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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vulcan Big Line Relocation Help

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I just spent some time under my truck (1999 Dodge SB) to see how the Vulcan Big Line/Pump Relocation was going to go when I’m ready. Please refer to the picture. In this picture the pump is mounted to the bracket, but the bracket is merely hanging from the fuel line to get an idea of position. The blue hose goes nowhere. My main issue is how to get the fuel line far enough away from the frame to use a mini tube cutter. The further away the cut from the tank the more room is available, that is why I have selected the furthest distance possible for the pump in this location – see picture. Another issue is the 3” offset between the fuel line and the center of the pump inlet, so to keep from kinking the hose I have to cut the tubing as far away from the pump (towards the tank) as possible, which puts the cut too close to the tank to get the line away from the frame to make the cut – catch 22. I want to put a shut-off valve before the pump, so maybe I can find a 90 degree shut-off value, which would minimize the offset issue. If not, does anyone know if and where I could get a 3/8” tubing bender? How do you guys handle these issues? Any cutting that can cause a spark is not for me.
 
Pull the line away from the frame?



Bend the tube. Brake line benders are only like $20, or do it by hand, just be carefull not to knik it.
 
Hack saw handle not the whole frame thing. If you have less than half a tank no fuel will be there and beside Diesel is hard to ignite with a spark but you won't get one.
 
i was in the same boat and kinda half cut it with a tubing cutter, then finished it off with a hacksaw, i cut it pretty close to the tank though. you should be able to bend the tube by hand
 
I had hoped to put a shut-off value on the pump inlet side but unless I mount the pump foward of this area (other side of cross member)there is not enough room to satisfy me. I bought a 3/8" shut-off and barb fittings at Home Depot, but because of the 3. 5 inch offset between the pump inlet and frame, and to keep the shut-off secured against the frame, I would have to add a 90 degree barb fitting as well. On this fitting the barb was very short, so I decided to scrap the shut-off project. I'm hoping that if, or maybe I should say when, I have to change the pump I won't take a bath in diesel, even though one post said there was no diesel in the tank line when it was cut into. What would cause there to be no diesel in this tank line without purposely forcing it back into the tank?
 
there was diesel in the line but not enough to bathe in, just enough for a quick shower :-laf what i did is cut it to where it started to leak, finished my beer and went back after it drained.
 
Diesel is very hard to ignite with a flame, let alone a spark. I started with a tubing cutter, but short on room i got out the cutt off wheel and went to town. No spark anyway, kept RPM down and there was enough fuel running out to cool off the wheel. Id say less than a quart of fuel came out, but the first few ounces were flung by the cutter wheel and/or blown by air grinder exhaust... . I definatly got a shower, but i didnt have the patience to horse with the tube cutter next to the frame. My QC long bed mount is different, I cut the hard line where the frame goes from "box" to "C", so there was a little extra room, but not much.

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Up in the frame behind the tank I found another plastic clip thing holding the fuel line, the lines just snap into it, I poped the supply line out of that and gained some extra work room for getting the new hose up on it. The hose gives easy and the hard line need only be cut 6" or a little + for the hose to make an easy gracefull bend to the pump.



For what its worth, I painted the pump as well to help guard agianst salt. The finish on the pump probly wont hold the paint, but it makes me feel better. Thats Bobcat Charcoal Grey, BTW



Oh, and as Eric recomends in the instructions, DEFINATELY put some protection on the return line where it hits the new mount. I had a spare piece of 5/16" hose that fit nice around the return tube, but for a 3" pice its not worth a trip to the parets store- use the rubber from the pump end of the factory tank line that you remove.
 
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I had a little less room to work with, SWB QC 4wd. I just made a loop in the line and didn't cut the line as close to the tank. If you are worried about getting a bath, pop the quick connect fitting at the tank module. You will still get some fuel, but not a lot. Here are some pictures that may help.
 
Lift Pump Fuel Line Removal

Help, Help, Help. Currently in process of installing the Vulcan Big Line Relocation Kit and can't get the fuel line off of the lift pump. I've read here that you merely pinch the blue connection and the line will come Off. Well I've been pinching with both hands and channel locks, but can't get it free. Need help now!!!
 
If you can't get that line loose take the banjo bolts out of each side of the lift pump. You are replacing all of that line anyway if you have the big line kit from Vulcan. You may have to take the banjo bolt out of the filter housing from the lp to get the lp to drop enough to get the inlet banjo bolt out. If push comes to shove I think that section of line is rubber, just cut the hose.
 
MBFARMS said:
If you can't get that line loose take the banjo bolts out of each side of the lift pump. You are replacing all of that line anyway if you have the big line kit from Vulcan. You may have to take the banjo bolt out of the filter housing from the lp to get the lp to drop enough to get the inlet banjo bolt out. If push comes to shove I think that section of line is rubber, just cut the hose.

Thanks for your response. Finally was able to get the connector off. Had to find a position where I could get one hand pinching the little blue tabs and the other pulling on the black end.
 
if you un bolt the clamps that hold the fuel line to the frame you will have enough room to spin a mini tubing cutter totally around the lines. . i think i unbolts almost all of th elines and then i could move the line away from the frame alot ie more then 6"s... after your done push em back and re bolt the clamps to the frame ... thats how i did my dads, quad cab long bed. .

Thanks

Deo
 
what are you guys using to secure the hose on the end where you cut the fuel line coming from the tank? all i see is a hose clamp :confused: is this enough to keep the rubber hose over the steel fuel line without any kind of flaring done to it? i know there is no pressure built up on that side of the fuel system but just curious. i am planing on getting a kit just want to know about it before i install it.
 
The Aftermath....

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So far the hose clamp on the tank line is doing ok. There is a good 3" of overlap, which also helps.



Also, tonight was the first trip out since the test drive, and the new pump seems to have "broken in". Pressure has stabelized a bit lower, but still drops very little under normal acceleration, and still under heavy throttle stays above the 10psi mark. Time will tell, will be pulling the trailers and camper soon.
 
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nuv22 said:
what are you guys using to secure the hose on the end where you cut the fuel line coming from the tank? all i see is a hose clamp :confused: is this enough to keep the rubber hose over the steel fuel line without any kind of flaring done to it? i know there is no pressure built up on that side of the fuel system but just curious. i am planing on getting a kit just want to know about it before i install it.



Just the one hose clamp and mine has been doing okay for around 450 miles so far. Will be towing in a couple of weeks and expect no problems. Some on here used 2 clamps instead of 1 for insurance more than anything.
 
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