use the valve overlap method to find TDC for valve adjusting. Turn the engine so that the valves on #1 are both loose and the valves on #6 are both tight. That is close enough to TCD on #1 to adjust the valves. Then turn the engine until #6 is at TDC for the rest of the valves. Look at this page: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html to see which valves can be adjusted with #1 at TDC and with #6 at TDC. I use a small dial indicator instead of feeler gages. The feeler gages work fine. The dial indicator is more accurate. I lay a piece of plywood on the engine so it's not quite so bad adjusting #5 and #6.

 

[biggy238]

Maybe I just misunderstood what was meant by the access ports. If thats it, WTF was DC thinking when they threw that engine in and said adjust the valves every 60,000?

 

[ndurbin]

People who design them don't have to work on them. Thats usually how crap like having #6 buried under the cowl happens.

 

[DMcClenaghan]

I think it's good to learn to adjust valves yourself or provide a skilled buddy with some BBQ (And beers after) in exchange for doing it. After having the dealer do them once, I did them and was thinking there is NO WAY the dealer bothered to slither way back there with a snorkel to do 5 & 6, if they even did the easy ones. Mine is due now, and I will use Joe G's TDC trick since my TDC pin can only be operated by somebody with fetus sized hands.

Thanks!

 

[ndurbin]

Trick I found to make it alil more comfortable is to use an old couch or seat cushion and lay it over the front of the engine. Keeps the hood latch and other things from poking at you when your reaching back to do #5 & #6.



Nathan

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Yeah,it is kinda hard to get back there to 5 and 6,but not THAT bad for something you do every 2 or 3 years. C'mon guys... I'm just glad the engineers DID fit the Cummins into the Ram. It wasn't easy. I love looking under my hood and seeing some elbow room in there. Ever look at a 6. 0 or a Duramax?It ain't pretty. I'll take that little ole 6 cylinder any day.

 

[JGheen]

Lash effect fuel mileage?

I do my adjustment about every other year or when I think it is time to check it. But usually I have found that when I notice my fuel mileage seems to be getting crappy, I adjust the lash and it goes back to a normal consumption amount. So my question is, can lash effect fuel mileage and have you guys had the same experience of this as I have, adjust them and fuel mileage is back up?

Also, do you adjust them more or less as the engine life goes up, I can't remember?





Thanks guys, Joe

 

[MHalloran]

Hey Sas, Use the explained "voodoo" technique in issue 29. (it is in 29, right?) by turning the engine backwards via the alternator to find TDC. I was leary of this at first until I tried it. It does work! With a couple full revolutions of the engine and a watchful eye you'll see how easy TDC is found. No barring tool or screwing with the timing pin needed. Good Luck!!

 

[dodge cummins]

anybody near new jersey that can show me how to adjust my valves on my 96 dodge? i am kinda new to this.

 

[biggy238]

Fuel Mileage

JGHeen



I can't attest personally, but most of the other lash adjustment posts i've read have atleast one person claiming 1-2 mpg claimed back.

The reasoning is that a loose rocker doesn't respond right when the camshaft meets its lifting profile so it won't have the same lift duration as a tight rocker would. Also, the loose rocker requiers slightly more lift to take up the slack, or conversly, the valve can't open as far because the lift was taken up by the slack before the valve.

Most of us compensate for the poor performance with the right foot.



I posted a few months ago because I could hear my valves. I think i'm gonna get to the adjust tomorrow.

 

[JGheen]

Thanks biggy,



I had noticed before the milegae going down somewhat was caused by the lash being to big, I adjusted it and the mileage seemed to come back up. It is down a bit right now and it is probably time to check them. Gonna do it tomorrow moring while the engine is ice cold.