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Want a SOFTER ride? New Full Leaf Packs are on there way!

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06 recall

CB Installation Location--HELP

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I'm proud to announce an "Industry First". Your 3/4 and 1 ton Trucks don't have to ride like trucks!



With the Bumpstops installed, the OEM Spring Rate is engage at ride height. Less sway and rear end sag when loaded compared to the OEM Leafs.



Pull a pin, remove the Bump Stops, and smooth out the Freeway Expansion Joints, Speed Bumps, and Off Road Chatter when unlaiden.



Double wrapped Berlin Eyes, Keepers, New Ubolts, Hardware and all the good stuff that you would expect.



Were taking pre orders. Our Suspension Kit valving, and all fine tuning should be complete in two weeks.



Sean
 
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Looks like the best of both worlds... towing ability and a soft ride unladen. They look plenty beefy too. Fill is in with some more info there Sean... like how much lift, load carrying capacity, etc, etc.
 
Matt,

I/we, you, or any other company can't legally increase the load capacity of our trucks. Air bags, sway bars, add a leafs... No matter what we do to our trucks, we can't change the GVWR legally. I won't advertise an increase because of this. Thus, the OEM GVWR's will stay the same.



The Pack that is pictured is the same as the OEM height. We removed all of the OEM spacers aswell. I've been doing 0-3" lifts with our mini packs as customers request, and don't see an issue with continuing to customize the rear height if customers decide to go with the full leaf pack.



SFT,

The ones pictured are for 4x4 Dodges, 3rd gens. I'm hoping to expand into all 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, 2wd and 4wd as customer demand dictates.



Nate,

A Berlin eye is harder to make but rides smoother. A military wrap comes off the bottom or top of eye at the 6 or 12 o'clock position. Energy has to travel down the frame into the eye, transfer into a 90* angle, then into the leafs. A Berlin Eye creates a smooth transition of energy from the frame and into the leafs by transferring off the eye in the 3 o'clock position, straight into the Leaves and the axel.



You can see how energy flows by looking at our Tower analysis. http://lorenzindustries.com/dropbox/Tower with bolts plastic.avi

Angles create stress. Attention to detail and COST Effectiveness is were our innovations stand out. Our Taller Tower Design is now an industry standard, Shorter/ Correct length shocks, 10" of travel, Teflon lined Chromoly hiems, Berlin Eyes... . It's all Small stuff that won't cost you your first born.
 
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Lorenz said:
The Pack that is pictured is the same as the OEM height. We removed all of the OEM spacers aswell. I've been doing 0-3" lifts with our mini packs as customers request, and don't see an issue with continuing to customize the rear height if customers decide to go with the full leaf pack.
I like the fact that you can get them in the height you want up to 3 inches. Might give it a try ;)



Jake
 
Lorenz said:
Matt,

I/we, you, or any other company can't legally increase the load capacity of our trucks. Air bags, sway bars, add a leafs... No matter what we do to our trucks, we can't change the GVWR legally. I won't advertise an increase because of this. Thus, the OEM GVWR's will stay the same.





I understand. I just didn't want to lower it. I've seen some lifted trucks trying to tow with the front wheels barely touching the ground. I don't like that look.
 
I've got a 2006 3500 Quad Cab DRW two wheel drive. These sound really good. Would it be possible to modify the spring pack to lower the rear of the truck to match the front. This would be 4" to 4. 5". I have wanted to lower the rear of my truck since day one. My truck is only used for occasional pulling or heavy loads in the bed.
 
Thanks for the info. You obviously know a heck of a lot more about leaf springs that I do!!



Lorenz said:
Matt,

I/we, you, or any other company can't legally increase the load capacity of our trucks. Air bags, sway bars, add a leafs... No matter what we do to our trucks, we can't change the GVWR legally. I won't advertise an increase because of this. Thus, the OEM GVWR's will stay the same.



The Pack that is pictured is the same as the OEM height. We removed all of the OEM spacers aswell. I've been doing 0-3" lifts with our mini packs as customers request, and don't see an issue with continuing to customize the rear height if customers decide to go with the full leaf pack.



SFT,

The ones pictured are for 4x4 Dodges, 3rd gens. I'm hoping to expand into all 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, 2wd and 4wd as customer demand dictates.



Nate,

A Berlin eye is harder to make but rides smoother. A military wrap comes off the bottom or top of eye at the 6 or 12 o'clock position. Energy has to travel down the frame into the eye, transfer into a 90* angle, then into the leafs. A Berlin Eye creates a smooth transition of energy from the frame and into the leafs by transferring off the eye in the 3 o'clock position, straight into the Leaves and the axel.



You can see how energy flows by looking at our Tower analysis. http://lorenzindustries.com/dropbox/Tower with bolts plastic.avi

Angles create stress. Attention to detail and COST Effectiveness is were our innovations stand out. Our Taller Tower Design is now an industry standard, Shorter/ Correct length shocks, 10" of travel, Teflon lined Chromoly hiems, Berlin Eyes... . It's all Small stuff that won't cost you your first born.
 
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SixPackDaniel said:
I've got a 2006 3500 Quad Cab DRW two wheel drive. These sound really good. Would it be possible to modify the spring pack to lower the rear of the truck to match the front. This would be 4" to 4. 5". I have wanted to lower the rear of my truck since day one. My truck is only used for occasional pulling or heavy loads in the bed.





