Warn Hubs for 4X4's

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Does anyone know if Warn Hubs can be fitted to the 4X4 Dodge?
Would this increase the mileage?
I was told, by the dealer, that the 4X4 option would cut mileage by 4-6MPG.

Ben

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2000 BLACK 3500, CTD, 4x2, Quad, SLT+, Tow Package, Camper Package, Sports Package, Sure Grip, Sliding Rear Window, 3. 55, Auto

 

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I asked the same question when I got my 1998 4x4, and the answer I got was yes, but it would be very exepensive. It was also pointed out to me that being able to unlock the hubs will not result in a big increase in milage because most of the milage decrease is from power needed to accelerate the mass of the transfer box and front axel, and not from friction in the front drive train. The main advantage of the locking hubs is to reduce wear but you can save a little on fuel. The 4-6 mpg number seem too high. When I compare my milage to numbers I've seen reported for 2x4's like my truck, I'm no more than 1-2mpg down for in town and less than that for highway milage.

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David Edwards Austin,TX
1998 2500 4X4 Reg. Cab 12V NV4500

 

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The only 4x4 experience I have is with a Jeep CJ-5 and a Bronco. Both have unlockable hubs.
When I unlock the hubs and put the transfer case in 2x4, I get a lot better mileage.
The front differential doesn't move, just the front wheels.

On the Dodge, if you select 2x4 drive and have unlocking hubs, none of the front parts should be driven, increasing mpg.

The front differential is what sucks the power, right?

It would be interesting to hear from someone that has Warn Hubs on a Dodge.

Ben


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2000 BLACK 3500, CTD, 4x2, Quad, SLT+, Tow Package, Camper Package, Sports Package, Sure Grip, Sliding Rear Window, 3. 55, Auto

 

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Soon to be TDR Member email me this:

Ben,
I don't have a TDR # yet so here goes an answer that you can post if you like.
In Nov/1998 I emailed Warn Industries about a conversion kit for my 99 Dodge and the answer was "we don't make it and probably will not t this time".

Now this may have changed since then but I can tell you that on my 92 (which had locking hubs)
I would get between 1 and 3 mpg difference if the front end was turning but not in 4x4 mode. My Father sees about a 4mpg increase on his Jeep Cherokee with the Warn adapters on it and the wear on front end parts and tires is lowered.
Even if it cost $1,000usd I would do the conversion for the mileage gain, lower
cost of repairs and drive ability.

JMO (just my opinion)

Thanks,
Martin

 

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See http://www.dodgeram.com There is a neat article on how to put hubs on a Ram. Regards, bilford

 

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bilford: I've scanned that site, and can't seem to locate that article. I'd be interested in seeing how locking hubs can be retrofitted to the 94 and up Dodge. What section of the site is it in?

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92cum'ns 5spd 4wd all possible mods. to void warranty.

 

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High dollar way is a new front axle unit, I think one of the fritz's sites have a writeup of the install and estimated cost for a custom built dana 60, locking hubs, biger brakes beter axles yada yada- over 4,000$

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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood

 

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Old School... When you first get to do www.dodgeram.com click no frame in upper right. When the next page comes up click dynatrac front axle. Halfway down that page he talks about using the ball joints, knuckles, rotors, calipers, and outer axle stubs from a 1985-1998 F350 Dana 60. All these parts will fit the Dodge axle flange. Regards, bilford.

 

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This might be the way to go when your original parts wear out. I think I'll start collecting old ford front ends. bilford

 

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bilford,

Can you re-check the URL to the web site and re-post?
My browser reports it can't find the site.

Thanks,
Ben

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2000 BLACK 3500, CTD, 4x2, Quad, SLT+, Tow Package, Camper Package, Sports Package, Sure Grip, Sliding Rear Window, 3. 55, Auto

 

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http://www.dodgeram.com I re-checked. Thats' the correct URL. It's not working here right now either. Regards, bilford.

 

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bilford: Thanks again for the turn - on to the Dynatrac/Dana 60 retrofit. That is the way to go. And the way Dodge should have went when they improved the 94 and up. I've got my work cut out for me when it's time to get into the "new technology" Dodges. (and when I decide it's time to give up my 92 with it's locking hubs). I've been in contact with Dave Fritz, and he's fixed the Dynatrac page.

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92cum'ns 5spd 4wd all possible mods. to void warranty.

