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Valve lash

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Ordered some PW injectors today...........

Brake warning light?

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Hi,

Could someone give me the valve lash settings please.

Intake?
Exhaust?
Hot or Cold?
Static or Dynamic?

Thanks very much guys... my truck has a bit of a noise that it developed on my way out to the coast, I'm pretty sure it's valves as I'm not sure when they were last set. Changing out the Mobile 1 didn't help - at least now it is properly lubricated.

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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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The settings I use are 0. 010" intake and 0. 020" exhaust at around 20°C. Every time I get the truck back from a shop I have found them a little loose. Only takes about 20 Min to set them.

J-eh

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Jason Hoffman
Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 LSD Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", BD Injectors, Banks Pyro/Boost, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. 100W Drv,55W Fogs.
237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs. Cummins Power Booster member.
The Original Turbo Diesel

Lil' Mack Pics/March 2001
 
Just a quick note. I would rather set mechanical valves a bit loose than a bit too tight. If they are too tight, there is more of a chance of burning a valve. The most accurate way besides a dial indicator that I have found is a set of go/no-go feeler guages. The set I have is from Mac, but I am sure you can get them from other tool dealers. Just my $. 02 worth.

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Jeremy Sweeten 1992 Dodge W-250 4x4 Cummins Diesel, Intercooled,LE Package, 166K, AT, Warner Hubs, Dana 60HD 4,060 lb. front axle and Dana 70 6,084 lb. limited slip rear axle with 3. 54 gears, NPG 205 transfer case, 3. 5" Banks exhaust straight pipe, K&N air filter. Tekonsha Voyager XP electric brake controller. Una-Goose 30,000 lb. gooseneck hitch.
http://home.earthlink.net/~sweeten1/index.htm
 
Hey Uncle Billy,
Specs are correct in the other posts but heres a little additional info FWIW. Cummins says "cold" is anything below 140 degrees eng temp, so it doesn't need to be a stone cold, first thing in the morning project. Also, a trick an old mechanic buddy of mine used to use makes some sense. He always cranked the adjusting screws down 'til he couldn't move the feeler gauge, then backed it off to the point where he could just slide the gauge, then lock it down. He said it kinda standardized things because "slip fit" means different things to different people. Hope this helps,
Jones

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Jones
'84 Ramcharger w/CTD, non-gated 12, torqflite, NP205, Dana 60 and 70 w/ 3. 07s. Straight piped 3" to x-member 4" the rest of the way.
 
Jones has a good idea. Its good to loosen them off, then tighten them up to tight to get the oil out of the push rod and seat the rocker. Then loosen the screw till the feeler just slides out. You should be able to get the feeler back under without forcing it to check. I also use Go-NoGo feelers.

J-eh
 
What are go-no-go feelers?

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors
 
Did it this morning. Thanks for the help guys. Engine seems quieter now, power seems the same. Nice and clean under those covers, that's always nice to see when you buy a truck with 200k+ miles on it #ad


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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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Matt S
Go- Nogo feelers have two "sizes" on each fealer. The tip would be say 0. 010" and then step up to 0. 012" about 1/2 inch up the feeler. Then the next size would be 0. 011 - 0. 013 etc. Its good for feeling if they are out by more than 0. 001" when setting them.

J-eh
 
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