Valve body vs. shift kit inquiry

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Requesting feedback concerning opinions/experience on installing a shift kit vs a complete valve body in an auto trans. The shift kit is definitely economical, but I wonder about long term benefits. My transmission is currently bone stock.

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'96 3500 4X4 Club Cab, Automatic, 4. 10:
'70 440 4sp RT Challenger
:'00 Harley Dyna Convertible

 

[Archive]

RT_Craig:

Check out my post to "A-bomb" in this
area under the title "Torque Converter
or Valve Body". I think the answers
will help you. Also see "BD Pressure
Loc" in an earlier post. (It may be
in the 12 Valve Archives by now. )

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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You can install a complete valve body yourself. A shift kit is rather complicated. I had a trans shop do mine and the tech said it was "humbug", even tho he had done about 5 Trans-Go's previously on gassers. I think I got a super deal on the install. $250 for TC and shift kit install including fluids. Shop owner told me he underbid this install and next time the cost would be around $550. If you are going to do the install yourself, you can save a bunch of money with the shift kit. If you are going to pay someone to do it, I don't think you would save that much vs a valve body installed yourself. Another plus would be the valve body SHOULD already be set up with the proper shift points.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psycotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, Straight pipe, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn.

 

[Archive]

I would recomment the valvebody. See my post "Autotrans questions-any specialist care to help?".
You get the same result with both but as the kit is $100 or so and the whole valvebody is $275 with the pressures already set, why go through what I am? If you want to spend a full day (install and 1/2 day per tweek) vs. a couple hours and have a bunch (10 qts a throw) of ATF, save the $175 and buy the kit. You may get lucky with the kit on the first go round, but in hind sight (yes, 20-20 thank you) I would do the valvebody. You might be able to find a better price that retail also.
Koe Man got the deal of the day on getting his kit installed.

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'94 3500 4x4, 201,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit (currently under remodification), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

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I have shift kit installed by trans shop local for $200- they also played with pressures until trans worked good. Rebuilt at 75,000 2 and 3 gear clutch packs toasted. I am upgrading to tst plate 3 for autos. Have 215 injectors-don't expect tc to last long as I have to watch lockup 45-52 under mid range power makes horrible noise.

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1996-3500 tst stage 3 plate, K&N air filter,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock.

 

[Archive]

Thank you for all your inputs. Based on the information provided, it looks like a valve body installation will be the path I take. #ad


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'96 3500 4X4 Club Cab, Automatic, 4. 10:
'70 440 4sp RT Challenger
:'00 Harley Dyna Convertible