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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP44 misdiagnosis - learn from my mistakes (long)

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Keep me in your thoughts

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 v timing questions

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I am posting this in the hopes it will be of some help to another person who, like me, isn't necessarily "wrench retarded" by any means but is sometimes daunted by the complexity of diagnosing problems with these beasts. If you're not interested in the "saga" version, jump to the bottom for a summary of my hard-knocks lesson. But it may be instructive for some to follow my admittedly flawed thought process as an amateur "shade tree" mechanic.



See my mods in the sig. Truck now has 185,000 miles, of which over 150,000 have been with the performance mods. In that time, I have had to replace numerous lift pumps and two VP44s. I have always had the Drag Comp and have always run with the pump wire tapped (soldered).



Since going to the Glacier kit and Walbro pump a few months ago, my VP44 has never seen less than 14psi and usually gets a steady 16. For reference, I mounted the Walbro on the frame rail forward of the tank, but chose to keep the factory fuel filter. My fuel pressure gauge is tapped at the supply line banjo bolt at the VP44.



My truck is a daily driver - empty. It hauls horses, cows, or camper trailer a handful of times per year. It has only been on the dragstrip once and, although I don't think I'm rough on it, I don't baby it either. We have a few Ford notches on our pistol... :)



Christmas Day here in Colorado we had miserable weather. Cold, snowy, icy, temps in the single digits to teens. My wife and I drove seperate rigs to the inlaws because I had to return home and go to work the next day.



Prior to getting there, I topped off with fuel which required a little over half a tank, and I added PS fuel treatment - gray bottle. The trip to the inlaws was uneventful, other than the weather. I commented to my son how similar it was to my recent drive from Indianappolis to Denver through the midwest blizzard you all heard about on the news earlier in December. My truck's Ranchhand bumper and grill caked up with ice, and ice was hanging from literally everything underneath.



At Grandma's, we shut the truck off and went inside. My truck sat for approximately 10 hours in low teens and single digit temps. I parked in a foot of snow and another 6 inches fell. For reference, I plug my truck in whenver possible during this kind of weather but regardless, have never had cold weather start issues. No plug was available here.



At 10PM, I headed out. The wait-to-start light came on a reasonable amount of time for the temps, and I started cranking. The truck fired immediately and I gave it some pedal. It didn't feel right so I kept my foot in it and revved it a bit. It ran rough. That's the best way I can describe it. As soon as I let off the pedal, it died as if starved for fuel. After that, I could not get it to catch and fire again.



Fuel pressure gauge read normal, I knew I had fuel, but nothing worked. Stunned, I looked for issues. I turned on the key and noticed that no lights were on on my Comp box. This was new. Having no other good ideas, I decided to eliminate that as a possible cause. I removed the Comp and it's harness. Still no luck.



I began to think - "what just changed?". Most recent event was topping off with fuel. Wondering if I got some bad stuff, I drained the fuel filter, bled out 3 injector lines, and tried again. This got the same result as before - Truck fired, ran rough above 1500 rpm, but as soon as I let it down to idle, it died as if out of fuel. Then I dumped one bottle of PS 911 (red bottle, water remover) into the tank and used another one in the fuel filter cannister. Bled injector lines, tried again, same result. Started, ran rough, no idle, and died.



Codes were now set but in my haste I had not checked for codes before removing the Comp box. I knew I could have caused codes that way but wasn't sure. 1693 was set but who knew what else?



I borrowed the father-in-laws truck to get home and to work the next day, and began making calls. I talked to three people - two mechanics I knew and trusted, and one mechanic closer to the truck who could do roadside repairs.



All three agreed that, although not conclusive, given my mods, my history, and the symptoms, a failed VP44 was high on the list of probable causes. I went down the following weekend with my little code reader and found that no codes were specifically related to failed VP44 but - as all three mechanics (and a few posts here on TDR) will confirm - a VP44 failure will not always throw a 0216.



In spite of my mods, my truck and I are getting to a stage in life where reliability and cost to keep on the road are more important than beating a Mustang at the light. I began soul searching. Was it time to dump this critter for a more reliable truck? This would be VP44 number three. And I hunt and fish in wild and wooly places. The prospect of my truck leaving me stranded is not a happy one.



