Weekend equipment maintenece

[NIsaacs]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/deere-1023e-vs-kubota-bx1880.265434/page-7#post-2590991

Changed the transmission/hydraulic system today on the JD 4320 in preparation for a PTO/hydraulic powered wood chipper. Even thou the oil looked good on the dip stick, I have been wanting to change it since I bought it this spring. Not knowing when it was changed or what was in it....yup overdue. It appears to be the original, dirty brown with contamination swirls in it. When I pulled the suction screen, some pieces of drill metal were stuck in it. I would guess from when it was built. Then when I cleaned the return screen from the oil cooler (an inline) I found the line bent shut from someone running over a large object. Same with the hydraulic filter, a big ding in it.

 

[TFucili]

People can put a hurtin' on a piece of equipment in no time flat.

 

[Wayne M.]

PM is a good ethic to follow. That hyd oil report concerns me.
Nice machine.
Keep us in the loop regarding the chipper attachment.

 

[Wayne M.]

This is what happens when you neglect your maintenance, or in this case, don’t address a contamination issue.

 

[NIsaacs]

That hyd oil report concerns me.

Yes, me too. When you let them go like that the damage is done, no amount of oil changes will ever fix it. All I can do is delay any extra wear.

 

[TFucili]

What make chipper, Nick? 6" capacity? Pretty easy to change blades, adjust bed clearance?

 

[NIsaacs]

What make chipper, Nick? 6" capacity? Pretty easy to change blades, adjust bed clearance?

Here ya go Tom. If you want to know about chippers, I am the go to guy. I have had 3, all junk I think for the money this one will work for us. It is 7" but anything over about 3" is fire wood, so I think it will work. I originally ordered the BX102R but they are out of stock until next years models.

https://novatractor.com/BX72-wood-chipper

 

[Wayne M.]

That’s a serious chipper!
I would put that machine on a semi annual hyd Fluid/ filter change. And I’d see if there’s a desiccant loaded filter available for that. If you have no sticky spools and such, I think it’ll be fine.

 

[TFucili]

Looks good!

Somebody needs to show that guy how to tension a saw chain
And the shot with just the hard hat sitting on the feed bed looks a bit ominous

 

[NIsaacs]

That’s a serious chipper!
I would put that machine on a semi annual hyd Fluid/ filter change.

I would but it operates off the tractor remote, that's why I changed it before attaching the new chipper. I wanted to be sure in case of warranty the oil was clean.

That's another issue, maybe you ag types can help. There was no real data on hooking to the tractor. Just which hose needs inflow and out flow. Per John Deere, running a hydraulic motor is no problem, but it don't say how to hold the control in the on position. It does say to not go from on flow to center or some residual pressure might stay in both sides of the motor and damage the seals. It wants you to shut the flow off by going to float, I do have that feature. My control is a standard lever type that returns to center when you let go. I guess I need a bungie cord or some thing to hold it in place?

 

[DonFitzwater]

I guess I need a bungie cord or some thing to hold it in place?

That's the way I've seen it done.

 

[Wayne M.]

Maybe there’s a detent kit for the spool valve?

 

[NIsaacs]

That’s a serious chipper!

I think so too. I have had 2 from the direct competition, a WC-8N and a WM-8M, I can point out flaw after flaw. I didn't need the 9" capacity of the BX102R but I wanted the larger flywheel and infeed opening, for less chainsaw prep.

 

[JR]

Nick how many scv are at the back of your tractor? I think they offer up to two depending on how the tractor was ordered, and they could be either momentary or continuous. Sounds like yours is momentary, if that is the correct terminology.
I've also seen EH kits but I'd imagine those are pricey. Especially if your tractor is old enough to not have the center stack with the necessary fuses and wiring.
Bungees are much cheaper

 

[NIsaacs]

JR, I just have the one set. The Case/IH has three, the little guy 970 don't have any.

The chipper says 16 gpm max, I have 12 gpm. There is a restriction valve on the input line to turn down excess flow and also on the main flow valve to control motor speed. I wonder how to set it up to keep heat to a minimum? Dang, where to start The chipper book is vague.

 

[Wayne M.]

Restriction valves wide open. There should be no heat there, but a Harbor Freight infrared temp gun will tell you for sure.

 

[NIsaacs]

Restriction valves wide open. There should be no heat there, but a Harbor Freight infrared temp gun will tell you for sure.

Yes, I plan to start with the valve wide open. The book says to restrict the flow with big tractors and high volume systems. I think the heat is generated at the pump when the system is restricted. I think at 12 gpm I will be okay. Still waiting on my "next day air" part from JD....

 

[CBari]

I don't remember the exact reasoning, but I did have it explained to me. When using hydraulic motor on JD open center systems which your tractor is. You want to pull the scv lever back which should be the opposite of float direction if that makes sense. This allows for the greatest flow if you still develop too much heat you can dump the return line directly back to the tank on the tractor which increases the flow of the fluid. They also make some high flow tips for your hydraulic lines which also will greatly help with heat issues. Yes the bungee cord will be your best option. Lastly I am one that things most hydraulic oils are all the same, but I do know that Deere makes one that is a lower viscosity that they use in some of their equipment do to the tolerances seen when starting the engine in cold weather, I would double check which one your 4320 actually calls for since you will be pushing its system.

 

[NIsaacs]

I don't remember the exact reasoning, but I did have it explained to me. When using hydraulic motor on JD open center systems which your tractor is. You want to pull the scv lever back which should be the opposite of float direction if that makes sense. This allows for the greatest flow if you still develop too much heat you can dump the return line directly back to the tank on the tractor which increases the flow of the fluid. They also make some high flow tips for your hydraulic lines which also will greatly help with heat issues. Yes the bungee cord will be your best option. Lastly I am one that things most hydraulic oils are all the same, but I do know that Deere makes one that is a lower viscosity that they use in some of their equipment do to the tolerances seen when starting the engine in cold weather, I would double check which one your 4320 actually calls for since you will be pushing its system.

Thanks for the info. I guess trial and error The JD recommends to not use neutral when stopping the flow for motors, to use float or some pressure may remain on both sides of the motor, possibly damaging the seals. So, in order to do that I will need to use the forward side of the control.

The book says to use low-viscosity HY-GARD for year around use or standard HY-GARD if above 0*, or other oils if they meet J20C, so I use Napa Premium, it is a multi-viscosity 10w-20.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, it took 4 days for my next day air delivery but at least it was a direct fit.