Here I am

Weekend equipment maintenece

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215 60 16 tires

Allison Md3060 conversion to mecahnical DT466

I don't know if I am getting lazy or smarter:D

Ordered a receiver/gooseneck hitch combo for the 3 point on my tractors. Easy peasy moving trailers now, no pickups or cranking the jacks, just use the lift.

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Nick,

I originally built this to move round bales. I didn't get a good picture of where the spear goes in. Then, I added the boom and it will lift to 8'. Finally, I added the 2" hitch and then made the gooseneck mount for the top that pins where the boom pole goes. This was mostly done with 4" X 1/4" square tubing I found at a scrap yard. It's pretty handy.
Bud

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I build something similar, but also use it to hold cast iron weights (from a gym set) so I can have an additional 800 lbs to offset the loader.

Be careful - a 3 point is only a power up, not a power down, so if the trailer becomes TAIL heavy, it will lift up the 3 point arms. If it does it rapid enough and with enough force you could break an arm or the rockshaft.
 
Not going anywhere with it guys, just around the yard, to and from the shop, not loading or hauling....I have pulled the little car trailer on a hay ride one time.
 
Nick,
Did you notice the lift arms on my tractor? Those are Pat’s Easy Change” quick couplers. None of my implements are the same width, so a quick hitch was out. I made a spreader bar to hold them the correct distance apart for each of my implements. They sell one for twenty bucks, but I couldn’t see spending money for something I can make. It sure makes hooking up to something heavy much easier. $180 and worth every dime. They make cat 1 and cat 2. They are spring loaded, so work much like a quick hitch.
Bud
 
I did see them Bud, very similar to my I-Match quick hitch but it will only fit my Frontier attachments. They are cat 2 and my tractor is cat 1 so an adapter too. I just hook direct with my non JD/Frontier stuff.
 
Nick,
Did you notice the lift arms on my tractor? Those are Pat’s Easy Change” quick couplers. None of my implements are the same width, so a quick hitch was out. I made a spreader bar to hold them the correct distance apart for each of my implements. They sell one for twenty bucks, but I couldn’t see spending money for something I can make. It sure makes hooking up to something heavy much easier. $180 and worth every dime. They make cat 1 and cat 2. They are spring loaded, so work much like a quick hitch.
Bud

Hey Bud, not sure what model Oliver you have but this might be interesting for you. Model 60 and 77 salvage.

https://showlow.craigslist.org/grd/d/springerville-oliver-tractor-parts/7207691846.html
 
Nick,
Thanks for thinking of me. My Oliver is actually a newer model, 1555, manufactured in 1973. After 1974, the Oliver name was dropped and tractors were badged as White. The cab is a retro that White made to fit 55 series tractors. I mounted it on the tractor in about 2005. It is in need of paint - maybe a winter project.
Bud
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So I get home from a delivery yesterday and this is sitting on my shop slab...I guess for Nick's small engine repair:D My son is funny, just dropped it off....

Dang if they both didn't make me work for a solution to their problem.

After an oil change on the generator, carb clean and recoil housing repair, still no start. So I went after the spark, none. So I unhooked the low oil sensor and it pops right off. I hook it back up and it still runs. Shut it down, no start.. unhook the wire, pops off again. I pull the sensor, jeeze what a complicated mess that is. I take brake clean and wash it all down and install, still no start. Unhook the wire, pops right off. So I go on line and look for one. Then, since I wasn't sure what the oil level/capacity is I look it up, 1.16 qt's. I refilled it with one qt. Added 5 more ounces and now it runs as it should. Lesson to self, oil sensor is sensitive:)

The leaf blower, runs but won't rev up at all. So I clean the carb, reset as it should be and still no rev, but idles good now. Went to the Stihl dealer in town, no spark plug..Huh? Napa had one. Install it, what a waste, still no rev. Finally look at the muffler, seems like not much exhaust but it is a small motor. The bolts are counter sunk so I get my light and yup, one is already gone/broke. I was afraid to try the other one. Then my one eye sees a hex on the base of the little short exhaust pipe. Deep socket and out it come, totally plugged up spark arrestor screen. After several hours in the carb clean can, a fine saw blade and wire brush it finally comes clean. That carbon is stubborn. Success:cool:

The little homemade utility trailer (87 Ford 1/2 ton) got new tires today. Hercules, 8-14.5 mobile home tires, 14 ply all nylon, made in China.

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Best way to clean spark arrester screen is to grab a corner with pliers or vice-grips, and burn it with a torch, knock the ash off with a wire brush, and done in a jiffy. Like a mini regen:D

Good work, Nick.

Yup, thanks for the reminder, I had forgot when back in the day I would pour gas on my wood stove spark arrester and let it burn the crud off and yes brushes right off.

With your small engine history you would have found these problems right off, I am getting slow in my troubleshooting, hate it when I waste parts:)

Gonna leave the new plug in and charge him for it anyway:D
 
Just talked to my son and explained the repairs and told him about the spark plug and charging him, he just laughed and said I could have the whole thing that it was too loud and didn't like it. He has several of the 3k Honda's and is spoiled.

That's the second generator he has given me. The first one is old (flat head) and needed a valve job so after I fixed it he gave it to me too. I don't really need them. I have only used it once and as soon as I had it all hooked up to the house the power came back. It is really rare to need one here. I should just drain the tank, run the carb out and set it in the corner or just put it on C/L. I would have rather had a century note:p
 
Been having some issues on my genuine Case/IH 995, made in England:) grinder tractor. The Starter and Alternator were due. Oem is Lucas, so I used the oem parts book and crossed the numbers over to an aftermarket AG. vendor and came up with these WAI (China) replacements. As luck would have it they were identical other than the pully was too narrow, so switched those. The starter came with a test report. One year warranty with second year optional. I went ahead and got the second year for $6 on the alternator and $12 for the starter. All is well again.

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