Well, it looks like I'm in the market for an air compressor so what are your thoughts

[Dan_69GTX]

My tractor died and needs surgery to revive it. However it runs (ran) my home made air compressor, plowed my LONG drive, lifted heavy objects, and pounded fence posts... ... So. .



I'll be getting a 2 stage 175psi max compressor. Any ideas on brands to avoid or brands to get??



What has been your experience with the ones you have or had?



Thanks!

Dan

 

[Hohn]

I was looking at the black Sears ones. The two-stage ones seemed to be a great all-around setup. I would get the 240V model if you have that option. I don't remember who makes them for Sears, but I found some in the Grainger catalog that looks suspiciously the same, spec-wise. I think it was a speed-aire. .



Also, I would look for a big tank, with a high pressure rating. If you're not ALWAYS using it for continuous duty stuff, you could really pad your performance that way...



my 0. 02



Hohn

 

[illflem]

I have two low hour Craftsman compressors in my junkyard you can have, they are different from Speedaire.



Don't buy an oilless beltless one, they don't last.

If you think you will be moving the compressor to different locations go for a 110 volt or a 220/110 combo. Can't always find easy place to tap into 220 in some locations.

Speedaire and Ingersol-Rand have been good to me.



Something to avoid that I've seen people do is adding another tank to their air system thinking they'll get more air. They will until the compressor pump overheats and dies. The pumps and motors are matched to the tank, bigger tank causes them to run too long.

 

[me4osu]

Get either a Quincy or Ingersoll-Rand, cast iron cylinders with replaceable valves. Might be pricey, but they're worth it.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Has anyone heard anything about Champion compressors? Doing some research on them, they seem to be a bit better built than the ingersol rands (use roller bearings instead of ball bearings) and I can get them cheaper than the IR's.



I'm definitely looking into a 240v model. For my air needs it will have to be a minimum of 5hp, preferably 7. 5hp. I don't have 3-phase in the garage so that limits me to the 7. 5 which draws 33 amps. I'm not sure what CFM my homemade compressor puts out - it is made out of a Honda 1800CC motor - with extensive modifications to the head/intake system. It is/was powered by the PTO of the tractor. When I get the tractor running again, I'll still use that for a "portable", but have been wanting to get a stationary one since it is a hassle to have to start the tractor when it is cold/raining/etc and the tractor breaking is the catalyst for this.



Currently I have about 310 gallons of air storage - which is great for the tractor since I can do a lot before I have to start it, unless I'm sandblasting or beadblasting something. Depending on what compressor I end up with I will have to reduce it some just as illflem stated.



Thanks!

Keep the input coming!

 

[me4osu]

A company I used to work for had a division that sold little Champion air compressors. They are very good quality. I didn't know what you were looking for, that's why I recommended the I-R. I bought a Quincy and haven't had a problem in 8 years.



We always use the Quincy 325 to provide start air for some of our gas compressors. Takes 3 to 5 minutes to re-charge a 200 gal receiver tank. We run them with 16 hp Kholers.



If you have a high volume demand (and some money), I would recommend a rotary compressor. Atlas Copco makes one of the best.

 

[Philip]

Stay away from anything you find in the farm type stores. The ones from Sears are another type to stay away from.



I would look at IngerSol-Rand or Champion models.



I have a Ingersol_Rand T30 5hp 2 stage model. It is around 10 years old now. It is quite for a compressor. You can work with it in the same room. Do not try this is you get a camble hausefield or anything from a farm store.



Pay the extra and get a name brand. They will last much longer. They will be quiter in operation. You will be able to get parts for it to. Try getting parts from Sears or a farm store compressor. You can. But you better be ready to wait. They would rather you get mad and buy a new one. Than to get you parts fast.

 

[Todd G]

I like the IR brand also. This one's in the Northern Tool catalog and it's got free shipping



Compressor

 

[Dan_69GTX]

me4osu - Thanks for the input on the Champion compressors. Yes, I thought about the rotory, but the price doubled (so does air volume) but at least the "cheaper rotories" don't have the PSI I'd like. My home built compressor I have limited to 125PSI, but the coats 40-40sa tire changer likes 175 - meaning there are some tires I have to beat on to get the bead to break loose.



Currently I still have a 3hp craftsman that I bought in 86. It still works, but is really worn. I used that thing for a long time before I built my own - and before I got some of this other equipment. I can't knock it for being worn - considering how much abuse I put it through.



Philip - do you know if your IR compressor is a 2340L5 or the 2475N5?



Todd - thanks! If I get the IR I'm leaning toward that one. The Champion equivelent I can get for $1540 and the guy will deliver it and help me set it where I want. He also services all makes of compressors.



Unless I need a larger compressor (yea right) or a different style I hope this to be the last compressor I ever buy - so yes, I'm looking for the best quality possible!



Any other thoughts - please post them!



Thanks

 

[Philip]

I will have to look and see which one it is. Off the top of my head. I can't remember. I do know it is the low rpm model if that is what you want to know. It is rated at 17cfm.



I have a bead blast cabinet. It can hold a steady 120 psi on a long blast job.



On that size compressor go with the magnetic contactors. That way you can have overload protection for the motor.





