Watermeth opinions, progressive or straight shot?

[Jgolden]

Shopping for watermeth system.

One road heads to Costa Lotta and the other goes to Costa Lessa.

The systems seem to break down to the basic boost triggered on or off injection or a progressive, more boost higher volume injection.

My rig is non I/C and I'm lookin for egt lowering, more that additional power. Always fully loaded and towing a car. Trying to keep uphill temps down and maybe speed up a little.

As always cost is a part of the deal. If the basic straight shot will do the job thats good, but I don't want to stop short of the best answer.

Any opinions welcome.

 

[hotram03]

JGolden I just bought a Snow kit, I like the 2 D controller usinf EGT's & Boost, I bought mine for racing purposes though, Snow's has a good name, I like everything about their kit. You can also spray just water through it as well doesn't have to be meth/H2O, progressive rate is adjustable from 0-100% any # in between, even override injection, turned off, but still have gauges, my 2c.....

 

[Leper]

Is there any room to add an IC?

 

[Jgolden]

I could add a I/C the watermeth seems like a good fix for the type of driveing I do. Bigger compressor wheel and up graded crossover helped a lot.
Looking to cool on those long grades.

Contacted Snow they reccommend the stage III with EGT and Boost trigger progressive. Pretty expensive ($800) for my use i think. On mine the egt climb follows the boost pretty close. I lean toward the Keep it simple side.
My wife said for $800 she would watch the pyro and operate a switch on long climbs. Not a bad idea... ... .
Thanks

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I am running a Snow stage 2 system with a stage 3 controller. I like the progressive injection of W/M. I am running a . 375 and . 625 nozzle. The old girl put down 441 RWHP with a leaking nozzle.



Bob

 

[Jgolden]

I think the stage I will work for me I max about 25-30Lb boost. It's progressive, pretty much the stage II lower boost range. Thanks.

 

[Don Tanklage]

bob, curious how you are connecting the plasic controller line to the engine?



thanks, don

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Don



I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the intake horn about 3" apart. Since my pump is mounted on the frame rail I found it easier to mount them on the front side of the horn.



Bob

 

[Don Tanklage]

not for the inj bob - the boost ref line



(plastic line going into controller) - how did you connect that to the motor?



and how much boost you makin?



thanx

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Don



I just "t"ed off the same line that my boost guage is hooked up to.



I have seen as much as 38 psi (on a dyno) boost with the boost elbow fully closed.



Bob.

 

[Don Tanklage]

bob, the clear line is . 150 od



gauge line is . 125



how did you tee it in????



thanks,don

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Don



Sorry for the delay but here goes. I used a 2" by 1/8" - I believe - piece of brass pipe right off the intake manifold. At he end of that I've got a "tee" - one side of the "tee" goes to the boost gauge and the other has a barbed fitting and a short piece of hose that is connected to reducing adapter. The sensing line is rubber and works quite well. This in turn is connected to the W/M boost sensing line also rubber. If you want to use plastic sensing line just substitute the barbed brass fitting for the right fittings to adapt to your fittings. I got all the brass fittings from a well stocked hardware store and the barbed plastic adapters from an auto parts store. Hope this helps.



Bob

 

[Don Tanklage]

ahhh, so they (snow) must have changed the controller...



it now has a plastic boost input line that is . 150" dia



that is an odd ball size and that is why there is no real good way to connect it to the motor



maybe i can get a compression tee and drill the collet (or ferrel or what ever that part is called) out to . 152"?



and drill the nut too and put it together that way?



dunno



the way the new ones come bob, is they give you a barb fitting to screw into the manifold. the barb part of that fitting is . 400" long. a pc of rubber hose slips onto that barb. the other end of that rubber hose is supposed to slip over the hard plastic line that goes to the controller. see what i am saying? no barb, just slip one inside the other and it is supposed to stay. that is the part i dont like...

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I've got a Stage III controller that I added to my Stage II setup. Snow gave me the option of "teeing" off my boost gauge inside the cab but that was easier said than done so I hooked it up the way I described above.



Bob