2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission want to rebuild my rearend need advice please

[-gtsm-]

My wife was out of town hauling horses and the Dana rear end in her 99 2500 4x4 started leaking oil out of the front input shaft seal. She had the seal and oil replaced at a "quick lube type place" they said there was some twine or string wrapped around the shaft that may have caused the seal to fail but the truck has 90,000+ miles on it so it may have just worn out. She doesnt know how long the seal was leaking before she noticed it but most of the oil was gone and what was left was in bad shape. after the repair she drove the truck home several hundred miles. The seal is dripping oil in the driveway right now... possibly the shaft may have wear or the seal was not installed properly and I am considering doing a total rearend rebuild(important bearings and or seals that may have excessive wear) and the installation of an aftermarket diff cover while I'm at it, I am looking for advice on how to go about this repair myself I have done most type's of automotive repairs on my own cars over the years but never rebuilt a rearend. I am doing searches right now to try and find info but have yet to find any how to's for this type of repair. Also I am missing the data plate off the rear(lube shop lost it) so I don't know exacly what rear I have... I am assuming it is a Dana 80 with a tracloc,I am going to need to know for sure so I can order parts today if I can. Thanks for reading this so far and if you have any info for me please take the time to help as I need to get this fixed in the next couple of days and I would like to do the work myself .

 

[Mesenbrink]

If it is an auto it will be a Dana 70 . If it is a manual you will have the 80. The only way an auto came with an 80 is in the 3500.

 

[-gtsm-]

Thanks,I do have a manual transmission,I have updated my sig to show that. When I called standard transmission to ask about parts I was told that with the Dana rears I need to know exactly which rear I have to get the correct seals,bearings etc. the number I need should start with 605xxxx and should have been on a tag on the cover but this was lost by the repair shop.

 

[-gtsm-]

I have obtained a Haynes manual which shows how to replace the Pinion oil seal which is leaking,and the axle seals and bearings but does not go into detail on any other procedures. I am concerned that maybe the sealing surface of the pinion shaft is grooved or otherwise damaged ... can I inpect this properly without removing the pinion shaft? and from looking at a diagram of a dana 80 I see that there are bearings on the pinion and on either side of the carrier . Can I service these myself? I don't want to do any extra work for nothing but I do want to be thorough. could someone help me put together a parts list including any special tools I may need?

 

[B.G. Smith]

Originally posted by -gtsm-

I . I am concerned that maybe the sealing surface of the pinion shaft is grooved or otherwise damaged ... can I inpect this properly without removing the pinion shaft? The sealing surface of the pinion shaft is on the yoke, not the shaft. If there is not a lot of metal on the magnetic plug and the rear end is not making any noise, I would change the lube and leave it be. bg

 

[kentdiesel]

The Pinion seal actually rides/seals on the Pinion Yoke. Since the job was at a "Quick Lube Type Place" as you put it I would check their work. First thing see if there is any play when you grab the yoke and try to move it up and down. If there is play check to see if the pinion nut is tight. If the pinion nut is tight and you have play the rearend will need "internal attention".



Your seal leak could also be as simple as no sealer was put around the outside of the seal before it was driven in or it was installed crooked or not replaced at all? Got to think of all possibilites.



I would not automatically think a rebuild is in order til I pulled the rear cover and looked at the gears and checked backlash. 90,000 is not alot of miles for these rearends. However, the possibility of running low on oil is scary. If everything is blue inside you have problems. However if the rearend is not howling and looks OK inside I would fix the leaking pinion seal and run it.





I would remove the pinion yoke and see if the leak is coming from the seal to yoke surface or between the seal and the rear end housing. I clean the housing recess where the seal goes with brake parts cleaner, dry it out and put some silicone around the new seal before driving it in. Use a seal driver and avoid pecking round and round with a hammer. If the yoke is not worn to bad you can polish it with some 600 grit sandpaper where the seal rides. If it's deeply grooved NAPA might have sleeves to fit the yoke so you won't have to buy a new one.





The special tools for a rebuild would be expensive. The list would read something like this:

Yoke puller, Bearing removers and installers, dial indicator with magnetic base, Pinion depth setting tools, a couple torque wrenches( inch lb and ft lb), seal drivers, ring gear marking paste.

You probably wouldn't have to have it but a case spreader would be handy. You will also need a hydraulic press. I'll assume you have a impact wrench, big sockets, parts washer, etc.



Unless you have alot of the tools already I would recommend finding a shop that specializes in rebuilding rearends. Not just any Garage or Dealer will do, IMO. I have seen bad rebuilds that howled like coyotes, one I seen where the pinion depth was setup so far out the oil would boil after a few hundred miles.

Choose your rebuilder wisely.

Good Luck,

Kent

 

[-gtsm-]

new development: drove truck 20 miles, all oil must have leaked out,now howling like a wolf. let truck cool overnight, on way to put new oil in and bring home. differential was hot. outer bearings not. wife says will probably look for good repair shop. how much does a new rear end cost???

 

[-gtsm-]

couldn't drive truck home ... it still has oil in it,but noise is real bad, probably the bearing on the pinion . I am going to have to tow it to a shop for repair , am going to move this thread to the 911 section to see if anyone in new orleans can help me.

 

[kentdiesel]

Sorry your situation didn't turn out better. You may want to check the TDR classified ads, I saw a few rearends in there.

Kent

 

[-gtsm-]

Thanks for all your help guys,The truck is at Gerhardt's performance diesel in New Orleans , we will see how it go's... I'm bummed I didn't have time to do it myself and tools are never a bad investment in my book. BTW I did check the classifieds... found nothing that fit the bill. would have liked to have found a disk brake axle. Was saving up for brakes before the rear went.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I recommend getting the factory service manual and a back issue copy of TDR#24.

 

[24Vpirate]

to fix a hammered dana 80 is about 2500 bucks as long as you didnt ruin thr houesing

 

[-gtsm-]

Thanks for the info pirate, I should hear from the shop today with an estimate, and Joe now I know that I should have saved my back issues better... i've missplaced some and given some away to friends so that they could read them and become members themselves,I usually buy shop manuals for all my vehicles ,but I went with a Hayne's manual this time because they are written with the home mechanic in mind . BTW what was in issue #24 I'm still looking for it.

 

[-gtsm-]

The shop just called ... the axle is shot gears and bearings) they deal with a place called jaspers for parts(new diff assembly) and are going to let me know monday how much it's gonna be but he estimates $2500 + ouch.

 

[DProehl]

Just a thought, check your local wrecking yards for a used drum to drum rear axle assy. I regeared my truck 4. 10 to 3. 54 It was alot cheaper( $1200. 00 with no core) to replace than to regear. I than sold my 4. 10 axle for $1000. 00, cost $200. 00 and my labor. Good luck!