Weekend equipment maintenece

[JR]

My Kubota is due a fan belt. It looks to be a fun job With the hyd pump running off the front of the engine.

 

[DavidC]

My Kubota is due a fan belt. It looks to be a fun job With the hyd pump running off the front of the engine.

Could be wrong bit I doubt it's any worse than a Toyota timing belt

 

[jhenderson]

My Kubota is due a fan belt. It looks to be a fun job With the hyd pump running off the front of the engine.

Same as my forwarder. I know some people pull the hyd pump but I pull the drive plate from the crank snout.

 

[NIsaacs]

When the guy with the roll off truck called, I told him I didn't think I could load that high. He said, "I will put the container on the ground", I was like...duh I like loading those, no spillage or over filling. With 20 yards (about 12 ton) it wasn't even half full. With the long overhang, he had me load it mostly on the front. Even on the ground it was tall.

 

[NIsaacs]

Thought I would add this Befco tiller to this thread. The one Befco thread I found was 14 years old

Anyone with a Befco tiller? I just bought a used one, model# 11-250-23x but there are no drain or fill plugs on the gear boxes. How do you change oil? The only plugs are in the top and they are a fill/breather plug. I could hang it up side down with my loader and drain from the breather plug, but how much to refill? What are they thinking??

 

[NIsaacs]

"Nick, there are some ops manuals on the Befco site, but none that match your model number. The one I glanced through says to look into the gearcase and fill to halfway on the input shaft with 90 weight gear oil. Maybe it drains through one of the bottom case bolts, if they're not blind? Draw it out the vent hole? It might be worth dropping a line to Befco 252-977-9920."


Thanks Tom, I found a couple of places that sell parts but no books. I called that number and talked to a parts guy, he said the same thing as you, on the pto box. The chain case you have to remove the cover, then fill it with 2.5# of grease. They did away with gear oil in the chain case. I elected to go back with 85/140, grease is such a pain if you have to go back in and work on something. Still no clue on how much, so I think I will just add a quart and call it good. Dang, the chain is huge! The top sprocket is 10t and the bottom is 13t, you can switch them if you want more rotor speed. I left it alone. Note the nasty oil, you can always figure a gear box left outside will look like that

 

[BSeyler]

Nick,
On my old JD 20’ batwing mower, I used my suction gun to get as much out of the boxes as I could and then rigged some 1/4” nylon hose to it to get by the “innards” and could reach the bottom. It was traded for a new one and I haven’t looked at the boxes to see if there’s a drain. I need to give it a spring service and look into what it will take.
Maybe this method would work for you and you could measure and replace with same volume?
Bud

 

[Wayne M.]

Oh fudge!
I would consider adding my own fill and drain bungs in that cover. Make the fill just below the lower shaft. A good climbing hypoid lube will keep everything coated nicely.

 

[NIsaacs]

Oh fudge!
I would consider adding my own fill and drain bungs in that cover. Make the fill just below the lower shaft. A good climbing hypoid lube will keep everything coated nicely.

That would have been the smart thing to do. And yes, a quart is a little too much, I am getting a slight overflow out the breather. I need to drain some or slow down the throttle to 2600/540, I have been in the 2900 rpm range The seals are all dry and dusty now, so maybe it just needed run. It appears to be like new, just neglected and left out in the weather.

 

[Cummins12V98]

A fun tidbit, wife wants a garden. Pulled out the TroyBuilt. DieHard battery still connected not started for at least 5 years. 8 volts, HMMMMM. Threw a charger on it and added a bit of water to 3 cells the other 3 were full. Next morning fired right off!

 

[NIsaacs]

Modified my safety bar on my chipper today. I didn't like the bottom location, it was weird, my legs would hit it and stop it or limbs would. The states are mostly top mounted, Germany required the bottom mount.

 

[NIsaacs]

After 2 more modifications I think I have it to suit me What a goofy German nightmare, all the linkage, springs and sharp handles that jab your ribs...all that is gone. Standard forward on the safety bar, is now in-feed, back is stop/reverse. With the removal of the leverage of the linkage (about 4 to one) now it is a firm but still easy movement of the bar. Before, if you so much as looked at it, it moved and stopped, plus forward on the bar stopped it, so any limb just touching it, stopped it again...grrr

Plus, now I have two green, powder coated cheater pipes

 

[NIsaacs]

Welp, I modified the stop bar again I was told in the interest of safety, I needed to have stop, forward. Even tho I am one of those guys that have to stick my hand in a wringer washer to see what happens...I fixed it again...so now forward is stop. I reinstalled the bell crank which changes the throw of the valve. I did leave off the stupid handle.

