Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vp-44 Replacement

[Miller]

:--) Anyone have directions for a do it your selfer for a vp-44

 

[AKAMAC]

TTT

I've not done the job on my truck but pulling the the drive gear can be a PITA. All of the work I do is on gen-set equipment. I pull the injector lines off in groups of three and swing out of the way. The APPS needs to be removed to get access to VP mounting bolts. Maybe someone will chime in with real world advice for your application.



PS Don't over tighten the timing cover bolts, they will leak.

 

[rkressg]

REMOVAL of VP44 as per say a 2001 D/C Service Manual



1. Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.



2. Thoroughly clean fuel lines at cylinder head and injection pump ends. Thoroughly clean fuel injection pump and supply/return lines at side of pump.



3. Disconnect 9-way electrical connector at Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM)



4. Remove fuel return line at side of injection pump by removing overflow valve. Place rag beneath overflow valve to catch excess fuel.



5. Remove fuel supply line at side of injection pump by removing banjo bolt. Also remove same line at top of fuel filter housing.



6. Remove all high-pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. (NOTE: Do not remove apps, just remove the three bolts that hold it down and move it out of the way. Remove the fuel lines in two bundles of three lines. Oil dipstick does not have to be removed, once all the wires are loosened from the rear fuel lines, you can unbolt it and push it out of the way sideways not up and down. The engine lifting bracket once unbolted can just be pushed back without removing it from the vacuum line that goes through the middle. COVER the air intake with a rag to keep stuff out of the engine. )



7. Remove hose clamp at crankcase vent hose and remove hose from canister. (NOTE: this is the breather bottle on the front of the engine. After removing the hose, turn the plastic round canister counter-clockwise to remove)



8. Remove (unscrew) canister from gear cover.



9. Remove nut and washer retaining injection pump gear to injection pump. (NOTE: do not drop the nut or washer into the gear case, it is not fun to get out!)



10. Rotate the engine to 0deg off TDC on #1. The engine can be rotated with a barring tool such as Snap-On # SP371, MTE #3377371. (NOTE: Some people have has success rotating the engine by using the nut on the alternator, but I would suggest getting the tool, using a universal joint and a very long (4’) extension and ratchet and moving the motor from above the engine)



11. Insert barring tool into flywheel housing. (NOTE: on the left side rear of engine in the front of the bell housing adapter. It is covered by a large (1. 5”) black plug that can be pried out with a ¼” standard blade screwdriver)



12. Rotate engine until keyway is at 12 o’clock position. (NOTE: Get an inspection mirror and look into the hole where you removed the nut and washer. You will see a keyway, rotate this until the engine is facing directly up. There is usually a mark at 6 o’clock on the timing gear in white paint. This was added at original engine assembly to aid getting engine upright)



13. Use T-bar type puller to separate injection pump gear from injection pump shaft. Attach two 8*1. 25mm screws through puller and into two threaded holes supplied in pump gear. Pull injection pump forward until it loosens from injection pump shaft. Pull on gear only enough to loosen it from injection pump shaft. Pulling gear too far may cause damage or breakage to gear cover. (NOTE: get at least grade 10. 9 bolts to pull with. You usually need a length around 2. 5” bolt, depending upon your puller. Also, the gear can be very tight; you can spray the end of the shaft with some penetrating oil to help loosen it. )



14. Remove 2 rear/lower pump bracket bolts.



15. Remove 4 injection pump-to-gear housing bolts.



16. Remove injection pump from gear housing. Take care not to nick injection pump shaft on aluminum gear housing when removing pump. Also be careful to not drop pump keyway into gear housing. (NOTE: Ensure that you DO NOT drop the keyway into the timing gear, you will almost always have breakdown the front of the motor to get it out. If it falls out and you do not remove it, you will cause SEVERE damage to the engine upon cranking)



17. Remove the lower mounting bracket from the injection pump and mount on new pump. Tighten these two bolts firmly. You will need a TORX, somewhere around a size t50, but I can not remember.



