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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Valve adjustment

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) wooter

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) LIft pump precautions

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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to have my valves adjusted and wondered if any mechanic is competant for the job or do I need to take it to a diesel shop? I did a search and found that it's pretty easy so I would think that most mechaincs would be able to accomplish this. Also, whats the trick to the rear bolt on the valve cover? Anything else? Thanks for any feedback.
 
I would think any competant mechanic would be capable of doing it. I for one only want Cummins NW adjusting my babies valves. Theres no trick to the valve cover. It's just kinda tight for access.



Good Luck!

Clay
 
I'm currently looking for a shop in the central Virginia area for the same thing. Truck just recently turned 100,000 and I'd like to get those valves adjusted.



Anyone know of a good diesel shop in central VA?
 
Here's the skinny I have collected on adjusting valves:



ISB Valve Adjustment



TOOLS NEEDED

Big channel lock for timing cover

Small mirror for viewing timing marks more easily

22mm or 7/8 socket, w long-handled ratchet, for turning engine via alternator

15mm ratchet wrench or socket, for removing valve cover

9/16 wrench (longish box-end works well), for adjuster nuts

5 mm hex key, for adjusters

Feeler gauges



Steve St. Laurent:

I finally was able to get around to adjusting my valves since I have 100,000 miles on the truck. Here's what I found - intake valves were from . 012-. 015 (optimum is . 010 (. 25mm) - spec is from . 006-. 015) and exhaust valves were . 021-. 024 (optimum is . 020 (. 51mm) - spec is from . 015-. 030). I was blown away that they were still within spec after 100,000 miles - and I haven't been exactly easy on the engine. I set mine slightly tight at . 008 (. 20 mm) on the intake and . 018 (. 46mm) on the exhaust. A note to anyone adjusting theirs - there is a lot of play in the Y from the camshaft to the valves on the 24v engine. I adjusted mine and then cranked the engine over and then rechecked them - it took about 6 times of adjusting them before the numbers were consistent on the next rev (I've adjusted TONS of valve trains over the years BTW). I continued to adjust them until I was able to get a consistent reading for 2 revolutions after I adjusted them.



LSMITH:

I have played with settings all over the map and found with my combo . 007 (. 178mm) and . 016 (. 406mm) is the right spot, it frees up the top end tremendously. . 012 (. 305mm) and . 025 (. 635mm) has great low end



Chad Sheets:

Back all the adjustment nuts off on all rockers, then run them down with your fingers until they touch (you will only be able to run down the rockers with no tension on them... the ones with tension will have to wait their turn on the next round when you rotate the engine 360 degrees. Zero the gauge out and adjust for ever how many mm or whatever measurement you want to use.



1. Put cyl #1 on TDC by using the TDC mark behind the crank case breather on the front of the engine. You will have to remove the breather (if it's an automatic, or the timing cover if manual)... I believe it unscrews. You will see "TDC" stamped at 12 o'clock inside the case and a mark on the fuel pump timing gear. Put that mark on the 12 o'clock TDC position.



2. Remove the valve cover, and mark the following INTAKE valves with a paint marker, 1,2,4.



3. Now mark EXHAUST valves 1,3,5. with the paint marker. You should have 6 rockers marked now.



4. Adjust the INTAKE valves somewhere between . 15mm and . 38mm. , I shoot for the middle of the road . 25mm. (per LSMITH - . 20mm)



5. Adjust the EXHAUST valves now between . 38mm and . 76mm. , again I shoot for middle of the road about . 57mm. (per LSMITH - . 40mm)



6. Give all the rockers a good wiggle before removing the gauge to make sure all the play is out of them.



NOW ROLL THE ENGINE OVER 360 DEGREES (180 degrees on the timing mark) AND ADJUST THE 6 ROCKERS NOT PAINTED.





It's not difficult, especially if you've ever adjusted valves before. I've done mine 4 or 5 times now. I don't bother with the paint. I write down where they are when I first measure them, and what I adjust them to. After the first couple of times, they haven't changed much.
 
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Should the engine be warmed up first ? Or not

And do I need to replace the valve cover bolt washers seals to ,I got a new valve cover gasket from cummins but forgot to ask for the bolt seals. I just got my new cummins valve cover off Ebay,so this would be a good time to adj. valves since i"m at 95. 000.

Thanks Walt

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Truck Profile

98. 5 Ram 3500 4x4 sport,Auto trans,3. 54's autometer,sport comp pyro,trans,boost,electric fuel press. w/snubber,warning light/chime. edge comp drag box,2nd VP-44 inj. pump,dual fltr. amsoil. allum trans pan, Bilstien shocks,westin bars,push bar,custom 5" exhaust, BHAF, silencer ring fell out
 
Valves should be adjusted stone cold and you don't have to replace any gaskets at all when you do it. The valve cover gasket as well as the bolt gaskets are all reusable. That valve cover gasket is an expensive sucker!!
 
Thanks for your help guys

It wasn't all that hard after all,none were out more than . 006 after 100,000 miles. But it sure got quiet in the cab,Now I just hear the turbo music.
 
hey guys, my 01 has about 59,000 miles on it does the valves need to be adjusted? a buddy of mine works at a dealer as a mec. an said adjustin these would restore a little more power. what do u think? thanks
 
valves in adjustment?

I just adjusted my valves at 113,000 miles, and found to my suprize that all were well within specs. I adjusted them to the tight side, . 008 intake and . 018 exhaust, to see if it opens up the top end a bit, and gets a little quieter in the cab. Has anyone found that the valves were out of spec when checked?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
I do many,many valve adjust. I find very few that are at PREFERRED specs. The window Cummins allows is too big for my taste. You will usually have a smoother running engine once they are all matched to to the same spec.



Bob
 
The first thing I notice is the engine is quieter in the cab and outside, the second is that it seems to run smooth, and the third is that it may spool the turbo a little (very little) bit faster. From my experience with solid lift engines, the spec is very wide, I definately agree.



The most I had to change any one rocker was . 005". For 113,000 miles, that ain't much, or at least compaired to the solid lifter engines I have adjusted before. Had to adjust them ever 15,000-30,000 miles.



Anybody know what happens if you get too tight, under the . 006 intake or . 015 exhaust? I ran my solid lift units at . 003 and . 008, in a smallblock chevy.

Jeff
 
specs

Does anyone happen to know what the torque spec is for the locking nuts on the rocker adjustment screws? I have yet to find it in my Dodge manual. Thanks for any help. gary
 
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Job Done

Well I did my valve lash adjustment this morning and installed my new red cover. They were all on the loose side (. 002"-. 005") out of the preferred . 010"/. 020" settings. Rolled the engine over 3 times and rechecked/adjusted them. I found an easy way to watch for TDC is mark the harmonic balancer weight on the passenger side of the fan belt where it meets the weight after first lining up the pump tdc marks the first time. I double checked the position on the pump marks to make sure each time, but it is quicker to first line it up with the balancer mark. Engine runs smoother, seems to run more freely shifting gears too. Nice to see all the tips on here especially about marking the first set of rockers to adjust. Now I can breathe easy for another 90k mi. :):)
 
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