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Valve Adjustment?

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Anybody From Alaska

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I am gonna attempt my very first valve adjustment. I have looked for instructions and specs on this procedure, but cant find it. I would love pics and instructions suited for an 8 year old!:rolleyes: Trying to save some bucks during tough times... can you guys help me? Thanks!

Brian
 
BCFAST

this is a pretty simple procedure and what a diff it makes. just take your time. first time through. if you want I can scan and send to you a set of instructions straight from the book. just send me a email if you want me to do this. good luck Patrick
 
Thanks guys!! It sure doesnt seem to be a biggie... Joe G's link is just the ticket! Gonna do it saturday morning when the motor's cold. I am suprised at the 24k mile interval... . I sure am overdue!
 
I can honestly say that after my initial 24k valve adjustment the next two at 48k and 100k were a waste of time. Just goes to show you don't have to always follow the book. I'll go every 100k from now on and still not expect that much adjustment is necessary.
 
Matt

I adjust mine every 25 K have on all my cummins engines last one a 93 had 500K plus what I notice is a smoother running more responsive engine. I have gauges now so I will be better able to monitor any improvements on my 98 but its just a feeling of smoother running and more responsive engine. I have always found at 25K about 40% of my valves needed a minor adjustement. All I know is what I have felt and heard after owning cummins since 93 and driving over 600K between the two trucks. I want to also say that my 93 which is in anothers hands is still strong at 630K and that engine has never been modified or wrenched on other than reg maint. is it the 25 K valave adjustments? I dont know. but why chance it is my stand. . hope my explanation helps. . best regards Patrick:)
 
Thanks for the responses... .

I wasn't sure if folks were seeing a huge difference in noise or power.

I have no idea if the previous owner ever adjusted them... . and I've had it for 30k miles since May.....

It's on the list of things to do...



Matt
 
Originally posted by HoleshotHolset

Thanks for the responses... .

I wasn't sure if folks were seeing a huge difference in noise or power.

I have no idea if the previous owner ever adjusted them... . and I've had it for 30k miles since May.....

It's on the list of things to do...



Matt



Do I smell a New England Valve adjustment day?
 
Your experience will be pleasant and I find it fun to do not to messy and not to difficult just a good excercise in mechanics. and you will notice some result for sure. More power would be likly however I have no way to prove the fact so I will just say its well worth the effort. :D
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

Brian,



Read all about it here: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html



I use a small dial indicator instead of feeler gages. The last two cylinders are kind of a bear. Have something to lay on the engine to keep your belly clean while you are laying on it cussing. :D:D



I hear of some guys using a dial indicator instead of the feeler guages. Can you explain how to use the dial indicator. What dial indicator do you use. Is one of those magnetic bases required? When using the dial indicator where are you measuring for valve clearance?? I almost need a visual to understand how this works, only way I know or have seen is slipping the feeler guage between the rocker arm and valve stem, doubt it works the same with the dial indicator. :confused:
 
I have a dial indicator with a small head. A big one might not fit under the cowl for the last two cylinders. I use a magnetic base on the flat parts of the exhaust manifold ports. The dial indicator measures the amount of motion in the end of the rocker arm at the valve stem. I just move the rocker arm with my finger and watch the dial. Pretty easy.
 
Joe G. Now ya got me interested in a small head dial indicator.

Where can I get one along with the small magnetic plate? I have to try this. It would be so much more precise than sliding those flexy-feelers around. Thanks for your pointers Joe.
 
Hey Guys you do not need a barring tool just use the large nut on the alternator and turn the engine it will turn easy with a large drive ratchet and only turns one way backwards I beleive so you need feeler gauges and a small torque wrench to tighten and loosen the set nut from there you may want to have a new set of valve covers on hand you dealer will have them dont forget the gray are better and get the O rings for the bolts also. My dealer takes good care of me price wise you should pay around 25 bucks for the set. whens the party and Where. it takes a little patience but our trucks are worthy of patience right!:D Oo.
 
There are indicators that have the plunger coming out the back of the case. They are usually very short throw but can be real convenient in tight places. I bought a complete setup years ago from Grainger for dialing in cams that cost about $100 - came with magnetic base, two arms, necessary arm connectors and dial mount. At the time it was a major purchase for a starving college student but the cam was begging to be dialed in properly. Invaluable tool for certain jobs - you will find many uses for one once you have one i. e. brake runout, bearing endplay, driveshaft runout, etc.



You can occasionally find them at swap meets for a good price - but check them for proper function before buying. I bought a bunch of depth gauges and inside telescoping mics at Spring Charlotte a couple of years ago. For the price I now have a way to check most any dimensional requirement needed.
 
Here is my valve adjustment history. At 31,000 miles, only 4 valves needed adjusted and none of those 4 were more than . 002" off. At 60,000 miles only one valve needed adjusted (#5 intake was off by . 002"). It will be quite a while before I adjust them again.
 
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