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Water Again!!!!!

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Why???

NEw member here !

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Well guys, guess what? I sealed the vent on the drivers side kick panel on Saturday with silicon and thought that would be the end of the job. Well, it rained today and I jumped in the Dodge, there was water on the floor again! I'm getting very frustrated with water because I just tried to fix it and also had to get my windshield seal replaced a few months ago, I had to put in new carpet due to this problem because it was the original and soaked with water. Any help woudl be appreciated.
 
Ther are several other common places to find leaks. Look carefully at the window seal roof junction, it is common for the roof to rust out in this area. Also check the area under the cowl (slotted sheet metal peice between hood and windshield) this is were the air the air enters for the vents and heater. check this for blockage by debris, also for rust holes. Also check the drain holes on the bottom of the ducts that run down each side of the cab, just ahead of the door hinges.
If all this looks ok and you think that it may be the windsheild seal, try using pumping sealer, between the rubber and glass as well as rubberand body, this fixed the same problem in my 79.

Neil

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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca
 
J Demaio,

You need to look at your windshield gasket with a microscope #ad
We have three first gen rigs at my house and they all developed this problem. At the corners of the windshield, take a glance, you'll find that there is an obvious hole that can leak into the interior. The fix is to use silicone sealer and fill in those areas; in some cases (my dad's truck), you'll have to reseal the entire windshield.

Also, on my dad's truck, he had a glass company evaluate the problem, and they found that parts of the cowl under the hood were leaking (those seams that you can see on the fire wall); the were caulked and the problem stopped. Hope this helps you out! #ad


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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" Jardine, Swiss cheese air box
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell
 
The floorboards on my 69 slant-six 4x4 were completely rusted through so you could see the road rushing by between your legs if you removed the floor mat. So for my 1990 4x4, but the sameOsameO cab design, I unscrewed the rubber floor mat and mop the moisture. I gave up attempting to find where the water was entering. In both trucks only the driver's side leaks. The newer truck appears to have better paint on the floor so there is no rusting so far.

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1990(140,000 miles), W250, 3. 54, 5spd(replaced on guarantee), new head gasket at 98,000 miles, Reunel winch bumper, extra front and rear leaves, K&M air filter, Stanadyne fuel filter and Performance Formula Fuel Conditioner, Borgeson steering assembly and modified steering box to stiffen the steering, balanced drive shafts fore and aft, driver’s side rubber mat loose to mop up the water that leaks into the cab, CB and 2 meters(KB7VEJ), above the cab aluminum canopy with kayak/canoe rack. It’s a keeper.
 
You can take the sheet metal off between the winshield and the hood by removing the wiper arms ( little tab by the hindge slides then pull straight off), and sheet metal screws around the edges. This will let you look around the top of the fire wall and cowl for leaks. It has been a while since I have done this be sure to check the ends first to see if there are any screws under the fenders. If there are that means that you have to pull the both fenders, a whole lot of work! Last suggestion is to take the garden hose and run the water just down the cowl. If it stays dry then you know to check the windshield out. Good Luck

DBuzz
 
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