Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP44 - replace as PM or wait until it dies

[TboneMan]

First off, I have no indications that my injection pump is failing. That said, with over 220,000 miles on the OE VP44, is it worth replacing it before it dies or just let it go?



Who has replace their high mileage VP44 prior to failure?



Those who have had their VP44 fail, did it leave you stranded or did it occur slowly enough that you could fix it before catastrophe?



p. s. , I'm only on my third lift pump. Failures were at 63,000 and 213,000 miles respectively.

 

[JKreiss]

That's hard to say. If I were you and had the time and means to do it preventively, i'd do it. If you use your truck for business, it could really hurt you to have it leave you stranded. My 99' lost the first one at 110,000. The second was only 30,000 later, both were computer failures, nothing internal. My dad had his go via the lift-pump at 48k miles. If you can do it, i'd do it on your time, not fates. It only takes a day to get it done so it shouldn't be to much of a hindrance, just pricey! I'm sure there are a couple cases of guy's never replacing them in 3 or 4 hundred thousand miles, that's not the norm. Tip your cap to the old girl and the 220k you got out of it

 

[LSchulz]

I'll vote for run it until it dies. There's no guarantee that a replacement will last that even half that long, and I know of people who've run close to 400k on the original VP44. I'm on my third pump, and my second one only lasted 30k before the computer fried itself. I had plenty of warning that both of mine were on the way out.

If you're that nervous about it, pick up a spare (although you would have to deal with a core charge). They're really not hard to change out (I did the last one in my friend's driveway with a headlamp). If I hadn't been pulling the VO system apart to get in there, I would bet a swap could be done in 2 to 3 hours.

 

[CAPTPHIL]

I had 360,000 mi. on 98. 5 when I sold it. I had 540,000 mi. on the 01. 5 when I had the engine rebuild and mods. done. I felt that a new engine deserved a new VP. It was still running good. we bench tested the original and it was still within specs. although on the low end. The LIFE of a VP is three rules, FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, LIFT PUMP, FLEET GUARD FUEL FILTERS. As you can see I am still running the 01. 5 now at 652,000 mi.
Good Luck Capt Phil

 

[krtcummins]

We just replaced my sons pump, as the truck died. (Refer to my post regarding my review of the Blue Chip pump on this forum) My sons truck now has much better acceleration and fuel mileage by far over the pump that died. What it comes down to is a slow loss of timing, Etc. , that you don't really notice until you change out the pump. If it were me and I had the time, expertise and money to replace it, I would do it. Mine went out on my 01 at 67,000 miles. I am now at 108,000 miles and counting. Dodge replaced the lift pump when they installed the replacement pump. I have since installed the Dodge in-tank pump kit. We shall see how long this pump lasts. Hopefully it does not leave me dead on the road at some distant place with no cell reception.

 

[ArmandoCantu]

I'm with CAPTPHIL - FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, LIFT PUMP, FLEET GUARD FUEL FILTERS. Gauge let's you "see" and check your fuel pressure. The good aftermarket lift pumps are FASS and Air Dog - get one. Both come with Fleet Guard type filters. Mine died suddenly in the drive way - whew, @ 129,000 miles! Dealer fixed it (read expensive) and I installed the FASS 95 w/filters and a Autometer gauge right after. I run @ 13 psi with the FASS - I hope it lasts forever, both pumps! I may get a spare if i can find one cheap. Until then, I stay wary... .



MandoCantu: '00 2500 QC, Flexlite fans, ATS intake elbow, K&N filter, ATS 47RE & convertor, DT track bar and locator bars, Dynatrac hub conversion, 2" level kit, 3. 54 gear w/LSD, 35's on '06 wheels.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I say if it's held up this long I would keep the pump. It seemed the "good" ones were almost indestructible and could outlive the engine. The Red Rocket was soundly flogged by HVAC at the track and on the road, then raced regularly by the next owner after he passed away. After 8-9 years and well over 150k miles of hard use and abuse the engine finally was done for, but the original VP44 was still going strong. It was a '98. 5 2wd.

 

[RDHamill]

I agree with ManduCantu, guages, lift pump & filters should help the VP44 last longer. That said, might be a good idea to have your spare VP44 sitting on the shelf, that way you can buy it on your terms, and not when you're forced to.
good luck

 

[HBarlow]

First off, I have no indications that my injection pump is failing. That said, with over 220,000 miles on the OE VP44, is it worth replacing it before it dies or just let it go?

Who has replace their high mileage VP44 prior to failure?

