Water injection

[Sticks]

2002 did not require a converter, and Colorado only tests for opacity, no gasses.

I know of a few people that hollowed out their converter and have had no emission issues.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

The Idea that water alky injection would make steam is not even close to a possibility. At the amount that the commercial water systems add water you really are just making the air more humid. Our SuperStock Diesel pulling tractor used about 2. gallons of water in 20 seconds of run time. This did add steam to the system, and allowed MUCH more horsepower. that engine had a lowered compression ratio to make up for this additional fluid expansion. The commercial systems will MAYBE add a gallon per 60-90 seconds.

As the water alky phase changes from liquid to vapor there is a massive heat exchange happening. This phase change is what lowers your charge air temps and makes that charge air MUCH MORE DENSE. Dense cooler air holds much more oxygen. It is the extra oxygen that burns your fuel more efficiently that gives you more power and deficiency. This is as simple as driving your truck in a rainstorm and noticing that it has more horsepower.

 

[Sticks]

The logic is there if you think of the cylinder as a compressor. The massive increase in pressure will create heat and the water condenses (this is why you have to periodically drain ones shop air compressor tank of water) Exactly how much water condenses into droplets is all speculation but I would agree that for the normal driving to amateur drag applications, the amount is negligible.

 

[MChrist]

Thanks Guys. I'm more tempted to try it now. I think I'll do studs to be on the safe side, though. I realize I'll probably never get a return on investment, but I'm funny like that...
That way, when my injectors give up, I'll upgrade and be all set!

 

[Gonzo 1066]

The logic is there if you think of the cylinder as a compressor. The massive increase in pressure will create heat and the water condenses (this is why you have to periodically drain ones shop air compressor tank of water) Exactly how much water condenses into droplets is all speculation but I would agree that for the normal driving to amateur drag applications, the amount is negligible.

Your theory is correct, However in a engine where the exhaust temperature is somewhere between 600 and 1200 degrees the idea that there would be condensate is not going to happen. In normal operating condition the small fraction of superheated water vapor is just too small a ammount in to hot a space to condense on any surface. The small ammount of blowby in a street application will easly exhaust the bit of vapor that gets by the rings. When I ran our SuperStock pulling tractor and used gallons of water on each run, we would have a condensate issue in the oil pan. After several runs the oil would appear milky. This mainly happened because of excessive cylinder/piston clearence and the fact that the engine oil never reached normal operating temps (slightly above the boiling point of water) to gass off the water.

 

[1dslram]

I ran one of the original snow units for diesel trucks it was a small black box with 2 reostats inside, one for starting boost and one for max boost. It worked great, I talked to Matt and decided to get a stage 2 diesel controller to replace the old unit. I ran this unit for a month and removed and sold it. I then installed two units one using a Devils Own voltage controller, connected to the TPS. This is adjustable for starting voltage and max voltage and has a Snow 220# pump. I then reinstalled the old Snow boost unit and a 250# cooling mist pump. This works great and is fully adjustable from no boost up to my max of 75# boost. I will in the future switch the old Snow for a new Devils Own boost controller.

1dslram

 

[MChrist]

1dslram, could you be more specific when you say "it worked great"? Did you use it specifically for mileage, EGT control, power, or all combined? Would you recommend it for just towing heavy, or towing lightly or empty/highway? Did you hand calculate mpg while testing?
I'm full of questions as you can tell...

 

[1dslram]

MChrist

I have not checked milage, I have less smoke, Lower EGTs 20*-50* crusing and up to 250* under full throttle. Just remember I am using 4 nozzels under full throttle 2GPH,. 5GPH, 7GPH & 14GPH for a total of 28GPH. The EGTs go up much slower, I could hit 1600 in nothing flat and now I don't have to worry. I started out with small nozzels at about 300HP and increased the flow as the HP went up to where it is now.

1dslram

 

[MChrist]

My EGTs run cool, since I have smarty (which lowers EGTs) twins, and stock injectors. I'm purely interested in mpg at this point.
I appreciate the info, though.