But when I considered the cost of swapping this paid-for rig with all my accessories for a new truck payment and starting over, I decided it was time I grew up and learned how to do my own VP44 swap. After all, everybody knows that ol' Cummins has a lot more miles left in it, if I can keep the rest of the truck together.



I ordered a pump. It came and with some trepidation I started in after watching the videos that are helpfully posted elsewhere on this site. It really turned out to be not that big a deal and I was pretty pleased.



As I bled out the injector lines, it was my impression that the amount of fuel spraying out of lines 1 through 4 was significantly more than what I'd seen with the old pump. I got excited.



After everything was together, I tried to start it. It took some cranking but finally caught and roared to life.



Kinda.



It "seemed" a bit smoother but still had some stumbles at higher rpms. The final test was when I eased off the throttle and approached idle. Sure enough, below 1000 rpm, it choked off and died - as if out of fuel. Fuel pressure read 15psi.



Dang.



I fought back a panic, and logged back into the TDR. I searched and searched on my symptoms. I began to worry one of the million sensors on this dumb thing might be bad and me, with no diagnostic equipment (and no clue), would be buying sensors one by one, hoping to hit the jackpot. Crank shaft sensor, camshaft sensor, map sensor, tps sensor, dumbdriver sensor... on and on...



Then I stumbled across something that caught my eye. I read a post where someone said a Walbro pump should run absolutely quiet. If you hear any ticking noise from a Walbro, that means it's cavitating or sucking air. I remembered Chrismas night when my son was standing at my window while I thrashed my starter trying to raise the dead. He said, "what's that ticking noise?" I had checked, and it was from the pump, but I figured it was just a coincidence and ignored it at the time.



On connecting these two dots, I went down to the garage for a look see. There was a small puddle of diesel on the floor under my tank/pump area. I cycled the key to run the pump and, sure enough, the Walbro was making the slightest of ticking noises. More importantly, a few more drops of fuel fell to the floor. I looked underneath, expecting to find a loose hose around the pump, but all I could find was that the tank was wet on the outter side and the leak must be from somewhere up above.



I disconnected the fuel line from the input side of the stock fuel filter and put it in a bucket. Sure enough, when I cycled the pump, the fuel was coming in bubbly - almost foamy.



I'm no genius, but that couldn't be good. I made up reasons in my head why foamy fuel would create exactly the symptoms I had.

(continued next post... )
 
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VP44 Saga, Part II

So I rigged a hoist and raised the bed of the truck to inspect the top of the tank and fuel pickup/return lines. That area was fine - nice and dry. I cleaned the screen off the bottom of the cannister inside the tank. Although that definitely needed done, it wasn't my problem.



On a whim, I decided to put the intake hose to the Walbro in the same bucket as the output and see if it were really capable of delivering non-bubbly fuel.



Being no dummy (ok, a dummy with prior experience having diesel in my eyes) I knew that when I disconnected the hose from the input side of the Walbro, I'd have a I'd have a first class siphon running in that hard line from the tank lid to the frame rail.



So first I went up and disconnected the line at the tank lid. As I did, I just happened to glance down under the truck and noticed that for a few seconds, the drip rate of that mysterious leak sped up.



Aha! Can you say, "Culprit"?



Sure enough, when I put the input rubber hose in the same bucket as the output hose, that Walbro was so quiet and the fuel was so clear I actually had to pull the output hose up out of the bucket to see if it was really doing anything. Looked like liquid gold, I thought.



I went to Napa and got 5 feet of the thickest-walled fuel line they had. I connected it right at the top of the tank, inserted a straining filter, and connected it right to the input of the Walbro. The output was still clear and quiet so I put everything back together.



I bled lines 1,3 and 4, crossed my fingers, and fired her up. She caught immediately and began to hum like old times. Half afraid to take my foot off the go-pedal, I looked at my son and said, "If this thing won't idle, we'll just set it on fire and push it down the hill. "



I eased up, and it idled nice as pie. Me and my baby went for a nice test drive (with my son and cellphone following in a chase vehicle - just in case)



So now I own an extra pump. I owe Farmboy Diesel a core, but he said he'd bench test the one I send back and, if it's still within specs, I can hunt up a dead one on eBay to send him as a core and get the working spare back. Now that's cool! If nothing else, I've got a spare and the experience to swap it out. Or maybe some cold day somebody will look me up in the TDR travel directory, broke down in my neck of the woods, and need help. If that's you, let me know. I'm slow, but we can get'r'done.



