Weekend equipment maintenece

[JR]

Hey Nick, if you are into rebuilding your old stuff bookmark this website here

https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternator-parts.html

I have gotten alternator bearings and solenoids for small tractors from them before. Some of the lesser known stuff you need specific part numbers for. I just bought a complete rebuild for the starter on my VW with all OEM Bosch parts for less than $100. OEM replacement sells for over $250.

 

[NIsaacs]

Thanks, JR. I am not a very good alternator rebuilder so I don't. I do a small amount on starters, contacts or drives but that is about it. I am not versed on diodes, rectifiers and brushes.

 

[NIsaacs]

Doing some needed maintenance on the '91, changed oil with Premium Blue, it was on sale at TSC. I need to go pickup a multifunction switch, the left signal light don't cancel. Also ordered a seal kit for the vacuum pump, first time. The little car hauler trailer is getting a new battery for the 3500lb ATV winch, 6 years on the 300 cca, replaced with a 350.

Need to re-adjust the VE pump some, still getting a little too much smoke with no/low boost conditions.

View attachment 123518

The ole '91 started loosing it's prime overnight so I finally took the time to check into it and adjust the pump some. I found two pretty good fuel leaks while it is running. So it is pump exchange time ($1200) or seal kit ($34). Since it will hardly ever get used when I get a new truck I hate to spend that kind of money. So I ordered a seal kit but i am pretty much intimidated by it. Might have to sleep a few weeks on it

It never has been a very good tow truck, too light duty, high geared and bucks when in reverse. Then 4x2 just don't work where we haul.

 

[Axtell3]

I got my neighbor/friends 98.5 275k and have begun the reliability improvements. I think he put 3 lift pumps on it, and I had previously installed a fuel pressure gauge on it, but his mechanic took it back off. So first thing, reinstall and find it at 15 lb before start, 4 running and drops when the pedal drops. Fass and remote mount on the way. It has t steering, and seems newish. I have yet to rip into the trackbar. Front passenger tire cupped pretty badly. New Bilsteins halfway on. The drivers rear was missing the upper bolt. I always wondered why the truck vault drawer was hard to open on that side... got new swaybar links and bushings, control arm bushings and the steering box brace.
New headlights and fogs, with the upgraded relay harness came in yesterday. Those old lights are milked over. That should get me dirty enough this weekend.

 

[NIsaacs]

The ole '91 started loosing it's prime overnight so I finally took the time to check into it and adjust the pump some. I found two pretty good fuel leaks while it is running. So it is pump exchange time ($1200) or seal kit ($34). Since it will hardly ever get used when I get a new truck I hate to spend that kind of money. So I ordered a seal kit but i am pretty much intimidated by it. Might have to sleep a few weeks on it

Welp, if I don't have bad luck I don't have any at all

After the seal kit arrived I chickened out. After trying 4 vendors with no recon VE pumps, I bought a highly recommended, new, aftermarket one. Four years of selling them with good results.

Leaks like crazy out of the throttle shaft, just with the primer pump. Leaks so bad, I don't think it even has the o-ring seal in it at all. Not just a damaged one...grrr I am beside myself. R&R'ing a VE pump for this old guy is brutal

 

[endoscott]

Speaking of rebuilding old stuff, does anyone know where to source a used or rebuilt hydraulic pump for 1978 Kubota loader on a B7100 tractor? Mine is failing, did not disassemble yet, don't want to do it until I have parts on hand, it still works after a fashion. It's not the pump to run hydrostatic drive, just mounted on front of engine and drives loader cylinders only.

 

[BSeyler]

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/am...ulic-pumps-repair-kits-1359617&sid=z9ASNYOReh

Not sure if that’s the one. A phone call would probably clear it up.

 

[JR]

Dang Nick. Did you contact the seller?

EndoScott, you really need the model of your loader. That loader fits more than one model tractor and sometimes there is more than one model loader that will fit a specific model tractor. I was actually able to find a reprint of a factory service manual online for mine when I rebuilt my tilt cylinders. They are invaluable - part numbers, schematics and parts break downs, etc.

 

[NIsaacs]

Dang Nick. Did you contact the seller?

