Weber carb & Ram 50 Q's

[moparguy]

Our Ram 50, 2. 0 truck (same one in the engine rebuild thread) needs a new carb. The stock carb has been in need of replacement for a long time. I've found a factory rebuild Weber (?) on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...8QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33550QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



It's a carb that was orginally for a Chevy Vega. 32/36 Weber with a coolant controlled choke. I'm considering buying one for $90 including shipping, rather than spring for about $300 for a Weber carb and installation kit for a new carb.



Any thoughts on the Weber would be appricated.

Thanks, RR

 

[TowPro]

Does the stock carb need replaced or really just rebuilt?



If the holley fits, your probably going to have to mess with the jetting at least to make it work correct.



You might be able to extend the heater hose over to it to open the choke, but who knows, that might restrict the line enough you will not get any heat!



Add up all the repairs this truck needs, figure out what the truck is worth and see if its really worth fixing?

 

[OKish]

webers never wear out. throw a kit on there and call it a day.

 

[CLiberty]

Whats wrong with the OE Mikuni? I`ve rebuilt 100`s of them, usually just dirty, an occasional plugged air bleed and worst case a warped body.

 

[moparguy]

Chris, I've got two of the original carbs. One runs super rich. I've had it open a couple of times, suspected float level or needle valve, but it seemed to be fine. However it's been 5 or 6 years so not sure. But it would foul plugs in like 100 miles.



The second carb, the one we've used for the last 6 years or so has no fuel to the secondary. Give it too much pedal and it's one hugh flat spot, Top speed is 65/70mph. This is the carb we used while both boys drove the little truck to school. LOL



I priced a kit one time and as I recall it was $150ish. From my net research, I've formed the opinion these carbs did not respond well to rebuilds. I have taken both of em down and cleaned, blown passages out and attempted to revive them. No improvement.



I'm not at all opposed to using one of them if possible, they just seemed to be super complicated as opposed to the simple Weber carbs.



Tow Pro, good advise on cost vrs worth, fact is if I did a real analysis, I'd haul it to the junk yard and sell it by the pound. However this little truck was a project my oldest son and I did when he was 15 (23 now). Bought two junk yard trucks, made one. Swapped engines, body work, paint etc. So it's kinda like one of the family. I've ordered ball joints and a few other items to make it a decent driver again. It'll be around a while longer.



Thanks, RR

 

[CLiberty]

I`m not sure wich year D50 you have but I can make some general recomendations (bear with me, it`s been about 10 years since I`ve had one of these open :-laf ) . I`ll refer to this pic wich is 86 and older (hot water choke)to call stuff out.

carb #1 that runs rich, take a look at the air bleed jet , should be #80 in the pic. I`ts located in the air horn UNDER the shaft for the choke plate, to get to it you have to remove the choke plate&shaft. These are usually plugged solid because not many remove this during a rebuild (even the commercial builders). Now that you got me thinking I`ll take a guess, it`s an 87 or later (elec choke)? if so could also be an inop/stuck bowl vent valve #25 thru 29.

carb #2 that falls on it`s face, could be a plugged filter/orifice for the decel air bypass, sorry it`s not in the pic, but it would be on the valve cover side of the carb, located on the bottom, small alum cover w/3screws. Wish i could be of more help, kinda hard to go thru a carb via a comp monitor

 

[moparguy]

Chris, thanks a ton for the info. You're right about these being electric choke units, one is a 87 carb and the other is a 88. These are off the two trucks we used to make the one driver.



I'll let you know how this works out.



Thanks again.



RJ

 

[moparguy]

Chris, well I dove into the Mikuni's today. The carb we had been running (primary only) didn't have a plugged decel bypass as I had hoped. Since this could be checked without pulling the carb apart I felt this was my best shot.



I then started taking carbs apart and as luck would have it the gaskets did not take kindly to being messed with, every part with a gasket is now a part in need of a gasket. When I last worked on these a few years ago I was able to seperate the major pieces and save the gaskets, not today.



So now rather than spring for a rebuild kit, I'm shopping for a Weber 32/36 conversion kit. E-bay here I come.



RJR