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VE parts help.

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I need help finding VE part vendor's friendly to the guy who wants to do things themselves. I ordered KTA's last 14mm H&R for my seized pump. I got some new return springs (the blue ones) but still need the button that goes between the cam plate and plunger, and the two washer set that goes between the return plate and plunger. The local shop is giving me a song and dance about needing to have "HIM" install those parts and that they come in different thicknesses yadayadayada... ... So anyone that has a "Buddy" at a an injection shop that can help me or have any used parts to forward, please let me know. I don't care how far they are from me. I will pay the freight to avoid the blank stares of the local bureau of misinformation.
 
Rebel Ram,



Sorry I don't have any references for you but, I would just like to share a common experience. I'm somewhat limited in choices living on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I once visited a local authorized Bosch service center to purchase my 366 spring. The technician seemed helpful on the phone so I started to 'pick his brain' while there in person by asking questions about modifiying the VE. He kind of held back while answering me indirectly. I felt as if it was a big taboo to even take the top cover off the pump. It was as if he had some code of honor to follow and that the only things done to a pump was in the "authorized" Bosch manual. I know we void our warranties with the mods we do but c'mon now. Good luck.



Aloha,

Matt
 
There is a ton of different thicknesses of washers and buttons for the plunger and return springs. The only way to select the proper button is by doing port-closure on the test stand. Some pumps are set using the Bosch "k" dimension. This measures the distance between the top of the plunger and the machined surface of the head when the pump is assembled using a given button. If the spec is 3. 4mm for example, and you have 3. 5mm, then you need a button that is is . 1mm thicker. Port-closure on the other hand can only be set on the test stand by seeing how much plunger lift you have before fuel fill port is closed off and the start of injection happens. If you don't get the right button in there then you will have major timing issues and could possibly sieze another head. The washers on top of the springs are also selectable and are set the same way except the pump is not assembled. It is checked by assembling just the H&R assy and then measuring the distance between the top of the plunger and the machined surface of the head without the springs loaded. Then you select the proper washer thickness until you meet the Bosch spec. This is what sets the proper amount of preload on your return springs so that you don't have a head siezure or a sometimes a rough running problem at high engine speeds. Most people get away with re-using what came out of thier pump when overhauling it b/c it is was set at the factory or by a previous rebuilder and chances are is still very close to the spec. I would highly recommend that you pay the extra amount for a shop to do it so that you don't end up siezing another head. Just my . 02.
 
It's pretty well been my understanding that Bosch won't sell repair parts to individuals or non-authorized and certified rebuilders - and no doubt THEY can get in hot water and potentially lose Bosch certification if they go against company policy.



Besides, as pointed out in the post above, proper adjustment of most of these pumps really isn't a job for a casual or shadetree mechanic - some settings and adjustments can be pretty critical for proper operation...
 
Thankyou all for your replies. This was the kind of answer(s) I was hoping to get. Well explained and with detailed reasons. I went and spoke with the owner of the local shop today and he gave me a more "Warm and fuzzy" feeling. He talked about the port opening and proper plunger lift. I told him what I was doing and he was curious about the parts I was getting and so we struck a deal on HIM doing the Button and shim stack setup. We talked at some length about peripheral things too. I think he was trying to feel me out some to see if I knew anything about what I was doing. As I answered his questions I think he's coming around to be more cooperative. Maybe by the first weekend of next month I'll have this pump back in Big Ugly and I will be all :) s.
 
KTA put my 14mm pump together and didn't use any test stand. Maybe this was because my pump wasn't trashed? All I sent him was a gasket kit and then he also replaced the plunger return springs with the high rpm springs.



Edit: if you want I can send you some diagrams with a breakdown of the entire injection pump with part numbers for each piece:cool:. PM email addy. Be patient too lol.
 
My suplier will sell me any of the individual items I may need. I even have them send me (via e-mail) parts breakdown in the PDF what-ever format. The pumps had several different pages of the parts exploded view. The hydraulic head is seperate from the KSB etc.
 
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