I have a friend that used a Champion compressor for almost 20 years in his body shop. That is why I would suggest them. He has changed the oil maybe 4 times so far. It still runs good and is not throwing oil into the system. Can't get much better than that.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Phillip - thanks!



Yes, that is what I wanted to know. If it is the low RPM model and 17CFM, it is the 2475N5 - the good 5HP one - comes with mag starter and a better 5hp motor. They have the 2340L5, which a friend has, but it is a cheaper 2 stage model - great if you don't use it a lot, like I know I will - especially in the summer when I do most of my work - sandblasting, beadblasting, painting.



I have a serious hobby if auto repair/restore, so there are times I don't use the compressor much, and times it will be used many hours straight.



Regarding your blast cabinet - what brand is it? I have a TIP or scatblast unit. They have 3sizes of nozzles - I use the largest - which do you use?



I'm asking this cause I've never used a "normal" compressor with my cabinet - I want to make sure I don't run out of air.



Thanks!

Dan

 

[Philip]

I have a snap on brand (YA435 model number). It is the one with the front open door. It is 40" X24"X24". I hate a end load blast cabinet. At the time I bought this one about 15 years ago. It was the only one I could find at the time with a front door style of cabinet.



I use the medium size tip on mine. I blast a 90 PSI all the time. I have ran up to 45 minutes and not ran out of air. My back gives out first. LOL





Get the low rpm compressor. If it will be in the shop where you working. You will like it better than the higher rpm ones.

 

[Philip]

One thing to check on before you buy and have it shiped. Some commerical carriers charge to deliver to a house address. Around my area it is a $75. charge. So check on this when you order. If the carrier they are using charges. Tell them you will pick up at the closest terminal.

 

[J.R. Adkins]

Originally posted by Philip

Get the low rpm compressor. If it will be in the shop where you working. You will like it better than the higher rpm ones.

Dan,



I have been in Philip's shop with the compressor running and it is very quiet. We were removing the top of a nv4500 for inspection and I just could not get over how quiet the compressor was!





J. R.

 

[Champane Flight]

Always

I have a home made little 1 3/4 horse with a 25 gallon tank. I am going to upgrade when I get my new shop. The one thing I always look at is the CFM of the compressor/tank setup. Remember to always get a compressor /tank setup that will run everything you use without running all the time or losing pressure. I will be looking for something that will put out at least 14 CFM or better.

 

[Philip]

Other items to look at Champane Flight



RPM of the compressor. Higher RPM's= shorter life and more noise



Do not get one with reed valves. Higher upkeep. More breakage of other parts pulling heads to replace intake reed. Been there done that. If you do not see removable caps to access the valves. Turn and run away.



Much above 17 CFM air flow. Then you will only get three phase power models. 7. 5 is the highest ones for single voltage. These 7. 5hp models are made by some of the cheaper brands. This are noisey. If you have an extra room to put the compressor in then you might think of one. If it is going into a working shop. Look at other name brands. The other name brands are Ingersol-Rand, Gradener-Denver, Joy , SulAir. I am not sure what the other ones listed are doing with piston compressors anymore. It has been a while sence I have looked.



I worked for almost 5 years with my Ingersol in my shop. I could stand and talk to someone with it running. Now it is located in a back room I added onto my garage. But it is setting in front of a old single pane window that doesn't stop any sound at all. Refer to J. R. 's post.

 

[Rotty]

Get the biggest cfm you can afford. generally 5HP =~ 16cfm @135psi

Maker sure it has a cast iron compressor, Belt drive. Direct drives are noisey and don't last long. The slower the compressor is quieter and will last longer.

Not all 5HP single phase motors are the same. The cheap NEMA56 frames are the lowest cost but last the least. The bigger NEMA 145 frame? costs more but will last a life time. I am in the process of building my own compressor when I got a 60 gallon upright tank for free. I have the motor but I am still deciding on which cast iron compressor.

If you have a 16 cfm compressor, you will not need more storage capacity, because your compressor will supply the needed air.

Besides, what tools are you using the need more than 16cfm???

Good luck...

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Rotty - Thanks for the info. Can you explain a little more about the differences in the electric motors? It seems that everyone rates their motor differently - as in a 5 HP isn't always the same - depending if they rate peak or running. What are the differences for the different frames, etc.



Right now I'm leaning toward the 7. 5 HP Champion compressor - 22. 9 CFM at 175 PSI.



I want more than 15-16CFM due to running a bead blast cabinet (specs say 20-25 CFM @ 90 PSI) and a pressure sand blaster (can't find spec sheet that came with it but a similar one is 15CFM @ 90 PSI).



Hopefully the 7. 5 HP will work well and not have to run constantly when I'm using either of those pieces of equipment. It is the largest motor I can get w/o going 3-phase.



Thanks!

Dan

 

[illflem]

My compressor is installed in a styrofoam insulated cabinet with a cooling fan rigged to come on with the compressor, very quiet. Furnace filter over the air intake keeps dust out. Big plus is the cabinet top can double as a shelf utilizing what would normally be wasted space.

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Check out Grizzly. They are introducing a 240v belt driven castiron compressor for arround 2 bills. Got mine ordered.