What 2500 to get?

[Lynx0849]

Hi there. New to the forum. Lots of great info. I joined to start learning about 2500/3500 Cummins trucks.

I have an 05 1500 Laramie qc sb hemi with 161k miles on it. It is my daily driver as well as work truck. I just got back from Daytona bike week having hauled a 14' v-nose with 2 baggers the 1400 miles each way. When I load up the trailer for work it weighs in at about 7k lbs. In a few years I plan to get a 3500 to haul a 17k lbs 5ver toy hauler.

I am thinking of finding a used 2500 ctd in the meantime and was wondering if there were:
- better years to look at or avoid
- options desired or to avoid
- any other words of wisdom

I don't do my own service and likely won't do any serious drivetrain mods.
I likely will look for a Laramie trim with a qc or cc in a sb.

Thanks in advance.

 

[jhenderson]

I don't know how much you're looking to spend but Id look for something 15 and up. The def equipped trucks seem to have fewer emission system related problems and by the 15 modle year the bugs were mostly worked out of the def system.*

 

[Newsa]

Any 2013 -2016 is recommended. Less EGR, less fuel dilution of crankcase oil, no oxygen sensor to go bad.

These years are more efficient and more powerful.

 

[SnoKing]

The 2500 did not get the new frame until the 2014 model year and DEF I believe did show up in both the 2500 and 3500 in 2013 model year and was NOT tied to the frame upgrade. SNOKING

 

[Deleted member 995608]

First off, welcome to the forum.*

Personally, if I were considering an adding a heavy toy to tow in the future, I'd pull the trigger on a 3500. So many people buy a 3/4 tom and a short time later, wished they had bought a 1 ton. Vehicles only depreciate, so you would be money ahead if you buy once.*

If I didn't live in a SMOG inspected area, I'd be driving a 2010-2012 Ram with all the emission components deleted. But I do, so I'm sporting a DEF truck and I love it.*

 

[Lynx0849]

First off, welcome to the forum.*

Personally, if I were considering an adding a heavy toy to tow in the future, I'd pull the trigger on a 3500. So many people buy a 3/4 tom and a short time later, wished they had bought a 1 ton. Vehicles only depreciate, so you would be money ahead if you buy once.*

If I didn't live in a SMOG inspected area, I'd be driving a 2010-2012 Ram with all the emission components deleted. But I do, so I'm sporting a DEF truck and I love it.*

Thanks

I would love a new 3500 but I think it needs to wait on selling the house in a few years. I can't spring for that coin right now. My 1500 has been a real trouper for 12 years and is happy with the 7k load for short trips and did well (though 8mpg) down to Daytona and back. My16' flatbed trailer with my bobcat on it is a bit over what it should pull so I would feel better with a bigger truck. Maybe a used 3500 to get me by would be better but I gotta be able to pay for it.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Nothing wrong with used. I truly wanted a year or two old truck, but couldn't locate what I wanted, so we bought new.*

 

[Lynx0849]

So, you guys have convinced me to skip the 2500 and go directly to a 3500 from my old faithful hemi 1500.

Some questions come to mind...
I got a limited budget for this intermediate truck so a new one is out of the question for now so what years (if any) should I avoid?
The dead pedal bothers me. When did thus show up?
I see some used "deleted" trucks. I think I know what this means but what should I be watching out for?
Since I have not owned a diesel street vehicle before (I have a Kubota tractor and a bobcat with a Kubota motor), do making changes to the exhaust effect my vehicle inspections here in Mass?

Sheesh, the more I learn, the more questions I get (I guess I will get into 5th wheel hitch questions one of these days...).

