Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What all do I need?

[Sandifer]

Bought the kdp tab kit from TST and trying to get an idea of everything I need when fixing it. The truck is fixing to turn 200k miles so I figured I would also change the waterpump,upper and lower radiator hoses,serpentine belt. I bought the gasket for the timing cover. new valve cover gaskets and bolt gommets. What else do I need?

 

[nfox]

Parts list

I would also suggest a front crankshaft seal to go in the timing cover. Oo.

 

[Sandifer]

I think it comes in the kit from TST.

 

[Jschafer]

You may already know this but the rad overflow and windshield solvent tank just lift straight up but you have to use a screw driver or chisel to pry the center of the tank off of its lock(between the back of the tank and the shroud). Thread-loc the bolt for the tab and keep the old belt for a spare. I did mine last week it took about 5 hrs

 

[Sandifer]

Thanks jshcafer. Think I should change the coolant thermstat?

 

[Jschafer]

From what I have read nobody cares for the newer stats. Mine is the original with 306k, I have thought about changing it but you know "if it ain't broke... ... . "

 

[Dave M]

Make sure while you have the timing cover open to remove, clean with brake cleaner and loctite every bolt you can get to. That includes 4 oil pump bolts, the 3 hidden timing case bolts you can see between the cam gear holes, the 2 cam retainer bolts, the case bolt to right of the oil pump gears and the hidden case bolt at bottom right of cam next to vacuum pump gear (all directions are you facing the front of engine). Need a 10 mm bent wrench to get the hidden case bolt. Need to rotate the engine to get bolts behind the cam gear... I used a ratchet on the damper bolts. Tightening the damper bolts was another real PITA.



I'll try to give you a link to 2 threads that I did that have descriptions and photos here:



1. http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115252



2. http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115673



These bolts can cause as much if not more damage than the dowel pin falling out. I used blue loctite. There isn't enough loctite in the TST kit do do all the extra bolts (Tst used red loctite but I got extra blue loctite).



Also, TST has updated their kit. The TST kit I got a few months ago had great directions with pics on how to install the front cover seal (which can be a real PITA). I know it doesn't seem right but install the seal from the rear of the cover. The clear plastic install piece also is inserted with big end into front of cover... that also seemed wrong. You'll see what I mean when you do it... just follow the directions on the extra sheet that describes the install of the front seal. The extra grey or black seal is a dust seal that goes on after the front cover with seal is installed... it's not necessary though.



The TST sheet said the front seal installation directions have been changed by Dodge from the original directions in the truck manual to these newer ones. If I can help on that I have the directions if you didn't get it with the kit... it's a seperate page covering just the front seal installation.



Another trick that helped me was put the front seal in freezer while you put the front cover in the wife's oven at about 200 F for 30 min to 1 hour. It might take 3 cycles to get it to go in... don't ask me how I know. I got strange looks from my wife though.



Good luck,



Dave

 

[crabman]

Sandifer,

Jschafer gave you some GOOD advice on the removing the rad. overflow tank. That is the worse part of the job.

The bolts holding the timing cover in place are different lengths. So be sure that you know which ones go where.

Installing the C/S seal is also alot of fun, try using a drill press to press it into place. [Wish I had known that when I done mine. :{]

Just take your time and have some patience.

crabman

 

[Dave M]

To make sure the front cover bolts are installed in the correct location, I took a cardboard box, flipped it with one side of the box facing up and made a sketch of the outline of the front cover and a mark for each bolt, using a black marker. Then, as I removed each bolt, I poked it into a hole in cardboard where each bolt hole was marked on the outline. Had no problem getting all the bolts in the right hole later and the cardboard retained all the bolts so I didn't loose any.



Kinda simple idea but so am I. Hope that helps.



Dave

 

[Joe G.]

You can't get the cover screws mixed up if you tried. The long ones are too long to tighten up in the short holes. The short ones won't reach the threads in the long holes. The only ones to keep track of are the ones that fasten the sensor for the tach.

 

[Dave M]

You can't get the cover screws mixed up if you tried.

Learn something new everyday . Thanks Joe. Next time ... I hope there's not a next time :-laf . . it will save me time.