Archived VP44 number came up today...

[KCramer]

Running ~2100 RPM cruise, my engine died suddenly and hard. I've been worrying about a 'stutter' at speed (nothing at idle) for about a month. Seems worst in the cold, but hasn't been too bad. Boost runs fine to 20PSI. I've got about 1000 miles on the filter.



Post filter pressure is 15#, and I never saw my telltale come on (~7#).



After the nice tow truck driver left, I pulled a pair of P1688 codes.



Before ordering a new pump, is there anything else anyone suggests I check?



Any opinions on a pump source?



thanks,

klc

 

[p-Bar]

There is a box the cummins shop can plug into the VP just for the double check that it's toast. This is one of Bosch's biggest remanufactured items

 

[fritzcartage]

VP44027X Bosch Reman VP44027 Fuel Injection Pump For 1998. 5 - 2002 Dodge Cummins



check this link out



you will want to replace the lift pump at the same time

 

[Sticks]

Central Motive Power in Denver, or Pueblo Diesel Injection (I think that is the name) in Pueblo for a VP. I don't know of any shops in the Springs.

 

[KCramer]

Thanks all -



Looking at the additional troubleshooting guides the TDR pointed me to, I placed the order with Midwest Injection (DieselStore) on Friday.



I read some posts regarding caution with the electronics in the MWFI - I confirmed before the order that the controllers are replaced with updated electronics, as required by Bosch.



Thanks to DieselDan for the youtube posts on the replacement, and to those who pointed them out - it gives me the confidence to proceed under the ole' shade tree. Now if we can just get rid of the snow...

 

[Joe Mc]

KCramer - now is a good time to add an after-market fuel delivery pump and loose the stock POS LP, if you haven't already. There are plenty available out there and asking here will totally bring up all kinds of suggestions. Best bet is search in 24V Engine and Drivetrain section type LP and stand by.

Have fun w/the VP swap - not too bad actually - scariest part is getting the gear to "pop" and when it does you'll wonder "did something break" - it's a fun job - really.

 

[KCramer]

Ack! I've spent about 5 hours so far trying to get the timing gear off the VP44 shaft. #@$%! Any hints?



Yes, I'm using a puller - needed to go buy hardened bolts cuz those bent. Its not the SP504 - none of the 3 snapon guys I called had one - the distribution hub in Nevada doesn't have one either. At least a week.



Yes, I have all six (four nuts, two bolts) out of the back side. The pump is loose enough to wiggle a little.



Any ideas?

 

[JLandry]

Ack! I've spent about 5 hours so far trying to get the timing gear off the VP44 shaft. #@$%! Any hints?

Yep... you'll need to use some heat!



See THIS POST for details.



John L.

 

[Joe Mc]

Crank as much as possible on the puller bolts and whack the center of the puller, crank, whack, continue. Hope this works for you, if not heat may be the only way.

When you put it back together apply a bit of anti-seize so if it ever has to come back off it may not be so hard.

 

[Sticks]

It does not happen often but when it does, it can be a PITA. More than ever make sure that key is at 12 o'clock!

I'd even go as far as to thread the mounting nuts back on a couple of turns so the pump does not launch when that gear pops.

Not trying to be a smart ***... you did take off the pump shaft nut and washer, yes?

 

[Sticks]

Keep us up to date. We have a TDR get together in Denver today. Maybe you could come by. I'll have to see what my sched is for the rest of the weekend, but I may be able to help you out.

 

[KCramer]

Appreciate the feedback - and yes I did remove the nut and washer, just overlooked putting that in the post.



Key is at 12:00 - I have the top outboard nut still on the stud to prevent a sudden pump exit.



I appreciate the simple questions - no counting the times I've missed a bolt.

 

[Sticks]

Time for some heat. Propane is not going to cut it. Oxy-Acetylene torch. The yellow propane style gas may work, not real familiar with it.

 

[Joe Mc]

Anti-seize the puller bolt threads too so they allow some umph when cranking on them and don't bind up as you turn them. Man, I hope you don't have to use heat, but its been done successfully - just a bit tricky. The yellow style gas Sticks mentioned above is MAP gas and does get hotter than reg propane. If you get a "Turbo-Torch" torch they direct the heat more to where you'll need it (gear not shaft) than a regular torch. Obviously, tighten the bolts on the puller as you heat the gear, tap puller, heat, tighten a bit, tap - ect. Keep us up to date - I'm biting my fingernails and keeping everything crossed for you . . .

 

[KCramer]

OK - it took a little while, and some fabrication of a puller that would allow me to tap on the VP44 shaft while still applying pull, but it's out!!!



Next question - the old pump (original I believe, 148K on it... ) is an '011' pump.



The MWFI reman I have (from running the engine serial number upon order) is an '027'.



Can anyone tell me the difference, and if they are interchangeable?



thanks all for the help so far -

 

[fritzcartage]

my buddy who used to work at mwfi says it could just be a newer version of your pump, if they sold it to you it should interchange no problem, physically they're the same, just the programming could be different when it was put in whatever truck it came from, but they should have programmed it properly

 

[Sticks]

The only time that there are compatibility issues is with a HO pump on a SO truck or vise versa. Presuming you specified your truck year and SO when you go the pump, you should be good to go.

 

[KCramer]

I've completed the installation, primed, and fired on the 5th revolution -



Again, thanks to all who helped. For those following this - the take away lessons for me are - make sure your puller doesn't extend into the fan - I needed to tap on the shaft to break this loose. And - Sticks' recommendation to mark the shaft in-line with the woodruff key was the ticket in the last little tweak getting the shaft lined up with the gear.



I did find a post elsewhere indicating the 011 pump was superseded:

STANDARD OUTPUT: 0470506005 S/S TO

0470506011 S/S TO

0470506015 S/S TO

0470506027

(credit to Bob Wagner)



And it seems to run fine. All told, it took about four hours, discounting the time getting the gear to break free.

 

[Joe Mc]

Oo. Glad to hear the gear came off and you're back on line Oo.