Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Welding on axle tubes

[BigBadDodge]

I will be installing my custom made 4 link and air bag system in the near future and will be welding on the axle tubes, actully I will be cutting off the spring perches and doing the welding in the same area. Any body have any sugestions or good advise ? I know how to weld and will keep the heat down as much as possible its not the process I am worried about. What thickness are the tubes ? were abouts are the seals located ? should I drain the oil from the pumpkin ? I plan on welding the tubes to the pumpkin as well, is that a good idea for a sledpuller ?



Thanks



BBD

 

[Deere Man]

Yeah for sled pulling it is a good idea to weld the tube to the pumpkin. My cousin has an automatic and the tubes broke lose pulling and when torque is applied to it the pumpkin would rotate putting a bind on the drive shaft creating problems. There should be no harm in doing that as long as you alternate welding little one inch beads. I know one person told me in order to do that you needed to drain the oil and fill it with ater to reduce the temperature of the metal. Other than that I dont know what advice to give you.

Dustin Funderburgh

 

[SRadke]

As a good diesel man I'm sure you understand what's about to happen when that oil gets hot and turns into white smoke. Probably be a good idea to try to set up some kind of purge with CO2. It may be no problem at all but I don't like taking chances.



P. S. I welded the ends back in a 500 gallon diesel tank for a guy after they blew out while he was trying to weld a new fitting on the side of it. For some reason he lived but didn't think he wanted to weld on that tank anymore.



-Scott

 

[krs]

Hi,

I want to say that I've enjoyed watching the development of your truck and appreciate the work ou've done in preparing the extensive and descriptive webpages as you go.



As to this welding - you didn't say whether you intend to use gas or electric. With a stick welder I don't think you'd have much trouble wih the oil in the axle if you ground close to each weld and work fast and well. I'd just hit the tubes at the banjo with the stick enough to tack them together. About an inch long weld maybe three places around each one ought to hold it.



But with gas it might be a good idea to drain it at least. I don't think you need water in there but have it open and well ventilated. I don't know how thick the tubes are but with a torch you should be able to tell by how the metal heats. Put the flame on the banjo and work off to the tube and watch close. Personally I don't think that I'd try to gas weld those things. Too slow- too much flame - too close to fuel.

 

[willyslover]

call Dynatrack and ask for the thickness. .



there was a total Dynatrack build up on a 60 a while back in Peterson 4 Wheel and Off Road. . told tube size and thickness I think

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Yea Scott, you need to be here and I would Tig it up for you.



Jim

 

[willyslover]

Jim. . that would be tooo pretty. . his rig is a MANLY truck LOL

 

[jimk]

Originally posted by BigBadDodge

I will be installing my custom made 4 link and air bag system in the near future and will be welding on the axle tubes, actully I will be cutting off the spring perches and doing the welding in the same area. Any body have any sugestions or good advise ? I know how to weld and will keep the heat down as much as possible its not the process I am worried about. What thickness are the tubes ? were abouts are the seals located ? should I drain the oil from the pumpkin ? I plan on welding the tubes to the pumpkin as well, is that a good idea for a sledpuller ?



Thanks



BBD

I have welded axle tubes before, after a nylock nut backed off and egged the end of the threads. My father made a tool to hold the new stub in the center of the axle housing. I used 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap. If you are going to weld on some spring perches I would use 7018 3/32 rod, I would use the 6011 rod for scrap iron and not on the truck. Good luck Jim

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Some of the tubes I have seen on 3/4 and 1-ton trucks look to be between 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick - you'd want to weld short, fast beads, let cool normally, and continue - doing it that way, not a whole lot of problem overheating the lube inside - shucks, use Amsoil - it can take the heat...

 

[BigBadDodge]

Thank guys, I do plan on using the wire feed unit I fabed everthing up with. I will be removing the bed and tires to make things easier, I have the Hy-teck rear cover so I will drop the drain plug let her drain for a while and pull out the fill plug, full level plug and sending unit plugs that should let her vent enough. Roger on the short intermintent welds to keep the heat down and natural cooling between beads, no quenching.



