Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Valve Adjustment

[JMichelson]

I’m planning on adjusting the valves on my 98 12-valve this weekend. Do the trucks come with the Barring Tool to turn the engine? If they do is it normally stored somewhere on the truck or engine? Thanks, Jeff

 

[CumminsPower98]

The truck does not come with a barring tool but you can turn the engine backwards using the 7/8" nut on the alternator pulley, which works well for adjusting valves.



Mark

 

[shendren]

yep, and you can turn the alt bolt with your left hand and find the timing pin with your right... ... .....

 

[LSMITH]

Don't turn it backwards, turn it forwards only and if you go past TDC keep going until it comes back around. Take all the lash out of the cam drive that way. It is more accurate.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Some may differ with me on this but the valve adjustment is not near critical enough for that small amount of gear lash to make any difference at all. Many on this board have used this method to turn the engine for valve adjustments with no problems at all. Cam shafts generally have a pretty wide area opposite the lobe where there is no change in hight.

 

[BigBadDodge]

Barring tool part #3824591

6lb torque wrench #3376592



Directions and tools required



HERE



BBD

 

[JWaters]

adjustment

We have some engine with over 400,000 miles on them, Never had a valve adjustment. Maybe it's the good oil we use? maybe not? I will adjust my truck when the head cracks or a head bolt breaks, not before. Oo.

 

[Crowhurst]

This morning I used the 6 in-lb torque wrench listed by BigBadDodge. When I adjusted the tappets with this , the feeler gauge was was trapped solid, and could not be removed. I went back to my usual method of doing it by feel. Unless there is something I don't understand, I presume the tool is wrongly calibrated, and I shall send it back. Has anyone similar or better experiences with this tool? Also, how small does your right hand have to be to push the timing pin in while rotating the alternator nut?? Nick.

 

[Bob4x4]

The torque wrench method has not proven accurate,the old fashion way works great and is accurate. I use a 30 year old snap on tool I bought back in my Chevy hot rod days... ..... the same tool is shown in the new Snap-on catalog in the diesel section now but it is not needed just a little quicker. Nick I don't think size matters. just the angle . You don't need to push the pin in for v/adj,pull it out then you can just feel the hole... ..... more than close enough.



Bob

 

[Crowhurst]

Bob, thank you. I'll send the torque wrench back. I'm relieved that size doesn't matter. Nick.

 

[MontyDyer]

More than likely, the 6in lb tq. wrench is not out of calibration. It really is more important to get all the valves set the same rather than right at the 10 and 20 specs. You will find that the tq. wrench gets all of the valves set the same but will be a little tight, but not overly tight or out of spec. In fact, I cant use the wrench on any 12 valves at work due to valve spring strength, the valve will start to open before you ever get to 6in lb. However, 24 valves, M11's, and N14's have always worked fine with the tool as well as Cat and Detroit engines.

 

[Crowhurst]

Monty, thank you, that explains exactly what I was seeing. Nick.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I just did mine again yesterday. If it's your first time, accurately locate #1 TDC, (maybe with the timing pin) and mark it someplace on your damper so you can find it the next time. After that, close enough is good enough, you don't need to use the timing pin again, it's just for timing the pump anyway. Now you can adjust what ever valves you are supposed to in this position, then rotate the engine one revolution until your TDC mark lines up again & adjust the rest of them. You can turn it over with the alternator nut, or lay on your back, and rotate the engine by hand using the damper. To do it that way, it's helpfull to put a punch mark or paint dot at the 6 o'clock position on the damper so you can see it while under the truck. When you adjust the valves, back the lock nut off, and run the screw down with your fingers until you get the proper "feel" on the gauge, and then snug up the lock nut. Sometimes the screw will tighten up on the feeler when you tighten the nut, so re-check it, and work with it until it feels the same as the rest of them. I have a couple on my engine that give me trouble, and I have to hold them with a screw driver while I tighten the nut, and still have trouble getting them right.

 

[Crowhurst]

Thank you Dennis, that's some useful information that I haven't seen elsewhere. Nick.

 

[Crowhurst]

I bought this 6 in lb torque wrench, p/n 3376592 last week for $60 as a reult of reading http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

The torque is far too high, as discussed above. Cummins Parts, PA, refuses to take it back, as their policy is not to accept returned service tools, and they say that the wrench is not for setting the valve lash, but for some injector adjustment on another engine. The link to Dave Fritz's e-mail on dodgeram.org does not work to advise him that there is an issue here. I shall be on the road for a few days now. If anyone has a contact for him, perhaps they could pass the message on. Otherwise, I post this to save someone else $60. Nick.

 

[BPonci]

The original design for the 6 in lb tq tee handle is for 855cub top stop injectors.