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VE-44 pump cost

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Straight Piped!

who needs first gen parts???

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James,



I am also interested if you know about the tank sending/pickup unit... that I asked about 2-3 messages ago.



Thanks,

Brian
 
fuel pressure

Keep in mind that I am just guessing from the other side of the US. Whether the pump is new or not, it is still subject to the effect of trash (the smallest shred). I read your other post and you suggest that there is no trash in the tank. None the less, the way the diaphragm pump works involves two valves that function in a one way flow manner. If anything gets in those valves (either one) the pump will not build adequate pressure to feed the pump as it should. I suggest that you install a primary fuel pressure gauge and with that, you can begin to eliminate what ISN'T wrong. I know that we all begin with a guess and a stab in the direction that we last were succesful. Correct diagnosis requires that we start and proceed with known points. Without guages, you have no known reference.



You mention night and day as well as cool and hot days. These factors may or may not have anything to do with the problem. But like you, I have had similar problems that seemed to manifest with wierd correlation. For instance? My 92 automatic would drop OD in and out till I wanted to shoot it when I drove toward the west. The further west I got the worse it would hunt in and out with the OD. By the time I got to Texas, I simply had no OD. The closer I got back to Georgia, the better it worked. I finally aborted the TPS and have a toggle switch on the shifter. I never could make the Dodge system work.



So when you know with out doubt that the pump is getting consistent fuel delivery at the input, if the problem still exist, you can say that the problem is inside the pump. Pull it and take it to a repair facility. With the right test equipment, they can duplicate hot operation conditions.



If you plumb in a direct reading guage, remember that you run the risk of fuel leak into the cab. Nasty Nasty Nasty. Use a sender and remote guage setup.



Best of luck.

James
 
inside the tank

NO. I have never looked at anything in the tanks of my trucks. I would note however that if there is any blockage associated with that, it would easily starve the system.



James
 
James,



I am actually about 250 miles away from you in Tennessee. :)



I have resisted gauages so far based on the cost and the fact that I have no interest in gauage pods that are permantent.



Can I tee at the banjo bolt up by the fuel filter? Where is the best place to plumb in for the gauge? I also have a hand held Mityvac vacuum/pressure gauge. Can this be used somehow for testing for vacuum in the fuel system pre pump?



Thanks,

Brian
 
Philip said:
2nd > how does the exhaust smell is it a strong smell or very little smell?



Last night when the truck was running good the smell had a distinct, strong diesel exhaust smell. :) I'll take note of it more often.
 
I pulled the pump off my 89 last weekend and dropped it off at the Bosch rep in town monday, I just got off the phone with him and my $6-700 rebuild has blossomed into 1100 becase the head and rotor were wore out and some other part that lets the pump "center" itself was shot also, he said it looked like wif damage and the reason my pump was "turned-up" was trying to compensate for this, said I was probably bypassing as much as I was burning. my alternatives were a re-man@ 1350 or a new one for 2350.
 
Scot this is from Piers site:

All fuel pumps are new

89-93 VE Pump

$1375. 00



Not reman, new price.



I'd also call Scheids up, they are 90 miles away in Effingham,IL. They might rebuild it cheaper and better than local.
 
geezzz

I have GOT to get my test stand in operation. I want some of that gravy.



Water in the fuel. Lots of owners fail to drain the filter can. You can do that while the engine is running and purge the water trapped there.



Brian the bleed screw hole can be used temporary for a guage. Pressure there or variation will tell you more than a vacuum test. But I don't think the equipment you mention will be what you need. Unless there is a severe blockage, there won't be enough vacuum to measure.



Speaking of smell, a diesel that is jam up has a slight gunpowder smell. Not raw powder but burned. I describe it as pukie sweet. I think it is the nitro burning in the powder and the NO2 in the diesel. This is especially noticable in the early Jimmy diesels. You probably never was around a new Jimmy. Most of them stink to high heaven. (Trailways/greyhounds)



James
 
Two more posts before I could reply on the first two! I used to drain water regularly but the trucks been sitting for a year and could have got condensation in it, I have seen that wipe out main bearings on restart. I had pump problems before this idle period though and attribute it to 495+K mi, poor maint from previous owner and being around since 8-88 not to mention poor fuel at times. I thought the smell of my 238 was to remind me it was running.
 
I hooked up a temporary boost guage (attached to my mitivac) and bought a oil psi guage I figure can be used as a fuel gauge from the local auto parts store. Looks like I will need to get a hollowed out banjo bolt (from geno's?).



What kind of boost pressures should I be getting?



I have seen it as high as 19 psi but that's only when I get up to 85-88 mph indicated most often its significantly lower.



Brian
 
I drove the truck about 30 miles tonight "at dark" and the boost readings seem about the same as earlier in the day, 19 psi max.
 
btoscano said:
I am not sure if its related, but I was curious about the fuel pickup sending unit. There are 3 screws that hold the bottom to the top part. I was able to slide this up and down to variable length. I am wondering if that is moving around in the tank or if that is even appropriate. I am wondering if, when fuel gets hot, there is less resistance and this pickup is moving around too much? When I installed it, I put some washers behind the screws so the two parts don't ride up and down. Please tell me if this is bad or good!



Bad



The purpose as near as I can figure is to keep a reservoir of fuel around the pickup, especially when the tank starts to get low on fuel. When the slide bottoms out, a valve closes, so the return fuel is captured in the sliding cup. In fact if you locked the cup at the top of the slide you are capturing warm return fuel from the engine sooner that normal. Also the fuel gage sending unit is mounted on the cup so it won't sense the level in the tank properly.
 
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Too bad I didn't take a picture.



There is a rought mark into the metal which acted as (1) a sliding "stop" against the lowest screw OR (2) where the factory meant the two halves to be locked in place. I figured it was meant to be locked in place because it did not slide up and down very easily and also to make the fuel gauge more accurate. The metal on either side was worn (shiny) above the rought mark mentioned which suggested to me it was sliding up and that I might have locked it in the lowest position?



At 7. 5 gallons from full, it was nearing 1/4 tank on the gauge. I have not put enough miles since yesterday to know the complete accuracy. This weekend I will (hopefully).



Brian
 
The truck is still giving me problems and more frequently they are in the evening. I should receive my hollowd out banjo bolt from Geno's soon to check fuel pressure.



I am really doubting fuel pressure as the problem but who knows. Generally the truck will hold speed it just takes a lot more throttle. If the hill is steep enough to need more fuel it may slow down.



What is the mechanism in the pump that limits amount of fuelining? I am wondering if its getting "stuck" sometimes at the "current fueling level" instead of the "maximium allowed". Is this a reasonable guess assuming no restrictions in the fuel line or fuel pump?



Thanks,

Brian
 
I am also wondering what kinds of special tools, i. e. bent wrenches, people use to take off an on the fuel injector high pressure lines?



Thanks,

Brian
 
One other question. Regarding the fuel return line, what happens if there's a restriction here? Does pressure build up inside the pump and cause low power? Does it leak out through overflow valve? Is there a good way to check pressure here and what are the allowed limits?



TIA,

Brian
 
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