Thanks

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Check out the buyer guides!! They helped me out a LOT when looking for the answers you are! https://www.turbodieselregister.com/content/518-buyers-guides

 

[Deleted member 995608]

So, you guys have convinced me to skip the 2500 and go directly to a 3500 from my old faithful hemi 1500. Good Choice

Some questions come to mind...
I got a limited budget for this intermediate truck so a new one is out of the question for now so what years (if any) should I avoid?
If you're going to delete or buy a deleted truck, any Dodge/Ram from 07.5 + will do. I personally like the 2010+ because of the body style change and roomier back seatThe dead pedal bothers me. When did thus show up? Dead pedal is similar to the death wobble woes. Some say they have it, other have zero issues. My 16 doesn't snap the power to the ground like my old 04.5, but it will out pull that old dog hands down. My truck is much, much better with a Throttle Sensitive Booster from BD Diesel; a cheap investment that makes my truck fell completely different to drive*I see some used "deleted" trucks. I think I know what this means but what should I be watching out for?
Since I have not owned a diesel street vehicle before (I have a Kubota tractor and a bobcat with a Kubota motor), do making changes to the exhaust effect my vehicle inspections here in Mass?

Sheesh, the more I learn, the more questions I get (I guess I will get into 5th wheel hitch questions one of these days...).

Thanks

Good Luck! You made the right choice with a 3500

 

[Wayne M.]

Hey welcome! You cant go wrong with a single wheel 3500 with all the tolls here in the NE. You may see some lease turn ins start popping up, just start pounding the ground. AutoTrader.com hasn't let me down for me or helping someone else search. Definitely stick with something that hasn't been modded or towed too hard. IMHO buy certified from a Ram dealer with a plan. Keep it stock. Exhaust mods from the DPF back should be fair game. Good luck!

 

[Newsa]

The differences between the 2500 and 3500 srw are not that great. Stronger front springs and steering knuckles moved farther out to handle larger loads in the 3500. An extra leaf on the rear springs in the 3500. I think the 2500 has a nicer ride than the 3500. But both 2500 & 3500 ride well.
The 3500 has the aisin option. If buying used, you will obviously be at the mercy of what is on the market. If it's an auto, test drive it to see if it has any pedal lag when stomping on the accelerator, lay-off, then stomp again.

 

[kthaxton]

and steering knuckles moved farther out to handle larger loads in the 3500.

The hub has a spacer....it's not a different knuckle.... and its only purpose is to allow the use of same wheel in all six locations on a DRW.

 

[Newsa]

The hub has a spacer....it's not a different knuckle.... and its only purpose is to allow the use of same wheel in all six locations on a DRW.

It might be that I misread this review then.

http://www.allpar.com/trucks/ram/2013-heavy-duty-pickups.html

 

[Lynx0849]

I noticed that the SB mega cab has a 150 lb greater payload than the CC? Is that due to the wheelbase increase? I would have expected the opposite since the MC must weigh more.

 

[Lynx0849]

I was wondering about why a DRW has a bigger tow capacity than a SRW? The extra tires don't seem to add a lot of load capacity (not double), likely axel capacity?

Is it for Breaking?

Tourque causing Spinning the rims in the tire?

 

[delawarectd]

I Just picked up a 2016 2500 SB Laramie for 44,000.00. If you know anybody with a dealer license you can get one from the Adesa auction houses. Some of them are a little beat up but mine is like brand new with only 5000 miles on it. I got 10,000.00 back from VW for selling my TDI Passat back to them. So financing 34,000.00 for basically a brand new Cummins was definitely doable for me. *

 

[kthaxton]

I was wondering about why a DRW has a bigger tow capacity than a SRW? The extra tires don't seem to add a lot of load capacity (not double), likely axel capacity?

Is it for Breaking?

Tourque causing Spinning the rims in the tire?

At least one reason is that once you get past a certain trailer weight (that I'm forgetting.... is it 10,000 lbs?), the only safe way to do that is with a 5th wheel/GN hitch. This of course means more weight on the pin than a bumper pull will ever have as tongue weight. You need increased payload capacity to handle the pin weight of a trailer that large. A DRW can obviously handle more payload weight.