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valve adjustment

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2004 Dually Launch Shutter

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Don't worry how long it takes to do one rocker... ... You are learing something. It doesn't come all at once... . ever try to play an musical insturment? It takes a few years... . yeah?

Just give it a try. Follow the book, and ask questions.



Dave
 
RankRam said:
:-laf JStieger is closer.



Only 4 hours closer! :-laf



One of these weekends I am due to make a trip to Reno to deliver a desk to my GF's sis who is going to UNR, but not until I get my truck stumbling issue sorted out. When I come out I'll be sure to give you a call!



Ryan-



Just start early on the weekend and take your time so you're not rushed, but you can still maintain consistency. If you get stuck, then you can log onto here and ask questions! I started at 9:15 and started asking questions at 9:21 and jwilliams3 answered within the next hour or so! I suffer from severe OCD :-laf and went over and checked over my stuff a few times because of thinking "what if I forgot this... what if I forgot that?". I spent 1 hour on figuring out the TDC thing (because of the 2nd gen forum 24 valve adjust threads got me all confused with "timing pins" etc) - I think I turned over the engine about 10 times before I was satisfied. Then I spent something like 2 hours on #1 because of my "alleged" OCD, where I undid the adjustment I just set just to be sure I did set it correctly and tightened it down enough. Another tip is to take notes as you go and complete each adjustment: where you started at and where you ended up at. Then if you get distracted, like I easily do, it's pretty easy to backtrack.







Soooo... just thinking how your mind works... are you itching to check your valve adjustment this weekend? :D
 
I adjusted the valved today and I was surprised where they were at. The worst one was like 0. 003 loose, most just to say needed to be tightened. 150,000 miles.
 
for those who have dial indicator sets, you could probably set the lash with the dial for the freeplay. . i have done it on other engines, but never on a B so it might/might not work [is there enough room to get a dial set in there under the hood?]
 
JStieger said:
Only 4 hours closer! :-laf



One of these weekends I am due to make a trip to Reno to deliver a desk to my GF's sis who is going to UNR, but not until I get my truck stumbling issue sorted out. When I come out I'll be sure to give you a call!



Heck yes give me a call anytime. PM me for the number. I have most of the hand tools but I don't have a dial indicator or feeler guages or anything like that. I do have a good sized sledge hammer though just in case! :)
 
Forgive me for being too lazy to go outside and look for myself but, does the 3rd gen engine use the same barring tool that the earlier engines use?



Thanks,



Hyde
 
All I did is turn the engine over using the alternator. Not sure if you could do that on the 3rd gens though.
 
nickleinonen said:
for those who have dial indicator sets, you could probably set the lash with the dial for the freeplay



How? Set the lash to 0, attach the dial indicator and back off until you read 0. 010" (or 0. 020" exhaust)?



The barring tool should be the same (at least I hope so). For those who currently lack the tools to do this, how about the set direct from Cummins (made by KD) as discussed in this thread. Includes the barring tool and a set of feeler gauges. Even if you never use it, it's a cool little "collectible" for Cummins fanatics!



-Ryan
 
F-15I Ra'am said:
How about one of you guys posting a "how to" with pics!



I put some pictures in the thread that I linked to earlier in this thread!



Where does the barring tool go anyway? I couldn't find the access hole to the flywheel so I ended up using a fan clutch wrench on the large nut behind the fan. It was easy to see everything from here anyway.
 
I don't fool with the barring tool . . . too darned slow. I use the alternator pulley to turn the engine backwards, and a 1/2" drive socket with 18mm on one of the damper bolts to turn it forward. Not hard to do.



Vaughn
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
I don't fool with the barring tool . . . too darned slow. I use the alternator pulley to turn the engine backwards, and a 1/2" drive socket with 18mm on one of the damper bolts to turn it forward. Not hard to do.



I thought I read somewhere that you're never supposed to turn the engine backward. Am I mistaken?



-Ryan
 
I've never heard that its bad to turn an engine backwards but when doing a critical tolerance adjustment such as valves you can be a little off the mark going that way. When barring backwards you will be off in degrees by the amount of gear lash/chain slack. If you are going the normal direction rotation, usually CW, then you are loading the geartrain as it normally would be. Shouldn't be a huge issue with our engines being gear driven. You will have more variance with a chain drive set up. The reverse rotation no-no may be with some Japanese engines that use a timing chain and tensioner that is actuated by oil pressure.



Hyde
 
How? Set the lash to 0, attach the dial indicator and back off until you read 0. 010" (or 0. 020" exhaust)?

more or less... get your engine in the position you want it in for setting the lash on any rocker arm, set your dial against the rocker arm while you press it down finger tight against the valve bridge. while holding it down, set your dial at . 000" or where ever you like, then rock the rocker arm back against the pushtube and see what the lift of the rocker is [0. 010" intake, 0. 020" exhaust] if you are above or below what the spec is, adjust it and retry it until you get it to where you want. it is much slower than feeler gauges, but if you are not 100% sure what 0. 010" feels like, you can set one with the dial, then drag a 0. 010" feeler under it and see what the drag is like [would be very minimal]



and a 1/2" drive socket with 18mm on one of the damper bolts to turn it forward. Not hard to do.

15mm on the 3rd gens...



I thought I read somewhere that you're never supposed to turn the engine backward. Am I mistaken?



as in the post above, it could have something to do with engines that have timing belts and timing chains with hydraulic tensioners. with gear driven everything like we have on the b series, don't worry about turning it one way or another. . clockwise from front is the correct rotation direction. to keep timing accurate, it is a good idea to bar in the correct rotation direction. for setting valve lash, as long as the cam is on the inner base circle, you will be fine
 
nickleinonen said:
as in the post above, it could have something to do with engines that have timing belts and timing chains with hydraulic tensioners. with gear driven everything like we have on the b series, don't worry about turning it one way or another. . clockwise from front is the correct rotation direction.



My mistake. I checked both my Cummins manual and the Dodge manual and neither one forbids reverse-rotating the engine. I must've read it about some other engine I was working on. Sorry about that.



-Ryan
 
Another thought on turning an engine over backwards. Some of the less expensive engines (low horsepower Chevys) use a nodular iron crankshaft. When it is machined it leaves a knap on the cast iron that is kind of like scales on a fish. The polishing process lays the scales down in the direction of rotation. If the crank is rotated backwards, theory is it will try to stand up some of these scales and be detrimental to the soft bearing material.



I believe our Cummins use a good forged steel shaft that should not be affected by rotating it backwards.



Man, I gotta adjust my valves just so I know they are right.
 
I bet the lash is well within the specs. I mean my truck's got 150,000 miles and it was very close to the 0. 010/0. 020 measurement.
 
I may need to check mine. I'm getting ready to roll 180k on my 04. 5. No noise, no problems, runs smooth and strong. What's the turnaround time on doing the full set?
 
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