 

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At $4,900. 00 plus labor and counting, I might just have to wait until Dodge wakes up and does it for me.
No doubt he did MORE than was needed to add Warn Hubs.
Nice article. Maybe Rob can use it in TDR???

Ben

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2000 BLACK 3500, CTD, 4x2, Quad, SLT+, Tow Package, Camper Package, Sports Package, Sure Grip, Sliding Rear Window, 3. 55, Auto

 

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Yeah, but didn't he say that from the axle stubs out, all the parts from an '85 to '97 ford 350 w/dana 60 will fit the existing Dodge front axle? So then all ya got to do is salvage a ford front end, wait 'til your dodge ball joints and stuff need replacement, and make the switch. I'm sure it sounds easier said than done, but it will be a lot less than $4900. Regards, bilford.

 

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bmann/bilford: I hear where you're coming from. Unfortunately I think Dodge has already chosen it's direction for the future: cost reduction. I would hope that they would like to be again what they were not long ago - assemblers of trucks with the best drivetrains. Anyway - the original axle housing has the open hole for the CAD system, and no seal bores in the right places. But there's always hope. I'll let us all know how I'm doing.

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92cum'ns 5spd 4wd all possible mods. to void warranty.

 

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Old School... As far as the open hole for the CAD, a patch can be welded on. Then the rest can be bolted on. From the bare housing out. The inner axle splines might be different, so use the ford carrier and both ford axles. Use the Dodge ring and pinion. Then figure out a way to disarm the ABS without causing a major electrical failure. I may be way off, but argue with me. Regards, bilford

 

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bilford: I'll share some thoughts - you're on the right track with searching for good used components from Ford/Dana front drive axles. In fact,a beefy cover plate may be bolted and pinned in position to strengthen the void in the axle tube. I'd really have to look at all the work necessary to utilize various assembled components, and the modifications to the original axle housing (seal bores, etc. )vs. the work and cost of the new Dynatrac, with the ABS and dual piston calipers. (an outstanding bullet proof setup. ) As you might have realized, the Dodge CAD "shift on the fly" axle underwhelms me, not so much as the slightly decreased fuel mileage from true unlocked hubs, but the unnecessary rotating of one complete spider gear, the full axle, and it's joint at the steering end not to mention the "sealed for life bearings". I'm working on a solution that satisfies the mechanical design side of me, and the practical side also. Smile when you say argue - This is a good exchange of mechanical thoughts - what do you think?
My locking hubs are attached to the truck pictured at http://www.dieselpage.com/readrig/d7.htm
Yep, it's the 92 from Essex, CT.

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92cum'ns 5spd 4wd all possible mods. to void warranty.




[This message has been edited by old school (edited 09-21-1999). ]

 

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The comment about the spider gear turning even when disengaged has me wondering... while towing across NE into WY this summer my front diff 'overheated' (!) causing quite a lot of fluid to come out the breather and make a major mess out of the undercarriage and side of the truck.

I'm thinking 'this can't be good' but the dealers said they see it all the time.

Since you gentlemen seem to know axles; would this be in the 'problem' category or the 'oh well' category -- i. e. should I force the point with Dodge to fix it? I can't help but think an unengaged front axle shouldn't be overheating unless there's something wrong in the diff.




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Big MAK
98. 5 ISB 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 4" Exhaust elbow down, PowerMax1
https://www.turbodieseltrucks.com

 

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Although it was hot this summer, I'm wondering what really made the front drive axle "overheat". Could another possibility be overfilling, and the resultant foaming?
The passenger side axle and attached components do rotate ALL the time, in the post 94 4wd trucks while in 2wd.
As for the dealers comments - did he mean all the new trucks do this? Check your lube levels. Also check the mount height of the breather tube end, it should be higher than the differential, as high as possible. Hope this helps.

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92cum'ns 5spd 4wd all possible mods. to void warranty.

 

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Mark: I'd drive it a bit after checking the levels, which may be ok after blowing a bunch out, feel the carrier, and tubes and around the bearing areas. Lock in the 4wd, drive around a bit, and check the the axle again by feel for any elevated temps. be careful about your speed and turns on dry roads while in 4wd. Your ears will help too,for any unusual noises, like whines, growls, and clicking. If all's normal,you can sleep comfortably. If not, and under warranty, I'd let the dealer know. Regards.