2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission wet drivers floor

[rgreen]

Ok, I had to pull the carpet edging to follow some wire and... I've suspected before but it is not just wet, it is flooded under there. The insulation can litterally be wrung out. I thought that the carpet on top had all dryed out.

I've checked the posts on this subject. The wetness does not seem to be coming from above since it is much wetter below and seems to always be.

From reading I suspect maybe the condensor drain?? but can anyone give me a hint as to where to find it?? How to get at it. Checked the rear above cab lights. Seal there seems good and no sign of leaking. ( anyway most peaks from there are reported to end up on the passenger side, right?

Any leads would be welcome. I would like to aviod pulling all the carpet out to locate the leaks. Can't even tell at this point if it is only in the rain or not. Was certainly wet through the winter last now that I think about it. A lump of ice formed under the carpet.



Ron Green

1999 4x :{

 

[JerryWallace]

Ron



Have you ever seen any signs of water in your door pocket that runs the length of the door panel just below your speaker?



About a year ago I had to have my driver's door replaced. Since then I have been plagued with a leak I could never find. All of my weather seals around the door frame never showed signs of leaking. But any rain at all would soak the driver's side carpet. More so if the truck was just sitting vs. driving down the road. Well I finally took off the door panel and what I saw was water droplets on the inside of the clear moisture barrier below the speaker. I took the speaker out and discovered that it was in upside down. There is a plastic water shield that is mounted to the top of the speaker. The water will run down your side window past the window's felt pad and track and then drip on top of the speaker which the plastic water shed will direct the water away from the speaker. If that plastic water shed is on the bottom of the speaker it will fill up, act like a funnel and saturate the bottom of the speaker cone and then overflow. The water dumps from the speaker to the inside of the moisture barrier, runs down between the door and the door panel to the inside edge of your door seal. You'll never see a drip, just all of a sudden your carpet is saturated.





jerry

 

[JNailor]

I had the same type of leak, but mine was because the plastic sheet behind the door panel came unglued from the door. If it's not sealed to the sheet metal good, water will get between the plastic and the metal and leak out from the bottom of the door panel into the carpet edge.

It took me months to find the leak. One rainy day I saw one drop between the door gasket and the door trim panel. When I removed the panel it was obvious what had happened.

The seal has to be on the edge of the access hole into the door cavity, not at the bottom of the door.

 

[rgreen]

Thanks, That information makes alot of sence. I remember now that when I had the speaker changed, about a year ago, it was wet. The vapor barrier was not in great shape and a do not think it was ever fixed. I will take off the door panel this weekend and see if i can figure how to replace the plastic. I've been lucky the past few days ,with warm weather the padding is slowely drying out. Will probable lightly sand and repaint the affected floor areas that are starting to show bubbles.

 

[Chipstien]

My guess, third brake light.

 

[rgreen]

I checked the third brake light and there is no sign of water there. If I wanted to be sure how would you recommend sealing it. Just replace the factory gasket with a new one??

 

[Andy Redmond]

Yes the factory replacement gasket is the best bet, less than $15.



Good suggestion on the moisture barrier and speaker.



The EVAPORATOR drain on the blower box exits the firewall below the accumalator/receiver dryer canister. (Passenger side behind the airbox and next to the PCM). The drain is a plastic tube that protrudes about 3/4" from the firewall. I had this prob on my 95 and put an ext. tube on the drain and routed it down where it dumps on a the upper trailing arm.



If the heater core were bad this could also be the source of your dampness. Usually you'll notice the telltale coolant smell in the carpet or when you get the first whif after selecting the fan/blower switch.



Good luck

Andy

 

[rgreen]

If the evaporator drain exits on the passenger side and my floor is wet on the drivers side can I sagely say that is not the problem? Heater core problem would also mean that radiator would need constant topping up?? That has not been a problem. No coolant smell, more like a dead rat smell but only if you get your nose right close. Still good weather here. Starting to make headway on drying out. I have a club on it, kill switch and tracking sys. but I am still uneasy leaving it in the parking lot here with the windows down.