Let me look into it. I never liked the stink bug look either.
 
Could you go up to 4,5,or 6" and still maintain the ride quality? This would be a nice set up with a full front lift.
 
TexBamBam said:
Lorenz, what can you do for the front? I got the Billsteins... they are too stiff... makes the CD skip a lot... any ideas?



The front may add to the harshness. . But, it's usually the OEM Rear Leaf Pack that is too stiff, and that usually creates the harsh ride.



Here's 4 things that you may want to check.



1) I'm guessing you got your KORE stuff with their HD Front Spring? If so, I'd venture a guess that it's that spring, not the Bilstien shocks that are giving you the unpleasant ride up front. I have an HD spring that is 6% stiffer than stock and one that is 22% stiffer. These two coils will fit your Bilstien 5100's. Obviously, my IR coil would be the best of both worlds but you'd need to step up to the FOX's or Sway-A-Ways when running the IR coil, and this doesn't sound like what you want? So, my 6% HD Spring may work better for you.



2) How are your MTR Tires wearing? Are they wearing more down the center than on the outside edges? If so, your tires may be inflated to much, and this is another culprit of the harsh ride.



3) Try this. Run Down to your Local Home Depot and pick up 2 of their 20-50# sand bags. Get the ones in plastic bags. You'll have a mess on your hands if you use the paper bagged ones after the first rain. Place these $3 bad boys at the rear corners of your bed, up against the tail gate. If this helps your situation then you know the rear of your truck needs some help. The New Dual Purpose leafs will help the situation when unladen.



4) Do your rear Bilstiens have a part number embossed around the bodies near the top eye? If not then they are the KORE 5100's. Email that # to me if they have a part #. I have some new Bilstien 5100's that have reworked valving profiles. These are the only 5100's I carry right now. We may start to carry the standard cataloged units if I find the need for more compression with the New Dual Purpose Leafs.
 
Walker said:
Could you go up to 4,5,or 6" and still maintain the ride quality? This would be a nice set up with a full front lift.





We can change the spring rate and lift to accomplish almost anything. Remember, to level out your truck you need a 2-3" lift up front.



If you want a 6" lift in the rear your looking at a 8-9" lift in the front. Your on your own with that. I have heard some of the big boys have discontinued thier bigger lifts for the Dodges because of the issues you get into when you go this high. The jury is still out for me with anything over 4-5" of lift in the front. ;) As it sits there are a couple of hurdles to overcome when going from a 3" lift into a 4"+ lift.
 
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The MTR's are wearing great... got about 25-32PSI in them. I got the Kore 5100's. And you are probably right about the Ft. springs being too stiff. I have Rancho 9000X in the back set on the lowest setting so I dont think its the rear. I have the KORE rear leaf pack in the back too... it looks level. But just a harsh ride... I do a lot of off road, about 12 miles a day That's how far I am from pavement. Usually do that road about 50 MPH and some good jumps... tires usually stay on the ground... but not always.
 
TexBamBam said:
I have Rancho 9000X in the back set on the lowest setting so I dont think its the rear. I have the KORE rear leaf pack in the back too... it looks level. But just a harsh ride...



Try the sand bags. I'd be interested in your response. The Rear OEM primary leafs are tough to get moving. Couple that with stiff spring up front and I can understand what your saying. The OEM rear springs are thick, and there's allot of friction to over come in order to get them to budge. I'd like to narrow down what end is causing most of the problem before I sell you anything.



I also had the Rancho's once upon a time, like you, they were set on the lowest level until I threw my slide in camper into the bed, a Lance 851. With the extra 3000+ lbs over the rear axel, I would turn them all the way up, mostly for the rebound control. I blew the compression circuit out in 6 months. :{ That's when the business came to fruition. I had high end shocks, hydro bumps, and bypass' on my fully caged Toyota, but didn't want to spend the loot to put Race Quality stuff on my Daily Driver. That was dozens of spring/shock and valving configurations ago. Now I have a Truck that will ride like a caddy across county very comfortably unladen with my family, it will carry my camper just as well as a F450 with my 32' trailer in tow, and it will scream over speed bumps and 1. 5' whoops like a scared cat. :-laf "Crazy Americans"



Now that I think back, I'm getting more use out of my shocks and hard earned $ on my Daily Driver, than I was by putting all of the good technology into a Toyota that was used mostly for fun. Now I just have to worry about breaking the tow vehicle when I go wheeling. I used to make fun of guys like me...



Back to the regular scheduled program...
 
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Lorenz said:
We can change the spring rate and lift to accomplish almost anything. Remember, to level out your truck you need a 2-3" lift up front.



If you want a 6" lift in the rear your looking at a 8-9" lift in the front. Your on your own with that. I have heard some of the big boys have discontinued thier bigger lifts for the Dodges because of the issues you get into when you go this high. The jury is still out for me with anything over 4-5" of lift in the front. ;) As it sits there are a couple of hurdles to overcome when going from a 3" lift into a 4"+ lift.





Good deal. As for the "level" look. I don't care for it, never have. I like the stock rake of the pickup just fine; and I'd want to maintain it for looks and for function (aerodynamics). Even another inch or two in the back wouldn't bother me. So, my lift plan is to clear 37's in the front with a 5/6" and do at least the same in the rear. These should have some real world feedback in time for me to decide. Thanks.
 
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