Yes, they have more, so their pump guy will makes sure of no leaks before they ship it. They will overnight it as soon as the pump guy checks it.

 

[endoscott]

JR, it's a KUB219 loader, they used them on 6100s and 7100s, and probably lots of other rigs, pump P/N KU605376 superseded by 70050-01405 which used to be supplied (and made by?) Parker. The seal kit is P/N 70050-01405 but I can't find a Kubota dealer who has either one and apparently out of production. I guess I might have to dis-assemble the pump and see if I can source individual seals, o-rings or whatever goes bad on hydraulic pumps, I never rebuilt one before. First I am just going to clean the strainer and change the fluid, maybe it's been leaking and I didn't notice, or maybe there is crap in the screen. I thought for sure I could find a replacement, but on a 43 year old tractor that was kind of stupid of me to think that. Kubota tractors are going to survive armageddon, along with cockroaches and 4runners, so it's worth fixing.

 

[NIsaacs]

Changing the fluid and cleaning all screens is a good start. Not really much to rebuild on a pump when they wear out. What is the complaint, slow or low pressure?

That looks like a vane pump, probably Vickers or Gresen. I would check for a name/spec tag. It might have the model number and GPM stamped somewhere. If you can ID it, it should be available somewhere.

 

[JR]

This is like the one I found. Well worth the $$ if you don't already have one for part #'s, assembly diagrams, torque specs, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-Loa...-/313414482298?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

 

[DavidC]

Or it could be something stupid like something blocking the suction like debris, collapsed hose etc. Don't ask how I know.

 

[endoscott]

Well, I found the problem in 5 minutes. I thought about just replacing the strainer, and I could not get it 100% clean, no way to clean it from the inside except by soaking in parts cleaner and blowing it out through the SS mesh . I can get a new strainer but it's $140 for the part, and it clearly has to be damn plugged before function is lost all the way. No, I never maintained this tractor very well! It was so beat when we bought it 25 years ago I never thought it would last all that long. My son ran the heck out of it Junior and High School building jumps for their bike track. Now I am starting to think I should have babied it a little more. Recently replaced Glo-plugs and controller, starts way better.
Cleaned the screen and put in a gallon of Kubota UDT HF, man that loader works good again! LOL.
Hope my wife doesn't mind I used her toothbrush, it's gonna taste bad til it gets some toothpaste on it.

 

[DavidC]

If the strainer looks that bad makes you wonder what the rest of the suction side looks like. Hose on the suction side ?.

 

[JR]

Does your system not have a standard filter?
Does the machine set outside? Do you have a good filter on the vent? That is pretty bad for a hydraulic system. Aside from metal shavings the lack of hydrocarbons generally leaves the systems fairly clean unless outside contaminants are introduced.

 

[endoscott]

No, these old ones don't have a filter, that's why I figured the pump would be shot. It used to sit outside a lot, but I pretty much keep it in a shed all the time now. Pretty wet climate.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, if it is not a Dodge, Ram or Cummins, it is a John Deere The main right hand mount for the loader wore out. It appears the mast is okay that it couples with. Left side is okay.

 

[NIsaacs]

Started a pretty big project on my tub grinder today. The belly pan where the augers transfer the material to the conveyor, are rusted out and worn from the augers riding on it. The fix, is to install sleeves (8') inside the trough. The hardest part is cleaning out all the old residue that lays in the trough, that the augers don't reach. With a homemade long handle scraper, to drag part of it out the back and then a 1.5"x6' square tube, to scrape the material loose from the bottom/sides. Then a 10' piece if .5" plastic pipe with a air chuck adapted to it, to blow the loose material to the front. Then by hand and vacuum cleaner, we take it out the inspection/clean out hole.

I have one inserted but not bolted yet. Then you also have to cut a notch in the outer side of the new sleeve, to clear an obstruction in the old section of belly pan. It fits good. About two more short days to complete it. I replaced the augers a few years ago. In hind site, this job should have been done then. We don't work when it gets hot

 

[NIsaacs]

Back up and running again. The liners fit and installed good. Now I shouldn't have a yard of material under the grinder that has leaked out.