Thanks for the help. Will see if the dealer here has a gasket.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Yes, but I've seen the matting wick water over to the ds as well. If's its dry on the pass. side. My bet is on the door probs. discussed or the cmbl (3rd brake light) gasket. .



Remove the step shields and block up the carpet with some rigid structural styrofoam at night in your garage and set up a floor fan to blow into the cavity. If you have a barn heater to put behind the fan, it will move the arid dry heated air inside the cab under the carpet to speed the drying. You can likely rent a "squirell cage" blower at a rental store if you need a fan, some of them have a heat strip in them. Then hit the matting with an anti-microbal treatment or some lysol to prevent/kill the mildew.



Good luck and happy drying.



Andy

 

[rgreen]

No garage, but will pick up a car warmer to use if not dry by weekend. Have been leaving the carpet propped up. Ordered gasket for the light. Of course the local dealer had none in stock. This is the week of the Fredericton Jazz festival so I will ignore the problem for a day or two. Untill Saturday.

 

[rgreen]

The rug is pretty dried out and I can peel it back enough to touch up the floor. Took the side panel off the door and fixed up the vapor barrier there. ( duct tape. ) And while in was rainiing like a banshee we went for a ride. Without the door panel there was an obvoius flow of water from the driver door seal. Closer examination showed a seam parted from the top for about 4 inches. I ordered a new door seal today. Any tricks to putting it in. It doesn't seem to be glued or anything but just pressed into place. Sure hope this cures the problem.

Ron

 

[danadj2]

I have been plagued with wet carpet for some time. It seems I solved the problem after pulling up the carpet and letting it dry for a few days. I live in FL and you probably have heard about some of the rain we've been getting and are currently getting as I type this. After putting a new gasket on the cab light and not stopping the water I found that the back glass seal was catching water and channeling it into the driver side post at a steady stream. I used common silicone calk(clear) and held the lip of the seal back enough to get the tip of the tube between it and the cab and filled the entire top side of the seal. Afterward I wiped off any excess that came out past the lip and my problem with water is now solved.

By the way, someone at a glass shop says that back glass cost $1300. 00 and that it's glued in and almost impossible get out without breaking it.

 

[rgreen]

Was this the rear window of the cab or the side window of the extended cab that you had problems with?? I think I have it all dryed out now but have not checked to see if I still have the leak.



ROn

 

[danadj2]

This was the back glass of a conventional cab p/u with no slide. This glass is glued in with urethane adhesive and it has to be literally cut or sawed out since the urethane adhesive must dry hard and fast. My particular truck being a 94 must have over time developed some cracks in this adhesive and the rubber seal acted like a trough or funnel and was pouring in when it rained.

 

[jeff95]

I have had my rear glass replaced twice. It was about $300 installed. This is for a sliding rear window. I took it back four times to get them to seal it properly.

Jeff

 

[rgreen]

I'm still stymied. I dryied it out well over the weekend. We've had heavy dew but no rain since and the underlay feels damp when I slide my hand under. Seems to be drivers side running along the tranmission hump but hard to say. Doesn't smell of anything except wet underlay. Where the heck is the water coming from. ??? Still wet under the drivers seat as well. I will either take it to a window shop to check or... Just about out of ideas. The condensation pan drain comes out n the passenger side. Sticks out of the firewall about 1". Black rubber tube aprox 1/4" inside dia? Probed the inside. My prob went in about a pencil length and then hit something solid. Is that normal?? Do I have the right hose ?

Ron

 

[surfbeetle]

I just got in the truck and my drivers side seat belt was wet, looked up and noticed that my headliner is wet in the left rear corner. A few years back I had pulled the back window out and siliconed the seal all the way around and it stopped. It still looks like it is sealed on the outside. On the rear corner of the cab is that black strip where the side and roof come together, is this something that can leak? Also, can the rear window rubber be replaced without changing the glass? Its a 95 reg cab with the factory sliding rear window.