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vibration at 60+

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Bilstein?

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I currently have 46K on the clock.

transmission, both diffs and x-fer fluids chaged at 12K with AMSOIL. I will be changing these this week/weekend.

both real drive shaft u-joints changed at 39K

Front u-joints need to be changed

front steering u-joints NEED TO BE CHANGED(have parts need time and experience)



When accelerating hard no abnormal vibrations can be felt. But when I hit about 60 I can feel it in the seat and pedals. At 70 I can hear it, feel it in the seat, pedals, and steering wheel. I can also see the vibration in the mirrors. At 65 the vibration in bearable.

at speeds above 60 trying to maintain speed with out the cruise control on when I let mu foot off the accelerator the vibration seems to disappear but will reappear when I try to accelerate or maintain speed. Either drive shaft does not have any big dings or appear to be bent. But i will be looking at this this week.



Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem may be?

Thanks in advance.
 
I went through several years, lots of miles and a few trucks without ever having driveline vibes. I recently switched trucks around buying an '03 2500 QC SB Hemi for my wife and a '06 3500 QC LB Cummins for myself. The Hemi truck had 60k on it and had a vibe. U-joints did not fix it, a new driveshaft did. They told me one of the yokes was bent. Now the '06 has a pretty substantial vibe right at 70, 65 is fine, 75 is fine. I can see that the joints in the rear section have been replaced and possibly the carrier bearing that only the lwb trucks have. It is going in this week and I bet they will end up replacing the whole shaft again, though due to the one speed vibe, I kind of suspect the carrier bearing. The Hemi truck was bad over a range starting around 60 and getting worse as you went faster.
 
x-fer case fluid was burnt to a crisp. Not much red left in it, didn't see any metal flakes in it.

axle fluids were DIRTY!. Some metal but not much for 30k.

Now one of my brand new Spicer u-joints on the rear drive shaft is squeaking. I'm going to give it a good dose of grease and see if it comes back.

transmission fluid, bands and temp sensor are on the list for this week.



On a side note. ABS/Brake light on, sometimes resets by its self for a second. If I have my foot on the brakes slightly the pedal will start to pulsate and the steering wheel will pull to the right. My guess is the left front sensor has messed up and makes the computer think that that wheel has stopped or slower than the others but lets the other brakes function normally. This is on dry pavement and the brakes/steering work normally when the ABS is not functioning

Does the ABS fall under powertrain warrenty?
 
I got the front and rear drive shaft disconnected to day and one of my new u-joints on the rear axle looks like it lost all its needle bearings on two opposide sides. I get about 1/8 inch rotational movement. That would account for the vibration and the super loud thud when I would shift into drive. I reinstalled the front drive shaft and but the rear in the bed for the sole reason I don't want it to fail and drop the shaft on the pavement. On the way into work the vibration and noise is WAY down but there is still some which I think is coming from the front drive shaft.



I ordered a new rear Spicer 351 and 3 for the front drive shaft. When I had the front off I could not get the double cardan to snap off center like the manual talks about. Why does the front double cardan need to do that?
 
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