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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VB replacement?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) question on DDIII's

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) NV 4500 VENT Location

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How hard is it to replace your valvebody? What is a good replacement for the stock unit? I'm now shifting manually on the colum, but that is even starting to slip. Any other ideas? How much do VBs cost anyways?
 
You may want to get the truck to a competent repair shop. I'd take it to a high performance diesel shop:D . If your transmission has burnt clutches from leaking seals,the valve body isnt going to help any. If its been slipping ,it probably is too late to save it. Most good shops can give you an idea of the costs invloved after a test drive,and pressure test. I recommend a DTT authorized/approve shop. You'll get advice to check out ATS,BD,Suncoast from others,Id look into them all if I were you. Your location ,nearest dealer,may have something to do with your choice,whichever you choose,if your going to need a rebuild,now is the time to upgrade!
 
Trans. Shop Recommendation

Thanks for the info Snowman.



If you or other TDR members could recommend a good shop here in Nor. Calif. (San Jose area). If they could educate me a little about what happened and why and what my options are that would be great. Also, any "shadetree" mechanics in my area could chime in as well if you can help (install/rebuild/upgrade).



Thanks again TDR members.
 
just don't put stock components back in unless you have to. snow man's right, adding an aftermarket valve body will only prolong your transmission's life a little more (not worth the $ since it will more-than-likely go downhill fast). you're gonna pay around $400 for the valve body or you can do it yourself with a shift kit ~$100. get a lower stall, high torque multiplication converter with beefier internals.



to name a few:

www.dieseltrans.com

www.atsdiesel.com

www.dunriteconverters.com



Tom
 
This is gonna' be expensive... Why only after 47,000 miles am I having to spend several thousand dollars on a truck that cost me tens-of-thousands of dollars? I've towed twice, (International ScoutII on a trailer-both times) in 2 years. Is it because I did a lot of city driving? I didn't even hammer it that hard off the line. Most of the time I was trying to get higher MPG so I took it easy. What did I do wrong?
 
Originally posted by Stoutscout

This is gonna' be expensive... Why only after 47,000 miles am I having to spend several thousand dollars on a truck that cost me tens-of-thousands of dollars? I've towed twice, (International ScoutII on a trailer-both times) in 2 years. Is it because I did a lot of city driving? I didn't even hammer it that hard off the line. Most of the time I was trying to get higher MPG so I took it easy. What did I do wrong?



Sorry to hear about your luck Stoutscout. I am sure many will chime in here, all I can say is these CTD's rule but those stock 47re's aint so great. You could be right, that wonderful San Jose traffic could have played some havoc on your transmission. They dont like heat to much in Stock trim especially, and thats what they get in stop and go driving. When did you buy your rig? Did you get that 70k powertrain warranty with yours? Was that out when you bought yours? If yours is still stock as for power mods and you have the warranty Dodge should be up to getting you a new "high quality" stock 47re. Sorry to rag on the transmission of these so much but I am bummed that I am going to have to shell out so much for an upgraded one too. Course mine is mod related transmission problems though :(
 
Originally posted by Stoutscout

Bought it new. '01. 5 3yr/30k. Why did my old 700r4's & 4L80E's last 100k. I mean come on, 45k and crapp-o!?



Well, the CTD is a helluva Diesel but the 47re... ... thats another story. Do some searches on here and you'll see unfortunately, you arent the only one with problems with a stock powered transmission going out. I had a 4l80 once and it was a good transmission for a stock power gasser but with a diesel like the CTD it would go bye bye as well. I know its an investment, I am in the same boat now too but from the ones Ive test driven with upgraded trannys you will be real happy with the difference in driveability. Do this and you will be set for many happy miles in the rockin CTD :D
 
Stoutscout if it makes you feel any better, my stock trans started slipping at 52K miles,when i added the Edge EZ,it immediately slipped and i had to take it off,the trans still slipped after that,until it got the DTT treatment.
 
M Evan



I dbl checked 3/36. Perhaps I'm an idiot and it's an '01 not '01. 5. I do have disk brakes on all 4 wheels...



B Bettencourt



Could you share your homework with me? Every vendor says theirs is the best. But that's like Dodge saying their trucks are the "best" (oh, except for the POS auto trans)



Snow man



I guess misery loves company... lot'sa company.



Is there a happy medium between a $4k race trans and a $? POS stock Mopar replacement trans that will last but is relatively inexpensive? Is there anything good about the stock internals?



UPDATE: On a positive note the transition from 1st to 2nd is pillow soft, like it's not even there... Oh wait! it's NOT there.

At least the tires don't break loose on wet roads anymore. Hills are fun too.
 
San Jose

Scout, there is a transmission shop in San Jose we have used. Trying to get the guys name at the moment.



I don't think you need a race transmission, just a rebuilt with a good converter and a valve body that will increase line pressure.
 
Dan's Transmission

Scout,



Give this guy a call---



Dan's transmission on San Jose Ave there # is 298-4292.



He has done some work for customers of Blair's since he lives not far from there. I have a guy over here who has done work for me as well as many installs for customers of mine. He's real resonable.
 
Hats off to TDR members for their input.

I would like to acknowledge a few people who have been very helpful in providing me with my options.



Bill Kondolay in KS

Snow man in NY

HVAC in CA



Much appreciated. I'm still slippin' , but with your help, soon I'll be grippen'
 
Scoutscout

My general warranty is also 3 year/36k miles.

My drive-train is 7 yr/100K!



I have a buddy with a 99 and says his is 5 year/100K "drive-train", are you sure your not missing something.
 
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