VE pump HP

[ezcurra]

Hello,

I'm having a discussion with someone who says that a VE-pump 6BT can not get 225HP to the wheels without relatively expensive modifications. Does anyone have any supporting data (preferably dyno results)?

Thanks,

Mikel

 

[sdstriper]

It is my opinion that properly gauging our trucks would be more expensive than achieving 225 HP. Sorry I don't have dyno results for you. It is a common thought on the diesel forums that there is approximately 100 "free" horsepower to be gained in pump mods etc.

 

[MEby]

I think that 225 hp should be pretty easy to get. Mine was running around 280-300 hp when the pump croaked. This was not dynoed, just based of other factors including "the butt meter". The above cost me around $500. 00. Guages cost another $225. 00 or so. I have also been finding out that not all pumps are equal.

 

[cerberusiam]

Hello,

I'm having a discussion with someone who says that a VE-pump 6BT can not get 225HP to the wheels without relatively expensive modifications. Does anyone have any supporting data (preferably dyno results)?

Thanks,

Mikel

The only expensive thing about 225 HP out of a stock VE is the amount of fuel you burn playing with that power. :-laf:-laf



The 225 HP number is stock on some engines, just not in these trucks. A few turns on a couple of screws and a different fuel pin and Voila! Its relatively easy to get to around 250 with just pump adjustments and a few mods.



I dynoed my 92 right a 300 HP with stock +10% rebuild and a set of POD injectors.



The cost to get the power to the rear wheels on an auto is in the transmission not the pump and fuel system. The manuals will easily do that number withno drive line mods.

 

[dpuckett]

Yeah, VE modifications have come a long way in the last 5-7 years. Who ever had that info was about 5 years behind the current data. I know a lot of guys are topping 300RWHP with a stock 12mm rotor and pump head.



I remember when 250 RWHP was about it- 16cm housing, PW injectors (remember when they were cheap?), 3. 5" exhaust, K&N and about 1-1. 5 turns on the fuel screw and you were "compromising pump longevity" and at the max for a 1stGen. Not the case anymore.



DP

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Look my sig. The numbers there are from a dyno run in Meridian on 5/19/07. You can also check my post on this site 441/865 on W/M.



Bob

 

["Mad Max"]

You may be able to get 225 hp with no bolt-ons, just pump tuning, maybe. But, with the usual bolt-ons and some small-but-effective pump tweaks, you'll get a bunch, in my case over 250 hp.



This is my chart from a dyno run after all the mods (listed in sig) except the fuel pin - it wasn't in yet. These numbers are 'at-elevation' at the rear tire number, straight up - no modifiers. This is what the truck did at the rear tire at around 6800 ft elevation. Sea level would roughly be 15% more, approximately 290 hp / 646 Tq. Pretty good numbers for an old 1st gen



Total cost for the 'power' mods, about $1600. Gauges/transmission stuff not included.



#ad




- M2

 

[ezcurra]

Thank you all

 

[glhs]

With zero money you can do this; turn the fuel screw in as far as you can without runaway (40-80 hp), turn the fuel pin to the deepest setting (10 hp), shave the fuel pin washer to half thickness (10 hp), grind the foot off the AFC lever (15-30 hp), back out the high idle adjustment as much as possible (400 more rpm), and if you like noise, cut out the muffler (5 hp?).

With little money add these; 14 or 16 cm non/gated exhaust housing ($175/10-20 hp), PDR fuel pin ($100/20 hp), ) POD injectors ($440/50 hp) or (Dynomite Diesel stage 4s $850/100 hp) and 366 gov. spring ($15/400 more rpm). What am I leaving out?

Gauges? We don't need no stinkin guages! hee hee

 

[Leper]

With zero money you can do this; turn the fuel screw in as far as you can without runaway (40-80 hp), turn the fuel pin to the deepest setting (10 hp), shave the fuel pin washer to half thickness (10 hp), grind the foot off the AFC lever (15-30 hp), back out the high idle adjustment as much as possible (400 more rpm), and if you like noise, cut out the muffler (5 hp?).

With little money add these; 14 or 16 cm non/gated exhaust housing ($175/10-20 hp), PDR fuel pin ($100/20 hp), ) POD injectors ($440/50 hp) or (Dynomite Diesel stage 4s $850/100 hp) and 366 gov. spring ($15/400 more rpm). What am I leaving out?

Gauges? We don't need no stinkin guages! hee hee

This is the post I have been searching for!

 

[MPalmer]

i have turned the fuel screw in as far as i can without runaway, turned the fuel pin to the deepest setting, i didnt shave the washer down under the fuel pin i just found a lock washer and made it flat, ground the foot off the AFC lever, no high idle adjustment screw, 5" homemade exhaust with no muffler, stock fuel pin, POD injectors, 366 gov. spring, stock auto transmission and stock HC1 turbo with the big ol' smoky 21cm and with my setup im pushin 36psi out of the turbo and pegin the egts real fast... i can pour out black smoke on take off and even with the turbo spooled it smokes nuff that i cant see thru it... for some reason ppl next to or it back dont like it#@$%!:-laf its 6200lb and back in dec. i had 305/75/16 tires out back and i was runnin 14. 9 on the 1/4mile and now i have done some little changes and i know it has more power

 

[MEby]

i have turned the fuel screw in as far as i can without runaway, turned the fuel pin to the deepest setting, i didnt shave the washer down under the fuel pin i just found a lock washer and made it flat, ground the foot off the AFC lever, no high idle adjustment screw, 5" homemade exhaust with no muffler, stock fuel pin, POD injectors, 366 gov. spring, stock auto transmission and stock HC1 turbo with the big ol' smoky 21cm and with my setup im pushin 36psi out of the turbo and pegin the egts real fast... i can pour out black smoke on take off and even with the turbo spooled it smokes nuff that i cant see thru it... for some reason ppl next to or it back dont like it#@$%!:-laf its 6200lb and back in dec. i had 305/75/16 tires out back and i was runnin 14. 9 on the 1/4mile and now i have done some little changes and i know it has more power

Just a thought here, seems like the VE dont like to be turned up all the way without large injectors. We (a couple mechanic buddys of mine) think thats why my pump fried a couple month ago. I think it has something to do with the higher pump pressures. Anybody care to verify this?

 

[dpuckett]

It is a definite area of concern, esp a fee years ago when not many had pushed the limits of the pump. It depends on how said power is used and applied. It seems to be the consensus here that sudden hard starts (stomp the pedal to the floor, as opposed to taking 1-2sec to get to the floor), coupled with sudden uplifts of the foot (rather than easing out of it over the course of a few seconds) seem to make them wear faster.



MPalmer- your auto wont last too long at that power and temps, and neither will your engine. Get some more air NOW!!!! Good excuse for a HX40 or S300/400 turbo upgrade. While some drag racers and pullers will see 1800deg, how long do their engines last? Just some friendly advice.



Daniel

 

[MPalmer]

yeah i have known for awhile that i will probly end up breakin or meltin somethin :{with that kinda power without more upgrades and i had been pushin 32psi for over a year and atleast 3 months pushin 36... and for some reason i cant help but plant my right foot every chance i get and if theres somebody in a sports car that wants to go i go and i know that it dont help with me lettin off real fast ether cuz i know im gonna break it and then no more fun for me:{ i dunno i just cant help it... do yall think theres any help for a guy like me?:-laf..... i know not smart but have pulled a gooseneck loaded with round bales more than once so i know it can pull too







i am plannin on gettin a turbo from a buddy of mine so i wont have to worry bout that for awhile.