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Valve adjustment

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Redline on 12 valve

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Can someone give me the link for the instructions for timing my 12V. THANKS Also any hints/suggestions appreciated
 
I know there were a few good posts on this topic, but I did a search and couldn't find them. It's time for a valve adjustment on my truck too, so I'll be looking for more info. I might install the 60 lb. springs at the same time.
 
Has anyone used that 6 in-lb wrench mentioned from the above link? Does this tool make life easy enough to justify the cost of purchasing it?
 
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You can do it w/o the 6 in lb cummins tool. It's just a little bit slower w/o it. If you dont do this for a living, I dont think it's necessary.

I did mine using the backwards voo-doo method. Took about 1. 5 hr if I remember correctly. I COULD NOT get that @%$#^ timing pin to drop into the gear, so I went to the voodoo method.

Only tool I'd suggest is a stepped feeler gauge. Sears does not have this as a seperate tool. I got mine from the Snap-on dude. If you use this, it helps determine that you have the valves at the right measurement.

Dont let the instructions scare you off, it seems more complex that it actually is.

HTH

Eric
 
what's the difference between a stepped feeler guage and kind you get at Sears? I have been using the regular ol' straight and angled feeler guages from Sears. :confused:
 
Originally posted by 1tuffram

what's the difference between a stepped feeler guage and kind you get at Sears? I have been using the regular ol' straight and angled feeler guages from Sears. :confused:



1TR, a stepped gauge is just like it sounds. The last 1/2" will be say... . 010. Then the rest of it will step up to say... 012. This way you keep adjusting and sliding the gauge in and out until it wont fit the bigger part. That's when you'll know theyre set right. I'm used to working on gasoline engines, these trucks have much weaker valve springs, and that makes it harder to "feel" how theyre adjusted. You can easily over adjust the valves w/o the stepped gauge.

If you do OK with the std gauge, stick with it. I just thought it helped me.

Eric
 
You know, I have been adjusting valves in cars and trucks for the better part of my life and you can adjust any valve as long as it's on the back side of the cam... or not tight. No need to identify TDC and mark a pully or push the pin in. As a side note, I went to Cummins west and I watched as a guy adjusted a 5. 9 motor. He just adjusted them on the back side and when I asked if he used the barring tool and the pin he just laughed. He said the barring tool is too hard to use for valve adjustment and even if you are able to find TDC, 1/2 the time the pin won't engage. He says to use the alt nut and run the motor backwards until the valve is on the backside of the cam lobe and adjust it. Move on to the next valve and do the same. He did say, however, that the motor needs to be relativly cool. I asked how cool and he said 4 hours cool.

-Paul R. Haller-
 
That's right, Paul. I do my valve adjustments even easier and quicker than that. I use one of those remote starter switches to where you can leave the key off so the truck wont start and bump the motor over with the starter. Like you said, just watch the valves, you can tell when they're on the back side of the cam lobe. Check your adjustment and go to the next one. I can usually knock the whole thing out in very short order, especially since they very seldom need any adjustment anyway.
 
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