So here's my summary of lessons learned:

1. VP44s suck, and so long as I drive a truck with one I will always be looking over my shoulder and it will unavoidably be my first fear when almost anything goes wrong. Next time a headlight burns out I'll probably have to stop a minute and say, "No, that's not from a dead injector pump".

2. VP44s can fail without throwing codes and can fail while still pushing fuel out the injector lines. However, if that's the case, it's worth a thousand bucks to try to find another cause first.

3. Walbro pumps, even mounted to a sounding board like the frame rail, should run completely quiet. Any sounds to the contrary, including ticking or clicking noises, should be a red flag that something is wrong with the supply.

4. Thanks to the TDR, even a dummy like me can do a VP44 swap - even if you didn't need one.

5. My comp box, which is an old one but had been updated to version 8 a few months ago, chose the Christmas Day episode to exibit for the first time the known problem of not powering on during severe cold weather. The Comp is fine and was only a diversion from my real problems that particular day. You can read more about that elsewhere on the TDR as well.



Early in my career as a computer geek, I was mentored by a guy who had this sign above his desk:



"Solve the right problem. Use the right tools. "



Believe me, I have thought about that a lot in the last couple weeks. I expect a few of you veterans will find my episode laughable. I hope at least someone finds it helpful.



If you have questions, I'll do my best. I know one question will be, "what codes were actually thrown?" I'm sorry to say I don't remember them off the top of my head but I do know they were not any of the common VP44 codes. If you disconnect a comp box while the ignition is on, it will throw a code. I don't know what it was but am confident that was it, along with a bizarre code that seemed to have to do with the ABS system. I can say that my truck runs fine now and there are no residual codes in the system.
 
Thanks for that great post. I think this is some valuable information and I am glad I took the time to read it. I pretty much have the same set up so because of this info I may be two steps ahead of any future problems.
 
I have and still do get intermittent problems with my glacier regulator. It sticks open, I loose pressure, I now carry a 2x2 piece of maple and beat on the side of it, and can see my pressure come back to 15. I also have two pressure guages and senders now, one pre and one post filter. I have needed to call rich and talk to him about this further but have not. I have in the past taken my reuglator apart and cleaned debri out of it, but that was last spring. And yes I use a pre pump filter.
 
I'm unclear on the problem then: Not sure I read what it was other than a leak that sped up when you disconnected the line from the top of the tank.



1. What was the problem leak exactly? Hole in the OEM fuel line somewhere?

2. What caused the hole if thats the case?

3. How did you connect the Napa fuel line to the top of the fuel module fitting? From experience, I remember having to grind the quick connect fitting to get 3/8" line to slip on.



PS: Getting a VP44 tested isn't a major deal anymore. But its not free. Expect $150 charge or something like that. Its a computer controlled process from what I understand that puts the VP through a series of tests. I had a spare once and didn't have it tested because of the cost and the fact I didn't 'have' to use it at the time.
 
Testing the VP44:



Brings up an interesting point. Should we have the VP44 "tested" every 100k miles or so to see if it is fundamentally sound and within limits? It might be worth $150 to find out that it is reaching a malfunction limit BEFORE it malfunctions.



So far we address the VP44 when it fails or throws codes as the first indication that something is wrong. We have no idea what condition it is in before failure, or imment failure. Should we preventative maintenance it every 100k miles to "give it a health checkup" to see how it is doing?



A lot more fun to know it is reaching a malfunction limit and plan its replacement, than in the rain on the side of some back road in the snow.



We may even be able to develop some sort of report back thread to gather data on how the VP44 was used (ever run biodiesel in what %, run fuel lubricant every tank, do not run fuel lubricant, run short trips, run long trips, not tow, tow, tow heavy, flat terrain, medium mountain terrain, heavy mountain terrain, live in cold climate, live in warm climate, what else????) what the mileage was on the VP44 and how was that VP44 within or not within the testing limits.