 

[NIsaacs]

Been having issues with my Lamar dump trailer batteries. I think I missed the boat on my troubleshooting skills

Awhile back I determined the charger wasn't working right so I used my portable and it seemed to help. Then that didn't seem to work either, so I replaced the batteries with one new heavy duty one, we don't use this trailer much. Still not keeping up so I ordered and installed a new charger. Still having a low battery...come to find out my wireless remote wasn't working right and not shutting off. It was warm to the touch after all night so I disconnected it. I hope I found the problem.

Note the two small nuts to the right of the old charger, I found a third one in the tool box. It was falling apart on the inside. I saved it, lol.

 

[NIsaacs]

Doing some needed maintenance on the '91, changed oil with Premium Blue, it was on sale at TSC. I need to go pickup a multifunction switch, the left signal light don't cancel. Also ordered a seal kit for the vacuum pump, first time. The little car hauler trailer is getting a new battery for the 3500lb ATV winch, 6 years on the 300 cca, replaced with a 350.

Need to re-adjust the VE pump some, still getting a little too much smoke with no/low boost conditions.

 

[NIsaacs]

Re-bushed the spring eyes on my Lamar dump, 20k+ miles. I was a little disgusted with myself when I noticed how loose they were, but, as luck would have it, the spring eyes are fine. The plastic bushing still fits snug and takes a good hand push to seat. The bushings were gone and the bolts 1/4 worn out. I ordered enough to re-do my car trailer, I am sure they are ready too.

Hauled my oldest son's empty enclosed car hauler, 102"x24', 9990 gvw to Albq. and met my youngest son there and switched with him. He was towing a '79 Ford F-150 4x4 and two quads on his 22', 14k bumper pull car hauler. He is moving back to AZ from the Colorado Springs area. I will be glad to have him around again. He enlisted in the Army in '96 and has been gone ever since. He retired in '17 and started selling Fords, Lol.

 

[JR]

Nick, with your usage/duty cycle I'm surprised you didn't go the wet bolt route. Bronze bushings and greasable, they last much longer than that plastic crap.

p.s. that's great your son is moving back in the area. I only hope mine do the same one day.

 

[AH64ID]

Nick, with your usage/duty cycle I'm surprised you didn't go the wet bolt route. Bronze bushings and greasable, they last much longer than that plastic crap.

p.s. that's great your son is moving back in the area. I only hope mine do the same one day.

I swap all my nylon crap out when I buy a new trailer. I've had a few nylon bushing wear out prematurely and cause bolt/shackle failure...and it's never at home.

 

[NIsaacs]

I swap all my nylon crap out when I buy a new trailer. I've had a few nylon bushing wear out prematurely and cause bolt/shackle failure...and it's never at home.

You probably have this type system, double eye 1.750" wide springs. Yes they are even worse for wear than my 2" slipper spring system. I did look at some wet bolts at the RV parts store but I don't like grease, Lol.

Unless I buy used I probably wont buy any spring trailers anymore. I am sold on torsion axles. One can argue the spring/equalizer system allows more axle movement but not really. Loaded there is only about 2" of clearance between the axle u-bolts and the bottom of the frame, about 3" empty. Dexter warranty limits spring axles to 5 years, 10 years on torsion. This is what my Lamar frame looks like.

My equalizer but they are not much better for wear.

 

[NIsaacs]

Hauled three loads of Cinders for a customer and his road (2 miles) is 1st gear all the way. He wants at least 4 more When the developer built the roads way back when, they just dozed a trail, so now it is the lowest point of the landscape, so, it is now the drainage. Chris crossed with washouts for most of the two miles, then where the sandstone layers are, all the dirt is gone and just leaves the rock ledges. My trailer axles sure do get a workout, no wonder the bushings were gone and the frame is bent. I think in spite of all this the torsion is better. At least they don't ever bottom out on steel. Time will tell I guess.

Dexter does not recommend three axles systems with torsion, that it is not reasonable to assume one axle can carry the GVW of three, but should be able to carry the GVW of two. Makes sense, however, I think three axle spring would be bad too. In the picture, I am pretty sure two axles would be in the air with one one on the rock, spring or torsion. I am empty in the picture.