Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) valve adjustment

[Wyomingcowboy]

Just how hard is it to do an overhead? I already have the vlave cover off for new injectors. Should I just go ahead and adjust the valves while I'm in there?

If so, what are the proper specs? Truck has about 113k on it now.

 

[JLandry]

STANDARD PROCEDURE—VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION



NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements AND adjustments should only be performed when the engine coolant temperature is less than 60° C (140° F).



The 24-valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance” design. Routine adjustments are no longer necessary, however, measurement should still take place when trouble-shooting performance problems, or upon completion of a repair that includes removal and installation of the valve train components.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.



(2) Remove cylinder head cover.



(3) Remove the crankcase breather and vapor canister.



(4) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471-B, rotate the engine and align the pump gear mark with the top dead center (TDC) mark on the gear housing cover.



(5) With the engine in this position (pump gear mark at 12 o'clock), valve lash can be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE 1-2-4 / EXHAUST 1-3-5. Measure the valve lash by inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm socket and crosshead. Refer to VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/resetting is not necessary. If measurement finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting is required.



(6) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw until the desired lash is obtained:

• INTAKE 0. 254 mm (0. 010 in. )
  
• EXHAUST 0. 508 mm (0. 020 in. )
  

Tighten the lock nut and re-check the valve lash.



(7) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the pump gear mark to the 6 o'clock position in relation to the TDC mark on the gear housing cover.



(8) With the engine in this position (pump gear mark at 6 o'clock), valve lash can be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE 3-5-6 / EXHAUST 2-4-6. Use the same method as above for determining whether adjustment is necessary, and adjust those that are found to be outside of the limits.



(9) Install the cylinder head cover.



(10) Install the fuel pump gear access cover.



(11) Connect the battery negative cables.​

Regards,



John L.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

WyBoy,

I always set the intake at . 008 in. and the exhaust at . 016 in. Makes the engine quieter than set at . 010 and. 020.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

barring tool

Does anybody have a barring tool you would be willing to lend, providing I pay shipping? Or better yet, anyone have a source from which to buy one for cheap?

 

[n7gxz]

Does anybody have a barring tool you would be willing to lend, providing I pay shipping? Or better yet, anyone have a source from which to buy one for cheap?

The cheap way is to take the crankcase vent housing off the front of the time case. Then use a socket and a breaker bar on the nut that holds the gear on the VP44. The vent housing screws on so you'll need a pair of large channel locks or something like that to take it off.



Kevin

 

[GarrettPetersen]

Or you can use a 15mm socket and ratchet on the dampener bolts

 

[americana]

I've got a question regarding checking the valve clearances. On both my 4V(different makes) european motorcycles with screw type valve adjusters when I check/adjust one intake (or exhaust) I always put a gauge under the other intake (or exhaust) tappet on the same cylinder. Is that necessary on the Cummins? There is a rocker that connects the two valves that's why I do it on the bikes.



I'm only at 90kmi so I am gathering tips now. I figure I'll be ready for a valve adjustment in a year or two. When fuel is $4~5 a gallon and you have a company truck and fuel card... . you come up with reasons not to drive your pride and joy!!



one last question... . how long from hood opening to closing should it take... . I'm a shade tree (and not a serious one at that) wrencher.



thanks guys...

 

[ed9824v]

Does anybody have a barring tool you would be willing to lend, providing I pay shipping? Or better yet, anyone have a source from which to buy one for cheap?

I have a large assortment of tools but don't know what a barring tool is and I might even have one. I have the tool to turn the flex plate on my chevy motors. Help out on what this tool is thanks ED

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Look under #4



B Series Valve Adjustment

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Peter,

No.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[ed9824v]

Look under #4



B Series Valve Adjustment

thanks for the info. not a tool I have around. Ed

 

[WILLD420]

I used a long BIG standard screwdriver on the flexplate. The cummins doesn't take a lot of strength to turn it over.

 

[RJWEST]

I just did my valve adjustment... . 02 85k miles...
For a 69 year old, The job is a 'PAIN' in the back...

Things I learned" in 3 1/2 Hours...

I Wasted to much time trying to get EXACT settings. ,
I could not get the " Exact" settings as described , Finally went to a Go/ No GO process, Settings valves BY . 021 no go/ . 018 Go ( ext ) :Intake. . 006 (loose)/. 012
should have done this in the beginning, There were only a few out of spec...

Turning engine @ Alt was easy with correct socket( took me 30 minutes to find it ) and " Gaterback serpentine belt )

A big sheet sponge over the Radiator would have been nice.
A B&D Work table in front of the engine made a big differance,
step stool didn't cut it... OUCH

A bigger mirror would also have helped, My small oval shop mirror
( half missing ) made it rather difficult to see the timing mark.

I did not use VP nut to turn engine, this seemed a Risky operation, I did inspect the nut. . It was There...

Draining 2 gallons of coolant and removing heater hose made the job of job of removing the valve cover real easy. Loosening
the radiator drain plug, scarry operation, Cheap plastic valve.
Also using jugs without holes would have helped, 1 gallon leaked out on floor...

Did the valves need adjustment:, There was 1 loose valve,
Quited the engine, Also there was one ' Not to tight' nut on
no 6 intake... All rest were probably in spec.

Now I just hope I did not screw it up, or leave any tools inside the valve covers... . I did account for the Allen Key. !!!

And Lastly, How the valve assembly does not come un glued is beyond me. . sure looks micky mouse... .

Next time will be easier, If I live that long, And I can Remember
what I learned... .

 

[Moose Truck]

Does anybody have a barring tool you would be willing to lend, providing I pay shipping? Or better yet, anyone have a source from which to buy one for cheap?

Cummins sells one, It's a bear to use, it goes into a hole behind the Turbo (It's covered by a ruber plug. ) Instead, I use the Alternator Nut to "Bar" the engine over backwards. It's 15/16" I think. Remove the Breather on the front cover, in front of the VP44. Usinng a Mirror and Flashlight, Line up the TDC mark with the front cover for the 1st set of valves, and then turn it 1/2 turn for the 2nd set.



Ram Truck Cummins Diesel Engine Information

 

[Kf6cmp]

I also used the alternator nut to BAR the engine and it works perfectly.

 

[Destutevil]

Where do I find the Pump Gear Mark TDC on the injector pump?



Thanks

Destutevil

 

[ed9824v]

when I did it I found the TDC mark behind the crank case blow by cover on the front of the engine

 

[Destutevil]

How do you remove the breather?

 

[Destutevil]

Removal of crankcase breather.

How do remove the crankcase breather on a 2002 Cummins?



Thanks

Darrel

 

[ed9824v]

on mine it just unscrew normal direction.