Those who have had their VP44 fail, did it leave you stranded or did it occur slowly enough that you could fix it before catastrophe?

p. s. , I'm only on my third lift pump. Failures were at 63,000 and 213,000 miles respectively.

My experience with my '01 was similar to yours. The VP-44 was replaced due to a mistaken diagnosis by my mechanic friend and myself at somewhere between 100k and 150k and still works fine at 355k.

I would continue running the one you have until it gives up unless a breakdown would be intolerable for your work or travel needs.

 

[Rattler]

I agree about the gauge, filter and lift pump things, but, and this is the real killer, electronics have no particular life span and there is nothing you can do to prevent the on-pump computer from just saying i quit! Thats what happened to mine at 189K with no real warning. I travel a lot and was lucky that it happened 3 miles from my house. Randy

 

[John - K5AWO]

I agree about the gauge, filter and lift pump things, but, and this is the real killer, electronics have no particular life span and there is nothing you can do to prevent the on-pump computer from just saying i quit! ... ... ... ..... Randy

I am a retired Electronics Technician.

IF my stuff lasted more than a month, it passed the break in period.
After that, if treated within specs, the stuff just don't break. Actually, IF it lasted more than 72 hours of turn on/off repeatedly, it is a good one.

My first and hard fast rule is:
IF it ain't broke, Don't fix it... Folks who keep "fixing it" will end up with it broke.

Put a spare under the seat if that makes you feel better. The new ones have better electronics in them.

 

[TboneMan]

Thanks for all of the comments.



I guess maybe the best insurance is to purchase triple-A. At least the towing charge would be covered. The pump replacement is a "known" cost. The unexpected towing from "who knows where" with or without a trailer attached is a bigger worry.



Heck when my APPS stranded me, the towing bill was more than the repairs.

 

[Sticks]

Keep your eye out for a sale from a quality re-builder, and get a spare (keep the box sealed so you can legitimately resell as NIB if your pump does outlive your needs or the truck itself).



With the proper tools and following the proper procedure, the VP can be replaced and the truck running in 1. 25 hours +/- 30 minuets.



Proper maintenance is the key. Good fuel, filters, and gauges.



I have a coworker with a 99 2500 auto that has broke 600k miles. I did his first VP at 400k (dead LP). Ignorance is bliss in his case. Now running a OEM LP and the in tank pump (at 400k), still no gauges, still no problems either.



New trans at 500k (auto), 80hp injectors at 400k, radiator at 600k, rebuilt front end at 500k, still needs to reseal/replace vacuum pump, brake booster and fan clutch. Other than body damage to the bed, grill and the drivers seat is worn out, he should get another 600k easy. The engine is disturbingly clean (he never washes the engine compartment).

 

[RAJohnson]

Keep driving it. I just replaced mine @ 135K and it was still running, but throwing codes when on long drives or pulling loads. Never left me on the side of the road, altho I did have dead pedal a few time that made me wonder weather or not I was going to be a pedestrian.

 

[Sticks]

Keep driving it. I just replaced mine @ 135K and it was still running, but throwing codes when on long drives or pulling loads. Never left me on the side of the road, altho I did have dead pedal a few time that made me wonder weather or not I was going to be a pedestrian.

That right there would make me want to start carrying a spare VP and APPS under the passenger seat, along with all the required tools for the swap.

 

[KKlingbeil]

I for one am not going to carry $2000 worth of parts under my seat for the just in case. Should we all carry an extra transmission in the back too? Having parts on hand cost money. If your going to carry an extra around, why not install the new one and keep the old one as back up? As others have mentioned, they "normally" do not leave you stranded on the road, and "normally" give you pretty good signs that they are going south and soon. I also follow the "If it's not broke, don't fix it" motto.

 

[Sticks]

I for one am not going to carry $2000 worth of parts under my seat for the just in case. Should we all carry an extra transmission in the back too? Having parts on hand cost money. If your going to carry an extra around, why not install the new one and keep the old one as back up? As others have mentioned, they "normally" do not leave you stranded on the road, and "normally" give you pretty good signs that they are going south and soon. I also follow the "If it's not broke, don't fix it" motto.

Closer to $1k.



If you know your truck is getting close (warning signs of impending failure) then you will be spending the money eventually. I'd rather have one on the shelf than waiting for shipping or trying to find one locally, especially if I am on a trip.



You don't carry a transmission cause it's big, heavy, expensive, and not real doable on the side of the road.



You have larger aftermarket wheels and high end tires, you'd be wishing you spent the extra $800 for that 5th (or 7th) as a spare.