valve adjustment

[formula]

Just checking to see how many of you out there do your own valve adjustments. Mine is due for one, think I hear some of the rockers tapping a bit. Cummins Northeast wants $175 for a valve adjustment. Not sure how much of that is for the gaskets. I have a set of feeler gauges (used to adjust the valves on my dirt bike). It seems that all I'll need is a set of gaskets and a couple hours of time to do this. If I remember correctly, the engine should be cold prior to the adjustment, intake 0. 010" and exh 0. 020". How about the torque spec for the adjuster nuts? What's the best way to crank the engine around by hand?



Sean

 

[McGivern]

Sean,

You need the engine cold. You can turn over the engine with a large wrench on the fan nut (can't remember size, but iti is big metric). The gaskets are rubber, and probably don't need replacement (mine have 170K on the and 4 adjustments). I don't remember the torque. The job only takes an hour or so, and is no big deal.

Mark

 

[formula]

Excellent, more money to put in the transmission fund



If anyone knows the proper torque for the adjuster nuts, please let me know.



Thanks,

SP

 

[Philip]

rocker lever nut =18 ft. lbs



tappet cover=18 ft. lbs

 

[R.E. Miller]

Just my two cents here, but when I adjust overhead, I would not super concern myself with the torque value on the adjusting nuts. I am not trying to get flamed here, I regularly see and deal with the aftermath of both over torqued and lose adjusting nuts at work. My point is, get your feeler gauge to the feeling that you like (I like to hear a nice snap when it comes out ) then turn the adjusting screw a gnat's eyelash tighter, and tighten your adjusting nut... tight. See what you have after that. Some first timers really get flustered when they find out the clearance becomes greater as you tighten the adjusting nut (the first time I ran the overhead on an N-14, hmmm... it took some time and some language :-laf) Anyhow, have fun and those gaskets don't cost that much, treat your truck... if it has been nice to you



Russell

 

[Philip]

(the first time I ran the overhead on an N-14, hmmm... it took some time and some language )

Replace N-14 with a 903 for me. LOL Been there done that.

 

[formula]

Thanks for the torque specs Philip. I'll adjust the valves soon, maybe even tomorrow if the cranberry harvest is finished early.



Now, how to put an N14 in a '93 W250??



SP

 

[DavidGardner]

Sean

Good luck on the valve adjust. It is realativly straight forward. To turn the engine by hand, use a 22mm socket on the alternator nut. If you turn it and the belt moves and the engine dont then turn it the other direction. Seems to me that when you are standing at the front of the truck looking to the back turn the socket clockwise and the engine will turn over. The important thing to remember is if you turn it the wrong way the engine wont turn andf the belt will just slip. Adjust the valves cold. I like to park the truck in the garage or where ever I intend to do the work the night before. Then you can go out the next morning with your cup of coffee and while the engine is dead cold do the adjustment on the valves. The gaskets are fairly cheep for the valve covers but they are usualy good for several times. Remember that there are also little O ring gaskets on the top of the valve cover where the bolt goes through. Cummins practicaly gives these things away. (very cheap) I always replace them and keep extras on hand. I have over 140,000 miles on my truck and have always adjusted my own valves. The owners manual recomends the valves be adjusted every 24,000 miles (to the tune of 100 pluss bucks at the dealer). I have talked to a Cummins mechanic at Cummins Northwest and he told me you can safely go 50,000 miles between adjustments unless you hear strange noises or excessive valve clatter.



Dont be afraid to tackle this on your own. Enjoy the ride.



Your friend Dave Gardner

 

[Joe G.]

I use a small dial indicator to set the valves. That works well and eliminates the subjective business with feeler gages. A barring tool does a better job of turning the engine than a wrench on the alternator pulley. David is right on the gaskets, especially the O-rings. Cheap and if you don't replace them you will probably have a leak. The last valve adjustment I did was unnecessary. They were still ok from the last time. I have 203K on my truck.

 

[JFitzgerald]

formula, I did mine this summer with some help from Case500D. Most of them were pretty loose. Looked like the covers had never been off. The gaskets had factory paint and it chipped apart from the head when removing the covers. This was at about 130K miles. Previous owner was religious about lube changes, etc. , but I guess he didn't know about the rocker adjustments. The Cummins sounds better since, with less clatter. Is that possible?? Simple job, just have to get the "feel" on the first rocker and try to be consistent with the rest. You can get a "barring" tool for rotating the engine.

 

[formula]

Thanks again for all the great info.

BTW, what is this "barring tool" that has been mentioned? How much $ for said tool.



SP

 

[JFitzgerald]

Check out this link. It shows the barring tool and describes the whole process. Snap-on probably wants $50 for it, but you should be able to get it somewhere else for less.

 

[formula]

Ah, yes, there it is.

Called cummins northeast, $30. Probably a handy tool to have for future valve and timing adjustments.



SP

 

[Paychk]

Search the forum for the Cummins tuneup tool kit, I think someone posted the P/N for it a while back. It has everything you need to do all tuneup items and the instructions to do it. If I find it, I'll repost it.



Good Luck!



Found it, here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22654&highlight=tool+kit



This is a really good soulution, the only thing better is a P/N 2017DSP Snap-on tool kit.