18. For a core deposit refund, you will need to return the pump, keyway in the shaft, washer, and nut.







INSTALLATION

1. Inspect pump mounting surfaces at pump and mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage.



2. Clean injection pump mounting flange at gear housing. Also clean front of injection pump. (NOTE: Use some type of alcohol based cleaner such as brake cleaner)



3. Install new rubber o-ring at pump mounting area. (NOTE: this o-ring goes on the front of the pump. The o-ring should be black with a red-ring in the middle. This red ring should face out)



4. Apply clean engine oil to injection pump only.

The machined tapers on both the injection pump shaft and injection pump gear must remain absolutely dry, clean and fee of any dirt or oil film. This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.



5. Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined taper with evaporative type cleaner such as brake cleaner.

Keyway installation:



6. The pump/gear keyway has an arrow and a 3-digit number stamped at the top edge. Position keyway into pump shaft with arrow pointed towards rear of pump. Also, be sure that 3-digit number stamped on the top of keyway is the same as 3-digit number stamped on the (new) injection pump data plate. If wrong keyway is installed, a diagnostic trouble code may be set. (NOTE: ensure that the keyway number and the number on the injection pump are the same number. The numbers on the new pump might be different than the number on the old pump. )



7. Position pump assembly to mounting flange on gear cover while aligning injecting pump shaft through back of injection pump gear. When installing pump, dowel on mounting flange must align to hole in front of pump. (NOTE: This process of lining up the keyway on the pump shaft and the keyway on the gear is difficult and time consuming. Get a good mirror and take you time. DO NOT drop the keyway into the gear housing!)



8. After pump is positioned flat to mounting flange, install four pump mounting nuts and tighten finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull) pump to gear cover using mounting nuts. Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The pump must be positioned flat to its mounting before attempting to tighten mounting nuts.



9. To prevent damage or checking of components, tighten nuts/bolts in the following sequence:



a. Install injection pump shaft washer and nut to pump shaft. Tighten finger tight only.



b. Install 2 rear/lower pump mounting bolts finger tight only.



c. Do preliminary tightening of injection pump shaft nut to 15-22 ft. lbs. torque. This is not the final torque. [b/]



d. Tighten 4 pump mounting nuts to 32 ft. lbs. torque



e. Tighten 2 rear/lower pump bracket-to-pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs. torque.



f. Do final tightening of injection pump shaft nut to 125 ft. lbs. torque. Use barring tool to prevent engine from rotating when tightening gear. (NOTE: Step up torque on the pump shaft nut in increments of 20 ft. lbs. Slowly and smoothly use the torque wrench, DO NOT jerk the wrench. Once you have reached the final torque, wait for one minute and re-torque the nut at the final torque, remember to do so slowly)



10. Install canister to gear cover.



11. Install crankcase bent hose to canister and install hose clamp.



12. Using new gaskets install fuel return line and overflow valve to side of injection pump.



13. Using new gaskets, install fuel supply line to side of injection pump and top of fuel filter housing. Tighten banjo bolts to 18 ft. lbs. torque. (snug)



14. Install all high pressure fuel lines, intake air tube, accelerator pedal position sensor, air intake housing, engine oil dipstick tube, wiring clips, electrical cables at intake heaters and engine lifting bracket. (NOTE: Tighten all fuel lines at injection pump. Only tighten lines 2, 5, and 6 on the head to torque, leave lines 1, 3, and 4 only finger tight to bleed the system of air)



15. Connect 9-way electrical connector to Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM)



16. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries.



17. Bleed air from fuel system. (NOTE: This is difficult. If you have a bad lift pump, this will prove to be almost impossible. With lines 1, 3, and 4 loose, bump the starter, the lift pump should cycle for 20 seconds. Do this a couple of times to ensure fuel is pumped to the VP44. Now, crank until fuel begins to squirt out of the loose lines. Once fuel begins coming out of the lines, tighten them one at a time. The engine will eventually start, but it will take some time and care.



18. Check the system for fuel or engine oil leaks. (NOTE: Do not check around the high-pressure fuel lines with your hands. The fuel pressure is around 16,000psi and leaking fuel will severely cut you. If you suspect a leak, use a piece of cardboard and hold it next to where you think the leak is. )



Overall, the change is not as difficult as it may seem. #1 use common sense. #2 anti-seize all bolts and clean their threads. #3 do not drop the pump keyway. #4 Do not drop anything into the intake or down the intercooler.



This change should take between 3-4 hours. The only special tools needed are a T-bar puller, the engine barring tool, and a mirror. Just take your time and you can do it.



-Rich

 

[Amianthus]

http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html