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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Welding on a frame

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1996 one ton Dodge diesel 4x4 has a crack in the frame. What is the steel type the frame is made of, or what welding procedure is recommended by Dodge for welding repairs? (what welding electrode, preheat, if any, and maximum interpass temperature should be observed)? Are there any other recommendations from Dodge? I have access to the required equipment and welding skills for the project. I imagine some type of reinforcing plate will be required as well as some weld profiling to minimize notches in the area of the repair, will inspect welds visually and with dye penetrant.
 
Sounds like you have a good handle on the nature of the beast. (welding)



You might want to treat it like a P1 pipe, a little preheat prior to and wrap it up afterwards. 7018 or 8018 would do the job. If you can find out want the material is, it would be easy to figure out. It might not be much more than a good Grade A with a 72,000 tensile. You could do a burnnel hardness test on it if you have access to one.



Send DC an e-mail at there web site. They might tell you.



Dave
 
If you haven't already welded the frame yet, Here are my views. I extended a 1 ton GMC brandXX 24in. about 5yrs ago. I used a wire feed with 70,000 wire & CO2/Argon mix. Without knowing were the crack is & how long it is I can't make any suggestions now. If you would like my ideas on the project, I will try to check back on from time to time and maybe we can get together.

02 3500 HO 6sp CC Pait. Blue, ss side panels AFE air intake, Isspro gauges, PacBrake
 
D/Cs recomendations for frame welding prefer using flux core wire feed NR211 mp (not to be substituted) . 035 wire at 15. 5-16. 5 v. 130-140 amps If you use arc, 70118 is recomended in 1/8 in @ 85-100 amps.

Drill . 125 holes at end of cracks,v-groove crack to insure full penetration of weld. Grind weld smooth than cover with reinforcing plate. Plate should be cut at corners at 45 degrees and verticle welds on frame should be as minimal as possible. Hope this is the info you were looking for.



Bob
 
I think Bob4X4 hit most all of it.



The only other thing you might do before you use the doubler is a little PT (Dye Pen) and weld ends to ensure the drill hole stopped the crack. I've seen cracks run from the heat in the past were drill stops have been applied. The drill hole should be twice the metal T in diameter at the crack ends.



When you apply your doubler plate, make sure you remove the 90 corner off the plate before welding or you might create a stress riser and cause another crack at the 90 when the frame flexes. Don't depend on the weld to eat it off as you go around it. Grind it round before welding.



Dave
 
welding

DHawthorne said:
Sounds like you have a good handle on the nature of the beast. (welding)



You might want to treat it like a P1 pipe, a little preheat prior to and wrap it up afterwards. 7018 or 8018 would do the job. If you can find out want the material is, it would be easy to figure out. It might not be much more than a good Grade A with a 72,000 tensile. You could do a burnnel hardness test on it if you have access to one.



Send DC an e-mail at there web site. They might tell you.



Dave
That sound good, I would use 3/32 7018 A1, Just get the crack v shaped and do a good job. Get a 100% weld. good luck Jim
 
I remember reading about how to fix a cracked frame in the DC service manual. Going from memory, 1st it can't be on the top or bottom of the frame, 2nd it has to be away from any rivets or existing holes (don't remember how far), 3rd drill . 125 holes through the frame at each end of the crack, 4th notch crack and weld, 5th strongly suggests adding reinforcement plates around the welded area. Hope this helps...
 
My service manual says:



Use MIG, TIG or arc welding equipment to repair welded frame components.



Frame components that have been damaged should be inspected for cracks before returning the vehicle to use. If cracks are found in accessible frame components perform the following procedures.



(1) Drill a hole at each end of the crack wtih a 3 mm (0. 125) diameter drill bit.



(2) Using a suitable die grinder with a 3 inch cut off wheel, V-groove the crack to allow 100% weld penetration.



(3) Weld the crack.



(4) If necessary when a side rail is repaired, grind the weld smooth and install a reinforcement channel (Fig. 3) over the repaired area.



If a reinforcement channel is required, the top and bottom flanges should be 0. 250 inches narrower than the side rail flanges. Weld only in the areas indicated (Fig. 3).
 
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