Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP-44 changeout, how to bar engine using alternator, pictures of "key"

[Lockard]

I've seen in some posts that the engine can be cycled by using the alternator nut in order to move the "key" to TDC in the VP-44. Does anyone know what size the nut is or have any advice on performing this. Also, does anyone have pictures of the "timing key" in the VP-44. I have read enough horror stories about dropping this into the front of the engie that I wnat to ensure that it doesn't happen. Knowing what it looks like would be a good place to start.

 

[J.Keith]

I don't know about dropping the shaft key, but I dropped the washer down the front cover when I did mine.

I couldn't figure out how the alt. thing either. I just pulled mine wherever it happened to be. Seemed to work fine. Other than dropping that washer. That sucked.

Hope this helps,

Joe

 

[Joe Mc]

When I did the valves on mine I used the alternator nut method and an old ratcheting torque wrench. The long handle on the torque wrence made it fairly easy to turn the motor. Forget what size it was but, since I don't remember going out for a new socket I don't think it was larger than 1-1/4".



MHO - I've read the horror stories about dropping the key here also. If/when I do mine I'll be doing the TDC pre-removal thing.



Good luck.

 

[OPoole]

Use a 15mm on crank bolts

 

[FourBarR]

alternator nut 22mm. works with long handel ratchet. dont know about the key ,never have had to change the pump. now have 336000km or about 200000k.

 

[keimmmo]

I just grabbed and tried sockets 'til I found one that fits. It isn't huge.



On my truck the alt would turn the motor fine one direction but would slip when I tried to turn it the other way. I could add belt tension with my finger and get it to turn the other way... just don't remember where I pushed.



I consider this to be the most practicle method to rotate the motor for valve adjustments and changing the VP-44 that I have ever found!



Steve

 

[B9Mile]

Some pictures and other info for the pump shaft's numbered offset key are here:



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_feb98/fuel_sys.htm

 

[Lockard]

Thanks everybody. That's exactly the info I needed. I'll be tackling the job this weekend.

 

[Todd T]

use a mirror (stole mine from one of my wifes compacts) and a flashlight to make sure the new pump lines up with the keyway on the gear as you reinstall it. olot of folks pinch the key and smash them on the reinstall.



if you hold the mirror at about a 45 you can just look and shine the flashlight straight down and see the keyway and key.



also make sure you have the pump shaft and gear spotless. an oil film could cost you a sheared key. brake cleaner works good for this. let it drip dry and them blow it dry to make sure there is no oil on the shaft or gear.

 

[Lockard]

install done, thanks!

Finished the install this past weekend. Reman VP (from cummins stuff.com), LP and Wildcat Diesel High Flow Kit. Thanks to everybody in this thread and the site in general for all the information. Your input coupled with the factory manual made this job doable, albeit not fun.



A couple of notes from my experience.

Going slow is very important. I realized after I put the pump on that i hadn't cleaned the shaft or gear. Fortunately I had just put the mounting nuts on finger tight so there wasn't much to redo but it could have spelled serious trouble later.



Barring the engine with the alternator nut works well. Once the "key" is TDC the removal is pretty easy. A flashlight and mirror are a must. The pump gasket makes removal and install of the pump a little frustrating but it comes along eventually. I have never removed a gear before so I was a little nervous about this part. Again go slow. I used a T-type sterring whell puller from autozone ($11. 99) tightened the center bolt and two outside bolts (used the short air horn bolts here) a little at a time until all were pretty tight. I left it on there for a minute and heard a "ping" noise once the gear came loose. I guess I had applied just enough pressure to remove it.



Taking the battery out on the drivers side help's with clearance and a place to set the APPS when you remove it.



Replace the CPS when you change the VP44. I have done it the other way and it's not fun with the pump out it takes 2 minutes and the sensor is only $37. The nut on the CPS is 5mm female.



Again, taking the lines off in groups of three saves a ton of time and confusion. You can figure out which of the blue isolators to leave attached to keep them together if you spend a minute thinking about it.



The "star' drive bolts on the pump side of the mounting bracket would not come off. I had a T-50 start wrench and could not make it happen. I drove the old and new pumps to a garage and had the guy use his air gun to uninstall and re-install for me. It took him 30 seconds after I struggled with them for an hour.



Get a stubby 19mm and 17mm wrench. They will help with the injector lines