Could be the best data we have collected so far, or too much trouble?



Would the "testing" process also recalibrate our VP44 (IF it could be recalibrated)?



Bob Weis
 
"I'm unclear on the problem then: Not sure I read what it was other than a leak that sped up when you disconnected the line from the top of the tank.

1. What was the problem leak exactly? Hole in the OEM fuel line somewhere?"



That would seem to be the case - a hole in the OEM line, although I did not actually lay eyes on it. The hard line from the quick connect at the top of the tank goes down under the cab, between the tank and frame in a place that did not seem easily acccessible. I simply rerouted the rubber hose through a different path and hooked it up.



"2. What caused the hole if thats the case?"



Not sure, unless it was simple vibration over time and the hard line was rubbing against something. Interesting coincidences are that in the previous month my truck saw more miles in ice storm type travel than ever before. Also, it seemed to me the amount of mag chloride deicer I found in every nook and cranny of the truck was unprecidented. I don't know what kind of damage that stuff could do, but it was an amazing amount of white junk.



"3. How did you connect the Napa fuel line to the top of the fuel module fitting?"



Hose clamp - no issues there.
 
Liquid chloride is devastating especially to wiring and connections. Funny thing is yesterday I saw a State DOT chloride truck spraying the highway in anticipation of a snow storm. The spray bar was really laying it out. And there were cars right on his tail driving right through the liquid like it was rain. What idiots. Wipers on and all.



Anyhow... off the top of the tank there is usually a black plastic tube (kinda like air brake tubing) that is slipped over the special fuel tank fitting quick connect. I assume they heat the tubing once slipped over the connector for a tight seal. Maybe like heat shrink. The connector is barbed. Then that connector is plugged into the male fitting on the fuel tank module top.



That plastic tube runs down to the frame stainless tubing. The stainless tubing is flared on the end and the plastic slips over it... again probably heated and shrinks tight. The plastic is about a 12-16" run. The stainless (3/8" OD more or less) is then held in place along the frame using plastic blocks bolted or attached to the frame.



Here are my photos from a 99 deal I messed with. On that suction fitting on the module head... I ground the stop barb so I could slip the 3/8" hose all the way up. Then my short section is attached to a stainless tube I fabbed to make the twists and turns around the tank/frame until I had a straight shot along the frame up the the relocated pump. Just for reference.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=13345&albumid=933



In my opinion a hole worn in the tubing is unlikely, yet still possible if it rubs the top of the frame channel just enough. I think its single wall tubing from what I remember. The stainless being the culprit would seem very very unlikely since its isolated from rubbing and inherently "tough" stuff.



Now... in that quick connect fitting up on the tank... the male nub off the tank is solid plastic with barbs. The quick connect fitting on the tubing has a double o-ring seal inside it. They are yellow orings (on my old truck). Material??? I dont have a clue.



I'm just wondering if the quick fitting orings failed or if the plastic shrunk enough in the cold to cause air suction. Probably not since you said the top was kinda dry up there.



Would be neat to someday find the leak and verify. Would require removing the tank to really get in there and see. Obviously there was a leak so there has to be a hole somewhere. Stuff like that would drive me nuts until I found it.



Funny how this kind of stuff happens on the worst of days. Away from home, cold, parked in snow, gotta go to work etc etc. Is there any other way it happens? Hehe.
 
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The fittings on top of the tank were exactly as you described. Although I said that area up there was dry, I meant in terms of no leaking fuel. Truthfully, the whole lid on the top of the tank was caked with a dry, dirty, greasy muck that I spent quite a lot of time cleaning off - partially to prevent it from getting down in the tank, but also to clean out and hopefully improve the connection to the fuel gauge sensor.



This was my first venture into the top of the tank (on my truck) so these quick connects have not been touched since the factory. They appeared to be in good shape but again, as soon as the drip under the tank indicated I had just isolated the problem, I was in a hurry to get it on the road again and went for the bypass.



I did spend some time shining light down as far as I could see from the top, and as far up as I could see from the bottom. All I can say is that the leak is in such a location that it is not visible from either end, and neither end of that line is wet or dripping. The wet spot was on the outer (drivers) side of the tank. The crossmember under the tank at that point has a bit of a channel in it which carries the fuel to the middle of the truck where it drips out.



