Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vp44: Doing it myself. What tools needed?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
Okay guys as some of you have helped me with questions over the past week, my injection pump went out, damn lift pump, anyways i got my est. yesterday, $2111. 00, so out of sheer determination i have decided to do it myself, i have my haynes manual and my TDR mag. Issue #47. I know im going to need a steering wheel puller, which one? What as far as line wrenches for the injector lines metric im sure? And Patience(i have more of that than money)... Any info is greatly appreciated, any links to more directions are also appreciated if anyone has those... Other assorted metric im sure but... ???

The other reason for me doing this is they guy that gave me the est. he does not take credit cards and to be honest im thankful, not sure i would want that on a card:eek:



Thanks

James
 
I don't remember what size bolts are needed for the pulley, they are metric. Attached is a picture of the puller that I used. You need to work between the fan blades and there is one pair that is wider apart then the rest so look for them. Also make sure the the keyway is at the top before taking the pump out.



There is a bracket under the backend of the VP44 attaching it to the block for support, don't for get about it. The bracket is held onto the pump with a large torx head bolt, sorry don't remember the size.



A 3/4" wrench will fit the injector lines so no need for a special metric wench there.



Kevin
 
you will need a 13mm socket, a 10mm socket, a8mm socket, a 3/4 end wrench in regular length and a stubby length wrench is handy to have, a 17mm end wrench for the supply line at the injection pump, a 22mm socket for the injection pump nut at the gear, a gear puller for pullin the gear loose, a 15mm wabbley socket for the injection pump to gear housing nuts, you will also need a ratchet of corse and a 8'' extention for to remove the injection pump to gear housing nuts. Torque the injection pump nut to 125 lb/ft. The bracket on the pump that attaches it to the block that n7gxz is referin to has 2 13mm bolts holdin it and is attached to the pump with 2 t50 torx bolts
 
Last edited:
Don't take this the wrong way but : I LOVE YOU GUYS(TDR) LOL... Gary thanks a bunch and to you also N7. .
as far as any timing issues as long as i have that key at the 12oclock position then im in good shape that and i don't want to fish that little booger out either.

Thanks again
James
 
one more question, as far as a baring tool, what will i need and where do i need to place it to keep the engine from turning over while im taking injection pump nut loose from the gear. . Or will i need a barring tool. I also read someone said you could turn the key to the 12 position by turning the alternator nut to turn the engine...

Thanks
 
You are suppost to clean the new pump shaft and the taper in the gear before reinstalling the new pump - BTW. Said to use iso alcohol, for a dry fit. SNOKING
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. . This sounds pretty straight forward, now as far as any timing issues, will i need to worry about timing??
CCutshaw thanks thats a pretty good straight forward little link...
BTW i searched on Bluechip site, didn't find the gear puller that was in your link. Can these be purchased at any auto parts place?
 
Last edited:
If you set the keyway straight up before removing the gear on the old pump, and leave it there, when you install the new pump with the keyway straight up to match the gear, you timed it correctly. I made my own puller out of a heavy short piece of angle iron. Drilled two holes for high grade bolts and the shaft was sticking out of the front cover far enough for it to work fine. People talk about using the rear lift bracket, but the hole spacing did not line up. SNOKING
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top