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Welding to `05 frame

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Bent Axles & Spring???

2000 3500 Tow Package Wiring

Welding a hitch to `05 frame

:confused: A couple of RV dealer`s told me that they could weld a 5er hitch to my `05 3500. From what I have read that only if we were to drill holes into the frame say for a hitch, that would void the frame warranty. Is this a correct assumption, welding would be all right with the warranty gods?
 
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dont know about the guidelines but that was how i got my truck. I was at the auction and it came across with frame damage real big on the windsheild no one bid on it went and check it out the frame damage was two bolt holes drilled for a hitch, but that was 4 years ago also.
 
totally different frame. My truck frame has holes all over it. There is even a recessed spot on the side of the frame rail to drill holes for the hitch.
 
SMD

my hitch brkts were welded 54000 miles ago on the new frame and pull 11200 lb 5er. My neighbor hotshots with a '03 3500 truck with hitch brkts welded 190000+ miles and he pulls in excess of 26000 lbs. As a old jig builder/welder I would rather weld than bolt on these new frames. Drill or weld its your choice . Just make sure they do it per Dodge Body Builders Guide per TSB 13-001-03. The RV dealer should already know the specs. Mine did... ... ... ... JIM
 
With hitch makers providing bolt on systems that use the existing frame without welding or drilling, why would you want anything else?



Gary
 
Here's my take on welding/drilling. Just because Dodge gives a guideline saying it's okay, doesn't make it a good idea. Let's assume that the builder/rv dealer/welder/installer does it per Dodge guidelines and yet the frame cracks/fails, who is going to stand behind it? Dodge is going to say it was done wrong, installer will say it was done right and it's Dodge's crappy frame. All I know is that you have a busted truck and no one to fix it for ya. It's the mag/moss act all over again, good luck getting Dodge to stand behind it. If the issue can be avoided by not welding/drilling, why invite a potential problem. We have enough potential problems going already.
 
My hitch installer drilled and bolted the frame mounts but only drill through one side of the frame, not all the way through both sides. Then you have to fish the bolt inside the frame to the hole. Not easy!
 
JayWm said:
Here's my take on welding/drilling. Just because Dodge gives a guideline saying it's okay, doesn't make it a good idea. Let's assume that the builder/rv dealer/welder/installer does it per Dodge guidelines and yet the frame cracks/fails, who is going to stand behind it? Dodge is going to say it was done wrong, installer will say it was done right and it's Dodge's crappy frame. All I know is that you have a busted truck and no one to fix it for ya. It's the mag/moss act all over again, good luck getting Dodge to stand behind it. If the issue can be avoided by not welding/drilling, why invite a potential problem. We have enough potential problems going already.



Sad times but this makes legal sense. Thanks to all.
 
welding to frame

Guess I just do things differently. But I would use 1/2" bolts with with rubber around the frame and spacers. This holds it tight and is better I think. Then weld to this. Your not going to brake this setup. If one would like this I could elaberate.
 
JayWm said:
Here's my take on welding/drilling. Just because Dodge gives a guideline saying it's okay, doesn't make it a good idea. Let's assume that the builder/rv dealer/welder/installer does it per Dodge guidelines and yet the frame cracks/fails, who is going to stand behind it? Dodge is going to say it was done wrong, installer will say it was done right and it's Dodge's crappy frame. All I know is that you have a busted truck and no one to fix it for ya. It's the mag/moss act all over again, good luck getting Dodge to stand behind it. If the issue can be avoided by not welding/drilling, why invite a potential problem. We have enough potential problems going already.

don't forget the whole frame is a welded assy from one end to the other. Personally I wouldn'd have a bolt job as nuts can and have worked loose. Here in farm/ranch country most trucks are 4x4 with cattle feeder/beds chassis mounted that are welded not bolted. These trucks flex more than street driven trucks when out in the pastures. The dealer recommends welding for the simple reason that the clamp ons on some of the '03s were chaffing/rubbing the frame tubes, point of contact, to the point that they become loose and possible thinning of the frame at that point. The body manufactor sent a letter to all dealers that they should check customers mount brkts for that problem and weld for a pernament fix.

Clamp or bolt will work but you better check the nuts and clamps on occasion... ... ... . JIM
 
For those doing their own hitches... How many bolts do you use and what size.



I was able to fit 3 Grade 8 1/2" bolts on each side.



This setup will "shear" at just under 108,000 lbs. This gives a little under 6x safety factor. I am wondering if I need to go bigger/more (If I did it again of course I would).



Do the 3rd gens have the "indent" in the frame like 2nd gens have for the hitch?



As seen here:

#ad
 
PullRite !!

smd - Try a different RV dealer! [OR hitch installer!]

As others have already said - you shouldn't have to do either!



Don't know about the "standard" PullRite 5er hitch (for long bed),

but the Superglide for short bed does NOT require any

drilling or welding. Know that for sure - I installed it.

Check "klenger" think he has a Pullrite on his long bed.



I would think other hitch mfgrs have same (no drill, no weld) features too.

JC
 
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