It looks to me like there's one bolt and clamp that secure that hard line to the frame down low. On a warmer day I could try undoing that and see if that frees the hard line enough to pull it out, but things sure are tight and twisted up in there. Complicating all this is my former OEM type lift pump, which was relocated to the frame rail is on a bracket, blocking most of my view and access to that end of the tank. That pump still works - I put the Walbro in before it died and left it there with a bit of hose as an easy roadside failover pump if the Walbro ever let me down.



So it ain't fun working up in there with my big hands. I agree with you that it would be really good to know what the heck went wrong up in there. But I don't mind confessing that this whole mess was a really lousy Christmas present, my truck was down for two weeks, and I just spent $1200 to fix a $20 problem. Frankly, I was sick of the whole thing and just wanted 'er back on the road. I am glad for what I learned, and maybe somewhere down the road I'll bail out another TDR member with that spare pump, but boy I sure lots rather drive a truck then skin my knuckles drinking diesel underneath 'em!
 
Yes. 15psi - but of foamy, bubble fuel air mixture.



My uneducated theory is that after manually priming the VP44 and getting it started, as long as fuel demand was high enough to keep fuel moving through at a good flow, the engine could run - not good, but it would run. When slowing down to an idle, I suspect there was enough air in the lines to effectively "de-prime" the VP44 and kill the engine, if that makes any sense.
 
Yes. 15psi - but of foamy, bubble fuel air mixture.



My uneducated theory is that after manually priming the VP44 and getting it started, as long as fuel demand was high enough to keep fuel moving through at a good flow, the engine could run - not good, but it would run. When slowing down to an idle, I suspect there was enough air in the lines to effectively "de-prime" the VP44 and kill the engine, if that makes any sense.



Ok So there must be a break in the hard plastic line and you were sucking air
 
So, having the comp malfunction at the same time you have 15psi of fuel, its no wonder you were lead on the wild goose chase.

I probably would have totally disconnected the comp and re-tried. Checked codes with a reader. Maybe borrowed a hot box and tried that (essentially eliminating truck wiring, sensors, ecm, etc).

Then would have still probably been stumped..... :rolleyes: (still suspecting a failed VP - thinking it was probably caused by a bad comp box)

You have paid your dues, but have come out much more knowledgeable about your truck now. Kind of hard to sell it when you know it. .

So the lesson here is, you NEED to check the quality of fuel arriving to the VP44. Sure would be nice to have a clear "sight glass" or something like that by the VP.

This story should be printed in the TDR mag. It is a real learning lesson. Thanks for sharing it.

Now Edge needs to fix their dang cold weather comp problem!! (if they haven't already)
 
It should had, had the code for lift ppump failure, no fuel



I probably shouldn't be allowed to have a code reader, for the same reason we don't let two year olds play with sharp knives. Too early in the process I cleared the codes, and I can vouch for the fact that after the initial episode, no other codes were set. I am pretty confident that in my hasty removal of the comp box, I caused those.



I can tell you that after clearing the initial codes, it never set any more and did not turn on the check engine light. And that was in spite of "force-starting" the truck by bleeding out injector lines and keeping my foot in it to keep the rpms up. Each time, after taking my foot off the pedal, it died as if starved for fuel, but did NOT set any codes.
 
I think you could check the quality of the fuel (for air bubbles,etc. ) at the filter by removing and one of the bleed plugs on top of the filter housing and observing the fuel while cycling the lift pump without starting the engine.

You would need someone to cycle the pump for you while it is observed.
 
Areated fuel will sometimes look normal on a pressure guage

Yes. 15psi - but of foamy, bubble fuel air mixture.



My uneducated theory is that after manually priming the VP44 and getting it started, as long as fuel demand was high enough to keep fuel moving through at a good flow, the engine could run - not good, but it would run. When slowing down to an idle, I suspect there was enough air in the lines to effectively "de-prime" the VP44 and kill the engine, if that makes any sense.

Pressure is not an accurate way to test actual fuel delivery,you need both volume and pressure.
 
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