Weight Distribution Hitch & Sway Bar Control

[ATyger]

Harbor Freight has this on their website for a pretty good price.



http://www.harborfreight.com/10000-lb-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-system-67649.html



Too good to be true? I know my local trailer company stocks Kurt but they are made in China too at double the price. Just curious if anyone has comments on either. I know you get what you pay for typically applies but I'm assuming both models are coming from China. Let me know your thoughts.



I'm going to tow a 23' Mallard that's coming in at around 6,ooo lbs. GVWR.

First post ever- have a 2007 5. 9 Cummins Mega Cab- 4" lift w/ 35" Cooper STT's.

 

[NIsaacs]

Do a search on this subject in this forum. There was a long running discussion about the need for one, some good reading. I would post a link but I don't know how



Can't help you on the Harbor Freight, but most of their stuff is on the cheap side. Northern Tool is better but more money.



Nick

 

[AMink]

For a lighter, shorter trailer, it's probably not necessary. Try hooking up without a weight distribution unit and see if the truck still sits close to level. As long as you keep 10-15% of the trailer weight on the tongue, you should be fine. That's only 6 or 700 pounds. The long wheelbase of the mega will help keep it steady.



On the other hand, if it sags too much, I'd go with a reputable brand for more money. You have a lot of money tied up between the truck and trailer; hooking them together with pot metal is not worth it, IMHO.



Welcome to TDR!

 

[AH64ID]

I don't think this is an area I would save cash on, but maybe that's just me.

The suspension on these trucks really doesn't need one in the 600-700 lbs of tongue weight area, but it sure does make the ride better. In the 1200-1300 lbs of tongue weight they are really nice, and the truck/trailer track great.

I use a equalizer brand, and highly recommend it over a chain setup.

 

[RustyJC]

For something this critical, I'd look at a Reese Dual Cam.



Rusty

 

[GCroyle]

My trailer came with a used Equal-I-Zer and I'm in my 3rd season, still an amateur, BUT I do follow another trailer only forum and this hitch has recently started burning up the forum with owners positive comments http://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...tion-hitch-4-droprise-2-ball-56-brackets.aspx part not specific, just grabbed one, they also have a video. It almost looks too simple.



Believe me nothing stirs a debate on the other forum like hitches for trailers or trailer tires. And many many of the other forum guru owners use the Hensley style and seems they are keeping an eye on it.

 

[AH64ID]

My trailer came with a used Equal-I-Zer and I'm in my 3rd season, still an amateur, BUT I do follow another trailer only forum and this hitch has recently started burning up the forum with owners positive comments http://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...tion-hitch-4-droprise-2-ball-56-brackets.aspx part not specific, just grabbed one, they also have a video. It almost looks too simple.



Believe me nothing stirs a debate on the other forum like hitches for trailers or trailer tires. And many many of the other forum guru owners use the Hensley style and seems they are keeping an eye on it.

Maybe I am missing something, but how is that going to transfer any weight?

 

[AMink]

Maybe I am missing something, but how is that going to transfer any weight?

Me too. Maybe if you tighten the chains enough it creates a "lift" at the pivot point at the ball.

 

[AH64ID]

If that is how it works I wouldn't touch it. First 90° turn on an off camber road would put a broken chain thru your tailgate!

 

[GCroyle]

I'm not even going to attempt to try to explain it because I have no 1st hand experience, but it was significantly hashed out and continuing over 230 threads http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464/the-andersen-wd-hitch-user-thread-92131.html and about 9200 views. The chains are the source and the tapered ball gets pulled on at the bottom, the trailer hitch trys to push the ball up and forward I think. These guys put the rig on a scale and do ALL the weights, fussy lot they are.

 

[GCroyle]

If that is how it works I wouldn't touch it. First 90° turn on an off camber road would put a broken chain thru your tailgate!

AH64ID,



The OWNERS reports are worth trying to find in the link. Look at the latest reports. Permalink #225 for example.

 

[mwilson]

AH64ID,



The OWNERS reports are worth trying to find in the link. Look at the latest reports. Permalink #225 for example.

After reading several comments, watching the video and some time invested in getting my head wrapped around the idea I think it is quite a rig, simple as can be.



If I still had a tow-behind I would be ordering one right now.



Thumbs up...



Mike.

 

[GCroyle]

Mike,



Weight savings vs. the Hensley and they cost about $3,000. 00 ish not sure.



The thing that I don't care for and oops looks like a hijacked thread, we're off the OP's comments.



My Equal-I-Zer has massive bars and if they flex, wow! But the whole thing uses metal to metal friction to "control" sway. I saw one other hitch that caught my eye because it shows a more active sway control the Centerline by Husky. The bar sockets are trying to cam against belleville springs as you sway, it actively wants to "recenter" as I see it.



One of the big issues according to my novice observations is the proper setup of whatever WD/SC hitch you are using.



For example my 2 Dexter (rubber not leaf spring type) axles want to be run frame level while hitched.

 

[AMink]

Ok, I watched the video and it makes sense. Might be in the future for our trailer! I also found the king pin adapter to a ball interesting.

 

[AH64ID]

You can get plastic "feet" for the equalizer that quiets it down, and doesn't effect control.

It's a great hitch, and much easier to hookup than anything with chains, or at least that I have seen around the campsites.

 

[GCroyle]

Sometimes its fun to watch a hook up attempt, I've put on a show once or twice myself.



Yup, seen the pads but the real of interest wear area for me is the pivoting trunions(?) that has the bar sockets. It wears on the main head. Maybe I'll get a pic this weekend.



And, I don't think you mess with the chains each hook up. By raising the jack you attach the chain plate then lower away and smile.

 

[mwilson]

And, I don't think you mess with the chains each hook up. By raising the jack you attach the chain plate then lower away and smile.

That's my take on it as well, set the chains once at initial installation and that's it until you get a new tow vehicle.



Mike.

 

[Centari86]

Apologies about the extremely late posting, but did you say Curt MFG products were made in china? I thought they were made in USA?

 

[sg5054]

It looks like to me when the the tongue of the trailer moves down the chains would want to be longer. The bushings at the trailer end of the chains compress to provide some additional length as well as to provide the resistance to downward movement. Chain tension looks to be adjusted by the threaded studs passing through those bushings. Anti sway is done by the tongue weight on the hitch. I don't see the weight transfer all that clearly either.
Interesting idea.

 

[AH64ID]

Apologies about the extremely late posting, but did you say Curt MFG products were made in china? I thought they were made in USA?

I have a curt product in the garage with a large made in the USA on the side of it.