Waste gate on turbo

[DPKetchum]

Do any of you all adjust the waste gate on turbo. My Banks 14mm I assume bleeds of at 19. 5 psi. Can this be adjusted for a little more boost and if so what direction etc.

 

[JStoll]

if you look at it you will see how it works

the boost pushes the rod out of the pot so shortening the rod increases boost if it pulled the rod in you would lenthen the rod

all that Ive seen push out so shorten the rod

go a lil at a time

take care

JAK

 

[JStoll]

I forgot one important thing NEVER! try to break loose the lock nut with the actuator rod off of the wastegate pin you will ruin the diaphram

so the 1st thing you do is break loose the nut than take the adjusting rod off the WG pinn & screw the rod/sleve in

JAK

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I've got my wastegate at it's max boost position and I only get about 20psi of boost. Thats due mainly to how well my truck breaths - see my sig for numbers. I use a mirror laid on an old coat stuffed between the engine and the firewall. Loosen the lock nut first, remove the "E" clip then pop the connector off the wastegate - shorten the rod a half or full turn then put it all together and test. You will need a supply of regulated air to open the actuator and reconnect the rod. Use only enough air to make the connection. If you have any PM me.

Bob

 

[JStoll]

bob I would say your most likley reason for 20 PSI with the WG actuator screwed all the way in (which is a bad idea) is because the actuator is a 15-18 LB actuator screwed all the way in I use a rock shock pump & add pressure till the WG just cracks open thats the actuators rated opening point & this should be done with the actuator set like this

screw the actuator out till it slips onto the WG easily than tighten it 3 turns this is the corect way to set an actuator pot to its intended relief pressure

you can turn it up a lil by screwing itin further but if you screw it all the way in you may experience whats called (spring stacking) inside the pot which limits the WGs ability to open fully raising EGTs & limiting flow

if you want more boost get a stronger actuator or back yours off & run a helper spring so you get full travel & a higher relief pressure

my 2 cents

JAK

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

JStoll

Thanks for the input I will give it a try. That's what I like about the TDR someone is always willing to help. I'll let you know how it works.

Bob

 

[JStoll]

bob I was concerned that you might have taken it the rong way & Im glad you dident

I certainly dont mean to be a know it all just informative



please let me know if I can ever be of help Im new to the CTD but not to turbos

JAK

 

[formula]

Another way to raise the opening pressure of the wastegate actuator is with a bleed orifice and restrictor in the signal line. Assuming that the actuator is set for maximum travel, this allows you to set the opening pressure to whatever you want above the normal opening pressure of the actuator. In addition, it does not require any modification of the actuator and can be easily removed if desired. I had this type of setup on my gated 14cm housing and it worked out quite well. I raised the opening pressure of the wastegate from about 21psi to 30psi and it gave a more progressive opening as well



Sean

 

[JStoll]

in saabs we use something called APC it is basicaly an electronic boost controller that came stock on the cars & is verry adjustable & uses a knock sensor to detect pre ignition (ping) & retard the boost if needed

the reason I bring this up is that the actuator setting stock on a saab is like 5. 5 lbs & the boost controller takes it up to 11 gasser boosts are lower then diesel Im learning anyway when I started to turn up the eletronics eventualy I was actualy blowing the WG open with exhaust pressure so I added springs & turned down the electronics now base boost is like 15 & controlled gets to about 22 I was hitting 25 which is ALLOT for a gasoline engine

so I would say that a bleader is a great idea as well as electronic boost controllers but at some point you may have to step the spring pressure to avoid blowing open the WG

also at least on gas engines the exhaust pressure before the turbine should not exceed 2 times the boost pressure

exhaust pressure is allways higher than boost

anyway enough of my rambling

take care

JAK

 

[DPKetchum]

Formula were to you get a bleed orfice and restrictor valve?

 

[formula]

I made it myself with some 1/8" brass pipe fittings and 1/4" hose. To make the restrictor, I cut the end off of a pipe plug, drilled the orifice in it, then threaded it into the elbow that was coming off of the compressor housing for the boost signal line. I've heard of using a spent . 22 cartridge for this purpose too. The needle valve was a saddle valve (the kind that you see for installing an ice maker) but I removed the saddle and the long pipe piercing needle. Didn't take long at all to make. You really need a pressure regulator and a compressed air supply to set the boost controller properly. It is quite sensitive. The way it works is as you open the needle valve, it creates a leak which lowers the pressure to the actuator. The reason you have to install the restrictor orifice is to cut down on the flow of air otherwise the needle valve would be rendered ineffective. Alternatively, you could install a bigger bleed valve, but it would be quite noisy and waste boost. You can adjust it from normal wastegate opening to having it not open at all.



You can also buy a similar type of setup from various turbo shops. But the homemade version only cost me about $15 to make.



Cheers,

Sean



Here's a block diagram... ... .

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[Dieseldemon]

Turbo orfice

DP

Give me your address and I will send you a turbo orfice via us mail

 

[DPKetchum]

I p. m. you. hey thanks. ket me know how much with shipping. happy to pay for your time and effort!

 

[Dieseldemon]

Turbo orfice

DPKETCHUM You have PM

 

[DPKetchum]

The boost line goes between center valve covers