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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission warm/hot switch and cover plate

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On my new to me '01 3500 the head light switch and cover plate seem to be warm, not really hot. I have had no problems with it I was just wandering if this is normal or is there going to be a problem?
 
Normal... ... Just to keep it that way I run with dash lights in brightest position. Previous MY's had problems with melted switches, I don't want to go there. Mike
 
The switch is too light for the load Dodge put on it. Shed the load on the switch by installing a relay to feed lights directly from the battery. You can go to http://summitracing.com and order the headlight harness for your truck. It installs relays to control the lights and uses the power from the OEM switch to run the relays. Have it on mine and it's easy install and gives you brighter lights.
 
As an interim fix you can pull the dash facing and drill holes in the top of the vent tube that is directly below the switch. As long as you have dash air selected the fan will force some cooling air over the switch. After over 250k and a lot of night driving I haven't had to replace a switch yet, and I drive with the lights dimmed to near nothing - an old habit from night flying helicopters. You get a lot less eye strain when you dim the dash lights and have better outside visability as well.
 
Melted Headlight Switch

CarlJensen said:
The switch is too light for the load Dodge put on it. Shed the load on the switch by installing a relay to feed lights directly from the battery. You can go to http://summitracing.com and order the headlight harness for your truck. It installs relays to control the lights and uses the power from the OEM switch to run the relays. Have it on mine and it's easy install and gives you brighter lights.



Hello Carl and all TDR guys/gals.



I just replaced my headlight switch today. Took 10 times longer to figure out how to remove the escutheon cover than to do the job. Even so, 30 minutes and I was done.



Now I need to install the relays to take the load off that switch. DC is specifying wire that is too small a guage for the current that is being pulled and the switch is very fragile as noted by others. That plastic terminal housing melted completely away from the terminals. Had to use a pick to put the terminals on the right posts. Since I plan on adding relays, it is not a concern for me.



I am tackling the relay wiring a little bit different that others have. Instead of the Summit Racing wiring harness, I am building my own so that when the high beams go on, the low beams STAY on. That gives a tremendous boost to the visibility factor.



John
 
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