Jim, thanks for the offer maybe I could find a away to get ther TAD



Thanks again guy's



BBD

 

[mullady76]

I did the same thing on my big block regal. My buddy used a MIG and ran the bead a 1/4 of the way around at a time then did the same thing to the other side to allow some time for it to cool.

 

[TurboTweaker]

hey guys,

I'm a welder by trade and i'm gonna go with Jimk on the 6010 root and 7018 fill and cover, as far as the TIG jim its strong and it looks nice and all but the surface area is a issue. and for who ever said gas welding it is nuts. A. heat input to the metal B. Time C. strength D. Penitration.

If anyone could get Al Gades to chime in he is a international VICA champ and a instructor at a local tech college, the man can weld. say Jim fuller if you were in the area around feb 19th you could jump in to the TIG contest at the local tech school.



Back to the issue at hand, I would MIG or arc it. if you arc it use 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap.



Welders do it in all positions!

Andy

 

[TurboTweaker]

Corection: Jim fulmer sorry jim

 

[krs]

"and for who ever said gas welding it is nuts. A. heat input to the metal B. Time C. strength D. Penitration".



Maybe reread the post, eh?

 

[TurboTweaker]

KRS,

I read it right the first time. Just my honest opinion.

 

[JoshPeters]

I agree with Turbo Tweaker on that one. Your nuts to Gas weld on an axle tube. When you heat metal enough to weld you are changing the metalurgy of that object. Depending on the cooling process used at the factory you can make it more brittle, etc. Try heating a spring sometime... . what happens... . it gets weaker and will turn back into normal steel, not spring steel. You want to isolate the heat as much as possible and keep the area around the weld cool. With gas welding you can't get proper penitration on steel that thick anyway. The first time he got axle wrap or wheel hop he'd brake the welds right off!





Josh

 

[y-knot]

I would think it the guy is smart enough to design his own suspension system then he is probably smart enough to pick the right weld process. Also the axle tube thickness is a little less then what many think. One a SRW the Dana 80 has a . 390 wall thickness, and on the DRW it increases to . 560 (notice how much thicker the DRW;s axle tube, one of the reasons it can carry and haul more). I have weld on several axles and it really is not a big deal, just keep the ground lead close to the weld area, and if you have a large section to weld, allow it to cool between passes. The Gas Weld option is completely out of question, it involves way to much heat and will not give the penetration needed. Stick would work fine, though I prefer the MIG welding process.

As soon as the weather warms I will be adding the Rock Ring with top mount and brace to my 3500. It will require welding to the axle tubes, on each side of the carrier, and I will MIG weld it.







Spyder customs has several axle options for our trucks, and many, many fine parts for the toys.

 

[BigBadDodge]

Y-Knot is correct guys, as I stated I know how to weld and choose the proper process, but thanks anyway. I was looking specificly for the thickness of the tube and seal placement as I haven't taken one apart before.



Thanks again,



BBD

 

[jimk]

suggestions

Originally posted by BigBadDodge

Y-Knot is correct guys, as I stated I know how to weld and choose the proper process, but thanks anyway. I was looking specificly for the thickness of the tube and seal placement as I haven't taken one apart before.



Thanks again,



BBD

I reread your post and your are correct. I am a pressure vessel welder and have been one for 17 years. good luck jim

 

[krs]

You never know, especially online... ... .

In fifteen years on the line turning wrenches followed by ten more years running a shop with 22 or more mechanics, bodymen, and painters I've seen men try the damndest things and have often had to gently dissuade them despite their 'expert' insistance. .

Here, just in case BBD MIGHT be thinking of using gas I posted to discourage it, not otherwise as apparently perceived, by saying "I don't think that I'd try to gas weld those things. Too slow- too much flame - too close to fuel. In case he meant to go ahead anyway I included a couple of basic precautions.