Vibration Hell

[gnjsmall]

I am vibrating like crazy at 30 MPH and then again from 50 to about 70. The ailignment does not seem out and I have normal tire wear. I did bump a curb from the side last winter, but the vibration only got bad a few weeks ago coming down from the mountains. Since then I have replaced the transmission (needed to anyway but thought it was the problem). Tires are Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/70R17's balanced last week.



Any ideas?



2005 2500 4x4

Banks Air

Banks Monster Exhaust

ATS Stage 2 transmission

ATS Arc Air

 

[BGlidewell]

wheel weight check time!

 

[Slow Six]

Just a hunch but it could be a u joint(s). They do some weird things when they go dry and start to seize. When my first two went the truck would shake like crazy form a start and than again when coming to a stop. There are a lot of threads on here about this. A lot of the guys had various shakes/vibrations at different speeds and most of them came from u joints problems. Most times they look good and you can't get any play in them but they will be dry.

 

[gnjsmall]

Thanks Slow Six. There is no play in them at all so I figured they were fine, but I know they really take a beating up here in Colorado. It is definitely worth a try.

 

[HBarlow]

U joints often fail because they dry out and bind at certain angles as the shaft rotates. The OEM joints don't have zerks so they can't be lubed and are expected to fail at some point.

I had one on my '08 dry out and start binding a few months ago at only 70k+ miles. It showed up with road vibration. You'll have to remove the driveshaft from the truck and rotate the joints to feel the binding.

Are you certain the tire shop balanced those large tires properly? The first and cheapest cause of highway vibration is often poor tire/wheel balance. Some tire monkeys don't really know how to operate the fancy balance equipment.

 

[RVTRKN]

HBarlow is correct, you won't be able to feel play if its seized up, "been there done that". Came to a stop (at 55K on my 04. 5) in Las Vegas and felt it and when starting out at low speeds the same vibration. Checked all U-joints then took it to a drive line shop, found middle U-joint seized up. Latter the vibration started slightly again, just before warranty was up, but this time I'm at home and could take it to my Dealer. They just replaced the whole rear drive shaft and I never knew which one it was, but it went away.

 

[HHhuntitall]

All good suggestions above, but don't forget to check for a tire seperation, as well. Hopefully not the problem, but it's soooo common, especially on Goodyear tires(I know you said Nitto). Jack up each corner and spin the tires to check for elevations or uneven wear in the tread areas. If a cord separation has occured, it will feel just as you describe. There's no cure for it, and if you run offroad, it's a common failure. It's been my experience that once a siezed or failed u-joint reaches a specific velocity, it vibrates from there up. The two ranges you give for vibration tell me to look for tire problems, such as balance or separation. Just my suggestion.



God bless you and yours,

 

[zzman]

Fought with my vibration a couple years.

Found to be the tires (on my trailer). are you towing?

Just a thought.

 

[rjones]

I am vibrating like crazy at 30 MPH and then again from 50 to about 70. The ailignment does not seem out and I have normal tire wear. I did bump a curb from the side last winter, but the vibration only got bad a few weeks ago coming down from the mountains. Since then I have replaced the transmission (needed to anyway but thought it was the problem). Tires are Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/70R17's balanced last week.



Any ideas?



2005 2500 4x4

Banks Air

Banks Monster Exhaust

ATS Stage 2 transmission

ATS Arc Air

I feel for ya brother, I have the exact same problem... I do not tow... .

 

[gnjsmall]

It was the rear U-Joint. You guys were dead on. I have not been towing much this year (thanks to a lack of funds to take a vacation). What funds I had ended up getting poured into 8 injectors and 8 glow plugs on my Wife's 6. 0L Excursion!!!!



One of the caps on the rear ujoint was broken in pieces and staying in place due to friction. I replaced the front and rear. After trying to wrestle them out with a huge vice, one of my buddies came over and cut the things out with a torch. The factory joints have longer caps than the replacements and they are a total pain to get out. Vibration is completely gone. The only thing I feel now is the nice purr of the exhaust. The new rear joint now has a zerk.



Thanks to everyone for the help! Saved me hundreds having a mechanic 'trouble shoot'.



- G

 

[bsnemt]

Glad you got to the bottom of the vibration.

I've noticed similar symptoms with my truck. '06 2500 with just shy of 60k miles, only i feel the vibration at exactly 30mph and then again at 60mph any change +/- by 2-3mph and the vibration goes away. I've also noticed that the passenger side back corner of the pickup bed shakes some during this vibration too.

I'm thinking tires (Goodyears!), or u-joints...

After reading this I'm getting my tires rebalanced/inspected and then maybe its time for joint surgery!

Stay tuned... any ideas are appreciated

 

[FTotts]

Well gentlemen, I have the same vibration issues. I also have Good for a Year tires. I am on my out to the garage to remove the drive shaft and inspct the u-joints. I have about 124,000 on the truck and thus far have replaced both front wheel bearings, both front wheel joints, the upper and lower ball joints are next on the hit parade but will have to wait til warmer weather. I am thinking Dyna track only because they are a little less expensive than the Carli's

 

[FTotts]

So Drive shaft has been removed u-joints inspected and replaced. Out of the three, two of them were shot. Since I was in the neighborhood I replaced the third one. The test drive seems to indicate the vibration is gone but is is snowing and raining now and the roads are so slick it is hard to tell... ... ... . It is always something I guess

 

[wcjp]

I verified my middle Ujoint was bad with temperature. The middle Ujoint was 10deg warmer than the other two after a 30mile drive. Once the driveshaft was removed from the vehicle the problem was obvious. On the vehicle the bad Ujoint appeared tight.

 

[SRadke]

Third gens seem to need u-joints and ball joints by 100k. Many long before 100k.

-Scott

 

[FTotts]

Well the better roads this morning tell the tale. the vibration is still there. I want to replace the carrier bearing but am unable to find one. Anyone got any ideas? seems to be a steeler item only.

thanks

 

[Lordsman]

I've got the drivetrain shudder/vibration. . feel it mainly on takeoff and when slowing down. Some vibration when cruising also. Crawled under there and the rubber brace in the bracket at carrier between shafts is worn and there is about 3/8" of play. Also one of the u-joints looks to be oozing a bit. I'm thinking of getting a single aluminum driveshaft from Doghouse Diesel Performance, $595. 00 shipped to my door. I hear this is a good mod for us with the split shaft problems. I'm a new owner of this 2004, 3rd gen. and this is quite noticable. I've had zero issues with my drivetrian on my '99(181k). Haven't even change a u-joint yet! Sorry to sort of change the subject but it seems to coincide.

 

[rscurtis]

A friend just installed that on his '03, it's the way to go. Has larger u-joints also.

 

[Prairie Dog]

You won't be sorry with the 1 pc. My truck never felt so smooth, even when it was new.

 

[Lordsman]

Just ordered the single piece driveshaft. Was this an easy install for those who have done it?